Ask Experts Questions for FREE Help !
Ask
    guyland123's Avatar
    guyland123 Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #1

    Nov 17, 2008, 12:12 PM
    Cracked/Crumbled tub drain pipe, best way to repair.
    House built in the 50's, and the original drain pipe from the 1st floor tub extends about 12" down into the garage below. This pipe has cracked/crumbled right at the elbow (has a small bend that looks like a 5" trap) before running horizontal with the garage ceiling.

    What is the best way to fix this. Would I have to rip open the ceiling. The ceiling appears to be cement, but I am not sure.

    Can I just cut above the inch wide crack that is near the threads, and also make a cut on the horizontal pipe, and just put some sort of rubber boot (sorry not sure about terminology), on it to fix the leak. I'm afraid that tightening the boot may crack the pipe, since it appears weak.

    Should I just wrap the pipe, or use some type of epoxy to seal the leak, do they make such a product?

    Thanks for any help. Wife is upset that the kids don't have a tub/shower, so I might just call a plumber in, and get it fixed! I figure I can fend her off for a couple of days though :)
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
    		  
    #2

    Nov 17, 2008, 12:19 PM
    Can you give us a picture? Your pipes will be cast Iron. Do you wish to convert to PVC and install a"P" trap and raiser? Back to you, Tom
    guyland123's Avatar
    guyland123 Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #3

    Nov 18, 2008, 12:08 PM
    Here is a picture of the "problem"
    Attached Images
     
    guyland123's Avatar
    guyland123 Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #4

    Nov 18, 2008, 12:11 PM

    Sorry forgot to answer the question.

    I was thinking PVC, just for the ease of installation, but I don't really have a preference.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
    		  
    #5

    Nov 18, 2008, 01:28 PM
    That wasted raiser's copper. It solders into a Midland bushing on the trap. It can be replaced or you can go back and convert to a PVC trap and raiser But If you go that way The drain will have to replaced as well. Copper and brass solders, PVC and plastic glues. What's yourc pleasure? Regards, Tom
    guyland123's Avatar
    guyland123 Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #6

    Nov 18, 2008, 01:31 PM

    I wonder if I can find a drain to fit my old tub. Are the drains pretty much standard?

    I wonder how difficult it will be to work through the ceiling? Guess I will have to make the whole larger, and take a look around.

    Is there anyway to "patch" the job, since the bathroom will be replaced in the next 3-4 years? Would that be just asking for more trouble?
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
    		  
    #7

    Nov 18, 2008, 02:09 PM
    QUOTE]Is there anyway to "patch" the job, since the bathroom will be replaced in the next 3-4 years? Would that be just asking for more trouble?[/QUOTE]
    If it were my call that's what I'd do. And I think it could be done without tearing up anything. It's going to take some one with soldering skills and a lot of patience. The copper raiser's soldered into a Midland Bushing, (see image) thet's screwed into a threaded "P" trap. It solders into a Brass shower drain.(see image) in the shower floor. Here you have olptions. If the braiser isn't ate all the way upand you have stock up near the drain you can cut the bad part out and couple in a new piece of copper. Replace the Midland bushing and solder everything up and it should last until you remodel. If the raiser is so bad that it all must be replaced then replace the Midland Bushing, remove the strainer unsolder the raiser from the shower drain and replace with a new copper raiser. This can be done without disturbing the shower drain. Good luck and thank you for rating my answer, Tom
Not your question? Ask your question View similar questions
 

Question Tools Search this Question
Search this Question:

Advanced Search

Add your answer here.


Check out some similar questions!

Concrete shower floor repair (cracked, leaking & painted) [ 1 Answers ]

I am updating my rough basement bathroom. I have two very young children, a boy and a girl and funds are very limited especially around this time of year. (My daughter is only nine-months and I am already thinking about the bathroom issues between her and my son). The shower has a painted concrete...

Does the furnace Pipe look cracked to you? [ 27 Answers ]

Can you guys please look at the following pictures and tell me what you think. Does the exhaust pipe look damaged to you? Did the repairman who tried to repair it do a poor job? The pipe has since been replaced but I need some help from you guys. Thanks.

Cracked Furnace Pipe [ 49 Answers ]

Hello everyone I have a quick question. One of the pipes which is attached to our furnace and leads outside cracked about 8 months ago. The repairman came and took care of it using waterproof adhesive sealant. A few weeks ago, another repairman came to clean up a natural gas leak and I asked...

Cement steps cracked by metal railing - best way to repair? [ 2 Answers ]

I have steps in the back of the house that are poured cement, about 6 inches thick, sitting on top of a wood and stucco structure. Embedded in the steps is a metal handrail. Every step where the metal is embedded is cracked and broken. I believe that over the years, water has snuck in between...

How to repair concrete drain pipe? [ 2 Answers ]

INFO: My home is single level on foundation. It is about 40 years old Has had a sunroom/laundry room added on the back PICTURE IT: The back of my home is L shaped with the laundry room on the short side and the kitchen on the long side. After a recent rain I found what was clearly content...

View more questions Search