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    mkct's Avatar
    mkct Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jan 13, 2008, 02:25 PM
    Pipe noise following toilet flush
    Serious noise and vibration coming from pipes following toilet flush. I know it's air in the pipes, how do I get air out and stop the noise?
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,782, Reputation: 1210
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    #2

    Jan 13, 2008, 02:52 PM
    Hmmmm... does not sound like air in the lines to me MKCT... is this a new sound that recently developed? Have you had any work done on the plumbing recently.. When I hear of noises after the toilet is flushed I immediately figure water hammer or loose pipes somewhere. I mean, if someone worked on a pipe in basement... loosened a hanger or piped something that hits another pipe... can cause all kinds of racket.

    If this is a new sound, evaluate the area the work was done in... shake the pipes around, etc. to see what you find. Further, your toilet fill valve may be defective...easy to change out and is probably the first thing to do if this is a new sound and no work has been done lately.

    If it an old sound then you may have loose pipes in the wall (unfortunately would need to open wall to secure pipe and stop the noise)... if it is a water hammer issue, well that is a little harder to pinpoint and fix... sometimes installing a water hammer arrestor on the cold water line is sufficient to reduce the noise.. sometimes it is not...

    Please get back to me with more info... especially if it is new sound... can talk you through changing of the fill valve if you are unfamiliar with installing new valve. Thank you.
    dgalati's Avatar
    dgalati Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Jul 26, 2008, 10:12 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by massplumber2008
    Hmmmm...does not sound like air in the lines to me MKCT...is this a new sound that recently developed?? Have you had any work done on the plumbing recently...? When I hear of noises after the toilet is flushed I immediately figure water hammer or loose pipes somewhere. I mean, if someone worked on a pipe in basement...loosened a hanger or piped something that hits another pipe...can cause all kinds of racket.

    If this is a new sound, evaluate the area the work was done in.....shake the pipes around, etc., to see what you find. Further, your toilet fill valve may be defective...easy to change out and is probably the first thing to do if this is a new sound and no work has been done lately.

    If it an old sound then you may have loose pipes in the wall (unfortunately would need to open wall to secure pipe and stop the noise)...if it is a water hammer issue, well that is a little harder to pinpoint and fix...sometimes installing a water hammer arrestor on the cold water line is sufficient to reduce the noise..sometimes it is not...

    Please get back to me with more info....especially if it is new sound...can talk you through changing of the fill valve if you are unfamiliar with installing new valve. Thank you.
    I have also developed a sort of whining noise (no banging or vibrating at all) at the filled point of the toilet flush. This happens on all toilets and not just one. We first noticed it after the Culligan man inspected our Water Softener resin. We wanted it inspected because after 10 years of use, there are rings around the toilet water anyhow. Something a water softener was supposed to prevent. He said we need it (the resin media) cleaned and he would charge $210 to do it. Sounds a little steep to me.

    I still need to get an answer why my toilets suddenly produce a howling or whining sound after his inspection.
    elzidor's Avatar
    elzidor Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #4

    Aug 11, 2008, 09:25 AM
    My toilet had what sounds like the same problem, a loud whining noise when filling up after flushing.
    The solution was to replace the ball valve diaphragm which had become worn out.
    As this is very cheap and straightforward it might be worth trying.
    afaroo's Avatar
    afaroo Posts: 3,998, Reputation: 251
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    #5

    Aug 11, 2008, 01:47 PM
    Yes the ballcock is one of the problems and it is easy to fix or replace a loose washer at the angle valve will be another problem, but we don't know what the real problem is, please respond to Mark's questions, and we will find what is wrong, good luck.

