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    joypulv's Avatar
    joypulv Posts: 21,593, Reputation: 2941
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    #1

    Jul 21, 2012, 03:47 AM
    Install undermount sink on top of counter?
    Free countertop, very good price on undermount sink...

    What if I just caulked the sink to death so I can put it on top of a laminate counter? I don't have a plunge router and don't want to do Counter-Seal (edge kit for undermount sinks on laminate). What are the odds it will leak anyway?
    ma0641's Avatar
    ma0641 Posts: 15,681, Reputation: 1012
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    #2

    Jul 21, 2012, 05:35 AM
    With enough silicone caulk it should work but not look too good with the mounting lip that high. BTW you don't need a plunge routed to do this, make a template and don't drink too much coffee!
    joypulv's Avatar
    joypulv Posts: 21,593, Reputation: 2941
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    #3

    Jul 21, 2012, 08:24 AM
    Oops I didn't know the lip would be high. I've never seen one in person. Oh well, I'll find out soon enough.
    The video for the kit to edge a laminate top calls for a plunge router I guess to make sure it's a super clean smooth cut? Mine wouldn't be that's for sure.
    ma0641's Avatar
    ma0641 Posts: 15,681, Reputation: 1012
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    #4

    Jul 21, 2012, 01:01 PM
    Didn't see that was your post. Thickness depends on the sink. SS is thin but ceramic or cast iron is pretty thick. Plunge routed is easier but a regular type can be used. Some people use a Dremel to do the outline and then a regular one to finish. I use a regular router for hinges and it works well.
    creahands's Avatar
    creahands Posts: 2,854, Reputation: 195
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    #5

    Jul 21, 2012, 09:20 PM
    If u don't have a router, u can use a saber saw. Drill a hole large enough for saw blade and cut away.

    Chuck
    joypulv's Avatar
    joypulv Posts: 21,593, Reputation: 2941
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    #6

    Jul 22, 2012, 12:37 AM
    You have both put an undermount sink on top of a counter, and/or put one under a laminate counter?
    ma0641's Avatar
    ma0641 Posts: 15,681, Reputation: 1012
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    #7

    Jul 22, 2012, 08:52 AM
    I wouldn't put an undermount sink in a laminate counter, the sides of the opening are unprotected. Some newer sinks can be mounted either way. CHUCK -ii was referring yo routing out a lip to let the sink sit level, not for cutting the hole. JP -what type of sink is it?
    joypulv's Avatar
    joypulv Posts: 21,593, Reputation: 2941
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    #8

    Jul 22, 2012, 11:44 AM
    There are kits for sale to line the open edge. They are what require a plunge router.

    It's stainless 16 gauge (being shipped). I'm hoping it will be thick enough to lie flat. Even 18 gauge doesn't always lie flat even with clips.
    ma0641's Avatar
    ma0641 Posts: 15,681, Reputation: 1012
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    #9

    Jul 22, 2012, 05:34 PM
    If you are buying a sink why didn't you get a drop in, they are pretty cheap?
    joypulv's Avatar
    joypulv Posts: 21,593, Reputation: 2941
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    #10

    Jul 23, 2012, 02:44 AM
    All the drop ins had 3 or 4 holes, the drain in the middle (I want it near the back), and I like the D shape and depth of the one I found for a good price. Plus the heavy gauge. And I'd have it for if I ever get a solid surface counter. (But granite is not for me - all that weight and expense.)
    ma0641's Avatar
    ma0641 Posts: 15,681, Reputation: 1012
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    #11

    Jul 23, 2012, 01:57 PM
    JP-I would cut the hole to fit 1/8" larger than the sink. Put a good bead of silicone and set the sink down into it with a brick or 2 in the sink. 16 guage is roughly 1/16" thick and should not have a big lip. Send us a pic when done. Brian
    joypulv's Avatar
    joypulv Posts: 21,593, Reputation: 2941
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    #12

    Jul 28, 2012, 12:32 AM


    Sink does not sit quite as flat as I had hoped and even came with a slight ripple on one spot which wasn't easy to flatten but I think it will be OK, and I managed to spend $0 on the counter, $168 on the sink, and $49 on the faucet.

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