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    MaxProphet's Avatar
    MaxProphet Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Feb 20, 2008, 11:53 AM
    Non bearing wall stud boring options.
    I recently had my electrical panel moved. I have a plumbing reference that indicated I could bore a 2.5” hole in a 2x4 non-bearing stud. I framed a small portion of a wall in the basement to house the electrical panel but because of space constraints I also had to run a washing machine drain under the panel. As I researched more I found out that per electrical code I could not run a piece of plumbing pipe in the area equal to the depth of my electrical panel extending down to the floor. I also cannot run the pipe in front of the studs as it violates the ‘clear area’ in front of my panel.

    So – long story short in my infinite wisdom I choose to simply frame another 2x6 wall in front of the short 2x4 section and move the panel forward one level. I then thought I would run the drain pipe through the 2x4 section behind the 2x6 section thus avoiding the pipe running directly underneath the panel. So as my luck continues to descend I then find out that my reference stating that I can drill a 2.5” hole in a 2x4 is incorrect so I cannot run the pipe through this framing. So I basically at this point have a 2x4 framed wall identical to a 2x6 wall like a sandwich. So it’s kind of like a wall framed with 2x10’s but likely not in the eyes of the codes. ;-)

    Here is what I am thinking:

    I am wanting to stay within the confines of the code regardless of how much effort it takes but I need to get this complete ASAP.

    One option I am considering is notching the front of the 2x4 and back of the 2x6 in a manner that does not violate notching restrictions for either type of lumber and running the pipe through these notches. Basically I will effectively have sandwiched the drain pipe between these two pieces of framing and my pipe will run that way. I will not break the plane of the electrical panel as it will sit far enough back.

    Second option is simply knocking out the 2x4 wall behind the 2x6 framing and using pipe hangers to run the pipe behind the 2x6 frame at a proper downslope. Again I will be far enough back from the electrical box to meet electrical restrictions.

    Third option is just boring the 2x4 wall with 2.5” holes and moving forward. Is this really a code violation considering the true “wall” is really the 2x6 members in front and not that second layer of 2x4’s behind? The 2x4’s in this case would be glorified pipe hangers not something I’d actually affix sheet rock to.

    Any other suggestions? I know it sounds like I made a mess in retrospect I would have framed a 2x6 behind the 2x4 and went that route… I also realize it is not perfect to have the electric that near the washer drain but it is how my house is laid out and the only alternative would have encrouched on a lot of finishable basement space. It is my understanding there is nothing else to worry about in regard to the plumbing proximity to the electrical outside of the electrical panel clearance requirements. Thanks!

    -Kevin
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #2

    Feb 20, 2008, 12:45 PM
    Hi Kevin... hey, I just asked the resident electrical expert (TKRUSSELL) to pop in when he has a chance to see if he can give you an exact answer to your question. I know you may get a few answers from some online here... I just wanted to be sure you got an answer from the electrical people online.

    Good luck.
    tkrussell's Avatar
    tkrussell Posts: 9,659, Reputation: 725
    Uber Member
     
    #3

    Feb 20, 2008, 04:11 PM
    Either one of your three options seem reasonable, keeping the panel area clear, and not sacrificing strength of the framing members.

    Being a basement wall, a carpenter could hopefully confirm this for me, since these are not load bearing walls vertical strength is not needed, so cutting too much away should not cause too much damage.

    I like option #1, but al depends on what you have in progress so far.
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
    Home Improvement & Construction Expert
     
    #4

    Feb 20, 2008, 05:03 PM
    I think I can confirm that the verical strength of the 2x4 wall is of no significents. Your referance that said that you could drill a 2 1/2" hole in a 2x4 was, as you have noted incorrect. A 2x4 is only 3 1/2" wide. That would only leave 1/2" of material on each side of the hole. The stud would be, for all practical purposes cut in two. Having framed another wall in front of these 2x4 studs they are now effectively just spacers. They serve no purpose other than to be in you way. You could have just framed the 2x6 wall 3 1/2" from the basement wall and had the same thing. I would either cut them at the required level, cutting out a 3 or 4" section or drill them out becaues that is probably easier now. Then use plywood gussets attaching them to the 2x6, both above and below the cut . Their only purpose, as you have noted, is to support the pipe.

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