    John
    Milo Dolezal's Avatar
    Milo Dolezal Posts: 7,188, Reputation: 522
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    #6

    Aug 11, 2008, 08:47 PM
    Open and close your angle stop. If it still persist, check fill valve washer.
    albinfla's Avatar
    albinfla Posts: 310, Reputation: 35
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    #7

    Aug 12, 2008, 04:38 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by dgalati
    We first noticed it after the Culligan man inspected our Water Softener resin. We wanted it inspected because after 10 years of use, there are rings around the toilet water anyhow. Something a water softener was supposed to prevent. He said we need it (the resin media) cleaned and he would charge $210 to do it. Sounds a a little steep to me.
    I own a water treatment company, and have been in the water treatment business for about 20 years. I was responding to the bed cleaning on the softener. The reason why the bed cleaning is $210 is because it takes awhile to do. Most of the time a couple of hours. So, with a service call and 2 hours labor, plus chemical to clean the bed, your $210 estimate seems fair. I normally charge $160 in my area of central Florida.

    Since the softener is 10 years old, I would consider either replacing the resin bed, or the entire softener. I tell most of my customers that after 10 years, they tend to nickel and dime you and give you problems. You will wind up overhauling it over time, or replacing it. If you replace it, you get a new warranty and less aggravation.

    I know this was not necessarily your main question, but I thought I would comment on it anyway.
    Al
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    albinfla Posts: 310, Reputation: 35
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    #8

    Aug 12, 2008, 04:42 AM
    It is possible that you are hearing noise due to increased water pressure. After the softener guy was there, maybe he left the softener in bypass mode since it was not working. Check the valves, and also the softener's bypass valve. If you're not sure about it, post a pic, and I'll let you know what to check.

    Are you on a municipal water supply, or well?
    Al
    tolsti's Avatar
    tolsti Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    Jan 18, 2009, 07:26 PM
    I know the original asker has probably found some solution or other by this time, but I found the other answers lacking when I had the same problem. So, for anybody else out there coming across this, you might want to try what I did first.

    I had the same problem: terrible shaking in the pipes after flushing. Not immediately after, but as the tank was finishing filliing up. Right as the cap or bulb was supposed to shut off the supply, a horrible racket would come from the walls. I could feel it in pipes (when I found a good exposed one). So, instead of installing a water hammer, or taking the walls apart to secure the pipes, or even replacing the fill valve (we have a newer fill valve, with a cup instead of a bulb or ball), I simply loosened the cap the tiniest bit. Maybe an 1/8 of a turn, if even that. I found out that it had become too tight, and the cap was not working properly, because of a disparity in the pressures. By loosening it just a nudge, the cap was able to work properly, the shaking went away, and now everything is fine.

    Maybe this won't solve your problem, but it is sure worth the 5 seconds it took me to see if it would work.
    apierce14's Avatar
    apierce14 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #10

    Feb 28, 2009, 11:52 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by tolsti View Post
    I know the original asker has probably found some solution or other by this time, but I found the other answers lacking when I had the same problem. So, for anybody else out there coming across this, you might want to try what I did first.

    I had the same problem: terrible shaking in the pipes after flushing. Not immediately after, but as the tank was finishing filliing up. Right as the cap or bulb was supposed to shut off the supply, a horrible racket would come from the walls. I could feel it in pipes (when I found a good exposed one). So, instead of installing a water hammer, or taking the walls apart to secure the pipes, or even replacing the fill valve (we have a newer fill valve, with a cup instead of a bulb or ball), I simply loosened the cap the tiniest bit. Maybe an 1/8 of a turn, if even that. I found out that it had become too tight, and the cap was not working properly, because of a disparity in the pressures. By loosening it just a nudge, the cap was able to work properly, the shaking went away, and now everything is fine.

    Maybe this won't solve your problem, but it is sure worth the 5 seconds it took me to see if it would work.
    Hi. I am interested in trying the above... however, what do you mean by "cap?" is that in the tank, or at the wall junction, or at the pipe to the bottom of the tank connection? I am confused.
    tolsti's Avatar
    tolsti Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #11

    Feb 28, 2009, 12:49 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by apierce14 View Post
    Hi. i am interested in trying the above... however, what do you mean by "cap?" is that in the tank, or at the wall junction, or at the pipe to the bottom of the tank connection? I am confused.
    Ok, sorry for the ambiguous nomenclature. The "cap" I refer to, the one that needed to be loosened up a little, is inside the tank. It is the top of the "water control assembly" and where the "refill tube" comes from. (See attached picture below). When I simply loosened this "cap" a small amount, all of the shaking and noises stopped.

