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lgerovac · Apr 5, 2011, 10:38 AM

I am adding the following pictures for clarity to my previous post

smoothy · Apr 5, 2011, 10:48 AM

Would have helped if you had added them TOO your post.. instead of to a new separate thread.

Except this being your ONE post at this point... you don't have another post.

lgerovac · Apr 5, 2011, 10:56 AM

Every spring my outdoor spigots do not function until the ambient temperature gets up into the 80's. I replaced one last summer thinking that they had to have something wrong with them. However this spring I turned on the new one and it too would not turn on. I tried spraying WD-40 up the line with the valve fully opened. Only by banging on the faucet could I get a very slight flow going. What is inside of this valve that is not opening, is there a flaw in it's design due to clearance issues caused by lower temperatures that don't correct themselves until the ambient temperature is high enough? There must be something other than a simple gate valve inside the faucet. Something spring activated perhaps that is hanging or perhaps a rubber bushing? How do I permanently solve this problem? Should I install a simple old type gate valve faucet? I am tired of this problem. I'm attaching photos of the installation.

lgerovac · Apr 5, 2011, 10:59 AM

Sorry, First time posting, messed it up. Will do it all over again.

massplumber2008 · Apr 5, 2011, 11:04 AM

Hi...

There is usually a cup shaped washer inside these units... could be that when they were installed the person overheated the unit and melted a part.

At this point, I would recommend that you disassemble the unit as presented in the picture below. Here, you'll need to shut the water off at the shutoff and then unscrew the nut as shown in the picture below. Remove the LONG stem assembly and then turn the water flow on to clear the line of any sediment that may be plugging the valve.

At this time, inspect the washer on the end of the stem as well... may need a replacement washer.

If you get full flow of water when the stem assembly is out then replace the stem assembly and you should be all set.

If you still have a reduced water flow with the stem assembly out then the issue is back at the shutoff valve in the wall.

Questions? Let us know, OK?

Mark

lgerovac · Apr 5, 2011, 12:56 PM

Mark,

I did as you suggested. When I first removed the stem assembly only the stem and a spring came out. I then ran the water and still got only a trickle. I then replaced the assembly, did a little banging around on pipes and a little more oil. No difference, I then pulled the assembly out again. This time the valve came out with it. The rubber (cup?) is damaged and one of the four brass tines from the valve had broken out and the spring was wrapped around the other 3 tines and mangled. Even with this out the water still does not run well. I suppose that the spring is supposed to go over the tines, held in place by a flange on the end of the tines and the tension in the spring pulls the valve cup out of it's compartment to allow water to flow. I will have to replace the valve and spring. The end of the long stem was also scored and damaged. Even with all of that out of there I still have only a trickle. So I suppose that the in line gate valve above the faucet assembly is not operating correctly. Isn't that unusual, as it is only about 8 months old?

Lou

massplumber2008 · Apr 5, 2011, 04:29 PM

It's definitely unusual...

Seems that the shutoff may actually be the issue. Any chance if you chase the water line back that you might find another shutoff inline, maybe?

If not, then I'd shut the water off and install a new shutoff and while you are at it, I'd recommend picking up a higher quality anti-freeze outside faucet, like the ones sold at your local plumbing supply store.

Hopefully, that will resolve this for years to come!

Good luck!

Mark

lgerovac · Apr 5, 2011, 09:05 PM

Thank you for your help Mark,

I believe you are exactly right. That is what I will have to do.

Lou

hkstroud · Apr 6, 2011, 05:03 AM

Was a hose left connected to the faucet during the winter?

Mark,
Did you note this statement in Igerovac"s original post?

Every spring my outdoor spigots do not function until the ambient temperature gets up into the 80's.

Makes me wonder if the line is not freezing somewhere.

massplumber2008 · Apr 6, 2011, 04:45 PM

I definitely think you are on to something with freezing here, Harold... whether a hose was connected or not!

Good point, for sure! Hopefully, Igerovac will pop back and discuss more with us.

lgerovac · Apr 7, 2011, 09:15 AM

Yes, a hose was attached to the spigot during the winter. There was a wye junction to allow attachment of 2 hoses to the spigot and I had left the hose attached to one of them. The plumber that did the work also did not caulk around wall where line comes out of wall. He had merely covered the installation with the insulation that was in the wall, so I suppose that could have frozen. The line shutoff above the spigot assembly was in the on position all winter, but I am sure that it did not freeze since it was exposed all of the time to room temperature.

Lou

massplumber2008 · Apr 7, 2011, 12:24 PM

Well there you go! You CANNOT leave a hose attached to the anti-freeze faucet during the winter.

Actually, you were lucky, especially with the shutoff wide open because these valves are famous for freezing, bursting, and then flooding the homes of people that leave hoses attached.

They are anti-freeze and they can be left on all year 'round, but you must attach and detach the hose after every use or next time the outside faucet may not be the only thing damaged... ;)

Good luck!

Mark

hkstroud · Apr 8, 2011, 04:57 AM

Since you apparently didn't know not to leave the hose connected, I will attempt to explain.

The frost free or anti-freeze hose bib, with its long stem actually turns the water off inside the house. That is, inside the warm space. The hose bib does not freeze because there is no water in the body of the hose bib.

It should be installed with a slight downward tilt so that any water in the body drains out after you turn it off.

However, if you leave a hose with a nozzle on it connected, the water cannot drain. Even without the nozzle the hose may not drain completely, leaving water in the hose bib to freeze.

Therefore, you should not leave a hose attached over the winter.

With insulation material surrounding the body of the hose bib, it can take a long for the ice to melt at moderate exterior temperatures.

With the stem removed you should have a full flow of water out the hose bib. If so you should be able to purchase an new bib, same brand, model and length and just replace the stem.

If you don't have an full flow I would assume that some part or piece of material was left in the body when you removed the stem while it was still frozen.