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    John R's Avatar
    John R Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Sep 8, 2005, 04:22 PM
    Need help installing a shower drain
    I have installed an acrylic/fiberglass shower base on the second Floor (no underneath access) where there was a previous and very cheap shower base. The new base is now cemented and firmly in place. The 2" PVC drain extends into the drain- - it is a "caulkless" BK with a compression ring and tightening nut to seal. It is also, however, due to the previous installer, is at a slight angle and only a 1/2" on one side and 1 1/8" high on the other. The seal is a good one inch at least. Of course, when I compress the seal, the rubber ring compresses in and over the lip of the PVC pipe. My question is...Is this okay, if not, would it be okay if I used silicone on the rubber seal before and after compression. If neither of these is any good, is it possible to buy a 2" PVC extension that could be cemented inside the pipe and cut to the length I need? The previous shower leaked, which I don't want to go through again. At the same time, in my eagerness for completion, I've already cemented the base in. Thanks very much in advance for any help.
    Regards,
    John
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #2

    Sep 9, 2005, 05:26 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by John R
    I have installed an acrylic/fiberglass shower base on the second Floor (no underneath access) where there was a previous and very cheap shower base. The new base is now cemented and firmly in place. The 2" PVC drain extends into the drain- - it is a "caulkless" BK with a compression ring and tightening nut to seal. It is also, however, due to the previous installer, is at a slight angle and only a 1/2" on one side and 1 1/8" high on the other. The seal is a good one inch at least. Of course, when I compress the seal, the rubber ring compresses in and over the lip of the PVC pipe. My question is...Is this okay, if not, would it be okay if I used silicone on the rubber seal before and after compression. If neither of these is any good, is it possible to buy a 2" PVC extension that could be cemented inside the pipe and cut to the length I need? The previous shower leaked, which I don't want to go through again. At the same time, in my eagerness for completion, I've already cemented the base in. Thanks very much in advance for any help.
    Regards,
    John
    Good morning John,

    This part's a little confusing; "It is also, however, due to the previous installer, is at a slight angle and only a 1/2" on one side and 1 1/8" high on the other. The seal is a good one inch at least."
    Are you saying the lip of the drain is cocked so that 1/2 of the drain seats and the other half is 1/8" above the shower floor? And the "O" ring sets down 1" into the trap stup-up? Right?
    Then if the drain seal fits down in to the trap stub up why do you wish to lengthen it and why would the "O" ring compress over the top of the pipe if it were one inch inside of it? What am I missing?? Regards, Tom
    John R's Avatar
    John R Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Sep 9, 2005, 06:30 AM
    Sorry for the lack of clarity. The 2" pvc drain is cocked at an angle and rises into the bottom of the drain assembly about one half inch on one side and one and one eighth inch on the other. It does not rise above the floor of the shower. Because the seal is one inch, when I tighten it the seal bends inward and over the lip of the PVC drain pipe. Does that make sense?
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #4

    Sep 9, 2005, 10:50 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by John R
    Sorry for the lack of clarity. The 2" pvc drain is cocked at an angle and rises into the bottom of the drain assembly about one half inch on one side and one and one eighth inch on the other. It does not rise above the floor of the shower. Because the seal is one inch, when I tighten it the seal bends inward and over the lip of the PVC drain pipe. Does that make sense?
    Yeah John,
    It makes sense now. I suppect you suppected all along you were going to have to open up the ceiling and straighten up the trap so the drain raiser's plumb and not cocked but were hoping I could come up with a better solution.
    I can't. You're going to have to go in and straighten the trap and extend the raiser if it needs to be extended after you plum up the trap. This will mean that you also have the option of installing a regular 2" glue on drain. Good luck, Tom
    John R's Avatar
    John R Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Sep 9, 2005, 12:17 PM
    Thanks for getting back to me so quickly Tom. I've got one more question. If my only problem was the height of the PVC drain and the seal was bending over the drain pipe when tightened, would this be okay? Because getting the seal snuggly tightened around what pipe is available is not a problem a all.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #6

    Sep 9, 2005, 12:24 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by John R
    Thanks for getting back to me so quickly Tom. I've got one more question. If my only problem was the height of the PVC drain and the seal was bending over the drain pipe when tightened, would this be okay? Because getting the seal snuggly tightened around what pipe is available is not a problem a all.
    Hey John,
    If the seal was "bending" over the trap raiser then you haven't got a seal at all. If you install a drain on a cocked raiser you're just asking for trouble. My advice? Straighten up the trap and raiser and do the job right. Regards, Tom

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