    And after having some time, I figured out why. When the cap is on too tightly, it causes a pressure problem. The water coming in is usually stopped by the flow adjustment lever (right where the float ball's arm meets the water control assembly) at the top of the cap. This is because as the float ball rises in the tank, the flow adjustment lever is slowly pushed down to stop the flow of incoming water. But, when the cap is on too tightly, it causes the incoming water to have more pressure, which then makes it "fight" the adjustment lever. (Kinda like when boiling water makes the pot's lid jump around). While these two try to tuff out an equilibrium, it shakes the pipes and makes a lot of noise. Finally, however, equilibrium is reached and the noises stop. By loosening the cap, it reduces the pressure of the incoming water, so that the lever can win the battle.

    Again, I think this should be a first step, and if it doesn't fix the problem, then go on to the other solutions, because you're problem may be different. If you find that upon the refilling of the tank, you can pull up on the float ball at any time and the water stops without making sounds, then it is probably that the cap is on too tightly. That's how I knew this was the problem.
    Attached Images
     
    afaroo's Avatar
    afaroo Posts: 3,998, Reputation: 251
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    #12

    Feb 28, 2009, 02:14 PM

    Toilet will make noise for two reason, if the angle valve has a loose washer at the end of the stem, or dirt in the fill valve, next time when you flush your toilet and if starts the noise open the angle valve completely turn it clock wise, if the sound disappears it is a loose washer in the angle valve, if not then see the images below and tell me which fill valve do you see inside your tank and let us know and we will tell what to do , also we will help how to replace the washer in the angle valve, Thanks.
    Attached Images
     
    apierce14's Avatar
    apierce14 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #13

    Feb 28, 2009, 02:36 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by tolsti View Post
    Ok, sorry for the ambiguous nomenclature. The "cap" I refer to, the one that needed to be loosened up a little, is inside the tank. It is the top of the "water control assembly" and where the "refill tube" comes from. (See attached picture below). When I simply loosened this "cap" a small amount, all of the shaking and noises stopped.

    And after having some time, I figured out why. When the cap is on too tightly, it causes a pressure problem. The water coming in is usually stopped by the flow adjustment lever (right where the float ball's arm meets the water control assembly) at the top of the cap. This is because as the float ball rises in the tank, the flow adjustment lever is slowly pushed down to stop the flow of incoming water. But, when the cap is on too tightly, it causes the incoming water to have more pressure, which then makes it "fight" the adjustment lever. (Kinda like when boiling water makes the pot's lid jump around). While these two try to tuff out an equilibrium, it shakes the pipes and makes a lot of noise. Finally, however, equilibrium is reached and the noises stop. By loosening the cap, it reduces the pressure of the incoming water, so that the lever can win the battle.

    Again, I think this should be a first step, and if it doesn't fix the problem, then go on to the other solutions, because you're problem may be different. If you find that upon the refilling of the tank, you can pull up on the float ball at any time and the water stops without making sounds, then it is probably that the cap is on too tightly. That's how I knew this was the problem.
    OMG! That's definitely the problem... when I pull up on the float ball right before the tank finishes filling it doesn't shake... but when I try to "loosen" the cap (turn to left) the float ball hits the back of the tank. In other words, I can't turn it independently... ack! What a bummer... but at least I definitely know what's wrong, I just can't figure out how to make the float ball come all the way up "quickly" so it won't shake... I tried bending the pipe holding the ball, but it interferes with the piston thing that goes down and tells the tank to start filling... either way, I'm half way to a solution... I know the problem :)
    apierce14's Avatar
    apierce14 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #14

