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    One of my washing machine shutoff valves is leaking. I would normally fix or repair this myself, but the valves are "encased" in a washing machine hookup box and I don't know how to replace the valve with the box in place and I don't see any way to remove the box. There is no copper pipe above the holes in the box as the valve sits at the very bottom of the box.

    Any advise would be helpful

    Thanks

    Thanks to all who responded. Attached is a rather poor picture of the washing machine shutoff valves. I am quite certain the leak (in the left valve) is actually in the brass casting itself; hence repairs such as replacing a washer, e.g. are not going to do the job. The problem I mentioned is that with the box enclosure surrounding the shutoff valve, I cannot see or determine how to remove the valve and I am learn of just putting a wrench to something I cannot see in it entirety. Again, any help is appreciated.

    I tried tightening the packing nut (thanks for the directions) but this did not help. I can visibly see and also feel where the slow drip is coming from - it comes out at the back almost at the bottom of the valve and, as far as I can tell, that is solid brass, nothing to tighten at that location. That is why I suspect the brass casting itself is leaking. I do not feel any moisture around the two nuts. This is why I suspect the entire valve must be replaced rather than repaired. I am sure that I could be wrong about this but am not really sure what my alternatives would be.

    See attached picture for the leak location

    Thanks
    Howard

    I probably should have stated this initially,but the leak occurs even with the valve in the closed position. So even when I remove the hose, there is a leak at the back of the brass casing. I had put some super glue there and it had helped for a time, but not any longer.

    Given all of this, what is the procedure for replacing the entire valve? Do I need to literally tear out the box to get to the valve or can the valve be removed (I don't see how because I suspect the valve is "sweated" onto copper) without damaging the box? If the box does need to be torn out, are there after market replacement boxes that can be use without messing with sheetrock?

    Thanks again for all the comments and ideas
    Howard

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    11 Answers
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,912, Reputation: 897
    Home Improvement & Construction Expert
     
    #2

    May 26, 2009, 04:50 PM

    Just exactly where is this valve leaking?
    Helpful
    Milo Dolezal's Avatar
    Milo Dolezal Posts: 6,940, Reputation: 486
    Plumbing Expert
     
    #3

    May 26, 2009, 04:58 PM



    These valves are used very seldom, so it may be a matter of giving it 1/4 turn on packing nut.. Maybe it can be fixed. Do you have 2 dedicated valves or 1 handle that operates both h/c ? Can you post a photo ? Thanks !
    Helpful
    afaroo's Avatar
    afaroo Posts: 3,932, Reputation: 245
    Ultra Member
     
    #4

    May 26, 2009, 06:02 PM

    Can you post a picture of your Wash Machine Outlet Box, Thanks.

    John
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    Milo Dolezal's Avatar
    Milo Dolezal Posts: 6,940, Reputation: 486
    Plumbing Expert
     
    #5

    May 26, 2009, 11:58 PM



    Usually, it is the Packing Nut that leaks. See if you can take channel locks and give it 1/4 turn. Packing Nut is right bellow the handle.

    Use two channel locks to counter the turning pressure. Other wise you may turn whole thing especially if it is PEX plumbing.
    Helpful
    afaroo's Avatar
    afaroo Posts: 3,932, Reputation: 245
    Ultra Member
     
    #6

    May 27, 2009, 09:30 AM

    Hello Howard,
    You don't have to replace the S/O valve, Milo gave good advise normally it leaks from the packing nut try to tighten it 1/4 of a turn if that would not help, shut off water to the house, loosen the big nut remove the whole stem get a new shut off valve remove the stem assembly and install it on your existing shut off valve, the washer shut off valves are cheap,
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    afaroo's Avatar
    afaroo Posts: 3,932, Reputation: 245
    Ultra Member
     
    #7

    May 27, 2009, 10:24 AM

    One other thing I may be wrong but it worth to give a try, Close the shut off valve remove the hose check the black or red gasket for damage replace if damaged install the hose and see if it is fixed, unless some one else has any other idea beside replacing the shut off valve, Good Luck.

    John
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    afaroo's Avatar
    afaroo Posts: 3,932, Reputation: 245
    Ultra Member
     
    #8

    May 27, 2009, 12:07 PM

    I am sorry to give the bad news that The only way I know to do this is to remove a larger section of wallboard and create a good sized access hole.

    Most of the area that needs to be accessed is below the outlet box so it should be hidden by the washer once the replacement is completed.

    I agree that you do need beer to successfully complete a drywall repair... just to keep the dust down if nothing else.

    Go to the home depot and get a new box that you like and works for you, also you can use te sharkbite fittings instead of sweating the fittings, see the images below, let us know if you need any more help, good lucj.

    John
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    creahands's Avatar
    creahands Posts: 2,832, Reputation: 195
    Ultra Member
     
    #9

    May 27, 2009, 12:24 PM

    The sheetrock mounts over straps that mount on studs on both sides. U will not be able to replace box without opening wall. Also water and waste line are hooked into it.

    Remove s/r below box from stud to stud and low enough to get in to work. About 8''.

    Good luck

    Chuck
    Helpful (1)
    afaroo's Avatar
    afaroo Posts: 3,932, Reputation: 245
    Ultra Member
     
    #10

    Sep 12, 2010, 05:01 PM

    Hello Creahanda,

    You are responding to an old post, Thanks.

    John
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    creahands's Avatar
    creahands Posts: 2,832, Reputation: 195
    Ultra Member
     
    #11

    Sep 13, 2010, 06:06 AM

    Thanks John

    The new layout is driving me crazy. Some times can't get into old one. Usually don't answer questions that have answers.

    Chuck
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    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,303, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #12

    Sep 13, 2010, 07:18 AM



    John,
    creahands post was dated 5/27/09 while you chimed in at 9/12/10.
    It would seem to me that you're the one answering a dead thread. If you look on down the line you'll see where I gave Wildrhang her own thread, (under the same title) when she piggybacked on this thread just like you've done.
    Cheers, Tom
    Helpful

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