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    sbecerra's Avatar
    sbecerra Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Mar 30, 2008, 12:22 PM
    Flange bolts broke off in cast iron flange
    After laying tile in a bathroom, we tried to remove two flange bolts from a cast iron flange, but the both broke off flush with the flange. They were too short to begin with, but now we can't even get them out. It's as if they're rusted in. What can we do?
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #2

    Mar 30, 2008, 12:29 PM
    Soak them in WD40 and take a small chisel and tap them down to where they can be removed. The bolts are made of brass so they're softer then to cast iron flange but don't smack the flange too hard. Cast irons brittle and will break. Good lucik, Tom
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #3

    Mar 30, 2008, 12:29 PM
    Sbecerra:

    Sounds like you had a set of screw in type johhny bolts. Do these move at all when wiggling? If they do, may just need to wiggle lots and finally release them. If not, and screw in type, try to grab remaining bolts with a pair of needle nose pliers and twist counterclockwise... may be able to remove them still.

    If not, I would carefully drive them down below the floor using a hammer and flat screwdriver or similar. Of course, you don't want to crack the flange, so be careful.

    Then just install/slide an updated 1/4" or 5/16" pair of johhny bolts into the channels of the closet flange and install wax gasket to toilet bowl and should be able to set toilet from there.

    Let me know what happens or if it does not work... Mark

    *Sorry Tom*.. we posted at same time again.. ;)

    .
    sbecerra's Avatar
    sbecerra Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #4

    Mar 30, 2008, 12:45 PM
    I'm a little confused by both responses. The old cast iron flange sits lower than the surface of the new tile floor. We have not yet put on the plastic flange extension. If I "tap them down" (into the flange/subfloor?) I don't see how I would be able to remove them.

    The bolts were not johnny bolts, and they are stuck in there with no movement. If I "drive them down" below the floor (and I'm assuming further into the flange bolt holes), won't that strip the threads making it impossible to install a new bolt?

    Forgive me - I'm very VERY inexperienced with this, and having a hard time seeing the logic in the response. THANK YOU for being able to respond so quickly!
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #5

    Mar 30, 2008, 05:05 PM
    Hey sbecerra:

    Sorry about the double post... that cannot be helping as we intended!

    You said "were not johnny bolts"... what kind of "bolts" are they?

    I assumed you were talking of toilet screws (see pic.#1) and I was suggesting that you might be able to loosen or push down into subfloor to allow you to install/slide new toilet BOLTS (johnny bolts... see pic.#2) into the slots of the existing flange and extension flange(s).

    Are you talking about the screws that secure the closet flange to the floor?

    (p.s. you may need to get longer johnny bolts for this... will make it easier when setting toilet... longer bolts help when aligning toilet to flange).

    Get back to us... Mark
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    sbecerra's Avatar
    sbecerra Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Mar 31, 2008, 09:55 PM
    We were talking about the same thing, as I was using bolts like pic #1. Maybe I was using the word "flange" incorrectly, as there was no way to slide a johnny bolt (pic 2) in/out like I've seen on the plastic fittings. These bolts were the attachment to the cast iron fitting/pipe that came up to the floor. We've fixed it now, although it may not have been the best solution. We just drilled four new holes into the cast iron to attach the new plastic fitting to it, then used johnny bolts slid in the sides to attach the toilet later. We were a bit skiddish about drilling holes into that cast iron, but it seemed to work OK.

    PS - later I learned what "tap" means (e.g. self-tapping screws), so I'm sorry if I caused any confusion previously.

    Thanks to everyone who helped us figure this one out! We were thinking the worst case scenario was at hand.
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #7

    Apr 1, 2008, 03:25 AM
    Thanks for update sbecerra:

    Sounds like you guys did just fine. I am still a little unclear as to why flange did not have SLOTS to slide new johhny bolts into.. Was the old flange broken by chance?

    Anyway, again, thanks for the update. Always appreciate that! Mark
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #8

    Apr 1, 2008, 04:56 AM
    You did all that was necessary. And that was to secure the toilet to the floor. I hope you installed a wax seal with a funnel. That would give you added protection against leaks and bad smells. Good luck, Tom

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