    Feb 28, 2009, 02:50 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by afaroo View Post
    Toilet will make noise for two reason, if the angle valve has a loose washer at the end of the stem, or dirt in the fill valve, next time when you flush your toilet and if starts the noise open the angle valve completely turn it clock wise, if the sound disappears it is a loose washer in the angle valve, if not then see the images below and tell me which fill valve do you see inside your tank and let us know and we will tell what to do , also we will help how to replace the washer in the angle valve, Thanks.
    Mine looks more like the second attachement (the colorful one with numbers) When I pull up on the float ball (3 & 1) at the end of the fill cycle, the pipes don't shake. But the float ball is connected to the center of the cap... so I can't turn the cap without turning the ball as well, so the ball hits the back of the tank and won't go up or down. Basically... I need the float ball to "come up" "quickly" at the end of the cycle so that the pipes won't shake.. but I can't figure out how to do that... see attached
    Attached Images
       
    afaroo's Avatar
    afaroo Posts: 3,998, Reputation: 251
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    #15

    Feb 28, 2009, 02:51 PM

    Open the link below will show hot to adjust the ballcock and how to set the water level, if this will not help, I would suggest to replace the fill valve with a Fluidmaster 400A, good luck.

    John

    Replace The Toilet Fill Valve, Flush Valve Or Flapper | Plumbing Projects | Reader's Digest
    afaroo's Avatar
    afaroo Posts: 3,998, Reputation: 251
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    #16

    Feb 28, 2009, 02:53 PM
    Wow it is time to change with a new one, good Luck.

    John
    apierce14's Avatar
    apierce14 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #17

    Feb 28, 2009, 02:55 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by tolsti View Post
    Ok, sorry for the ambiguous nomenclature. The "cap" I refer to, the one that needed to be loosened up a little, is inside the tank. It is the top of the "water control assembly" and where the "refill tube" comes from. (See attached picture below). When I simply loosened this "cap" a small amount, all of the shaking and noises stopped.

    And after having some time, I figured out why. When the cap is on too tightly, it causes a pressure problem. The water coming in is usually stopped by the flow adjustment lever (right where the float ball's arm meets the water control assembly) at the top of the cap. This is because as the float ball rises in the tank, the flow adjustment lever is slowly pushed down to stop the flow of incoming water. But, when the cap is on too tightly, it causes the incoming water to have more pressure, which then makes it "fight" the adjustment lever. (Kinda like when boiling water makes the pot's lid jump around). While these two try to tuff out an equilibrium, it shakes the pipes and makes a lot of noise. Finally, however, equilibrium is reached and the noises stop. By loosening the cap, it reduces the pressure of the incoming water, so that the lever can win the battle.

    Again, I think this should be a first step, and if it doesn't fix the problem, then go on to the other solutions, because you're problem may be different. If you find that upon the refilling of the tank, you can pull up on the float ball at any time and the water stops without making sounds, then it is probably that the cap is on too tightly. That's how I knew this was the problem.
    Here are some photos... I can't turn the "cap" independently from the float ball... any suggestions... that's definitely the problem
    Attached Images
       
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,782, Reputation: 1210
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    #18

    Feb 28, 2009, 02:55 PM
    Hi all:

    That unit is way overdue to be changed out. Just like John said...replace that fill-valve with a new fluidmaster 400A. Takes about 15 minutes... ;)

    The copper ball is probably full of water and the seals are gone at the fill-valve itself. Not worth repairing.

    Good luck!

    MARK
    Milo Dolezal's Avatar
    Milo Dolezal Posts: 7,188, Reputation: 522
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    #19

    Feb 28, 2009, 02:56 PM

    It is 23 years old fill valve. Do as John said. Also, this unit doesn't have conventional flopper - but a large round seal on the bottom of the moving tube. Remove that old seal, go to Home Depot, get new one and install it. You don't have to replace whole fill tube and "flopper" tube...
    kmonsteruk1's Avatar
    kmonsteruk1 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #20

    Feb 28, 2009, 02:57 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by mkct View Post
    serious noise and vibration coming from pipes following toilet flush. I know it's air in the pipes, how do I get air out and stop the noise?
    Is your toilet fed by the mains or from a tank? If its fed from the mains it should have a flow regulator inserted into the pipe which connects to the ball valve assembly.

    That is usually the problem with noise after a flush! If you find another solution please let me know as I am curious to find a solution to that

    kmonsteruk1@aol.com

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