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jjustinia · Aug 10, 2009, 02:50 PM

I actually have the same problem. And it is a 1 and a half p-trap that when fully extended and turned to the left, toward the drain's tail piece, I am still off by about 1-2 inches. Do they make an off set or something.

Also I have a metal nut on the stub out. The stub out is 1 and a half pvc. The outer thread is a little stripped and once I get it all the way on without crossing any more threads the trap arm is still a little wobbly. I can't pul it out or push it in, so that is a measure of how tight it is. I don't want to turn it any more for fear of completely striping the plastic thread. The nuts are new and not broken. I also don't have the tail piece in for the reason stated above. Any thoughts? Will this be fine when it is hooked up to the tailpiece which will give it stability, as it won't be hang. I am not as lucky as the original poster. I knew they were going to be off because I did not want to cut through another stud when I rough it in and went a little short. I just have to deal with it now.

Thanks!

mygirlsdad77 · Aug 10, 2009, 03:20 PM

First off, I suggest using a platic nut on trap adapter. They do make a tubular 45 which may be the way to go here. If you go this route you will need some extra tubular pipe(tailpeices work just fine). Then just fit the 45 out to where it will meet up with the swing of the trap. In the pic I posted the color of the fitting is black, but most likely you will find a white one. Color doesn't matter, they are the same thing.

jjustinia · Aug 10, 2009, 03:29 PM

I am not seeing how this will work. What about the use of a double offset tubular? Although I am concerned about vertical space.

mygirlsdad77 · Aug 10, 2009, 03:53 PM

Ok, lets start from the beginning. Is this a bathroom sink, or a kitchen sink, or a laundry sink? If kitchen or laundry sink, is it one or two compartments? If it is by chance a two compartments kitchen sink, there are a few other options in which to do this correctly. Also, if ks, please let me know if you have an end outlet waste, or center outlet waste. Please let me know. Lee

jjustinia · Aug 10, 2009, 04:15 PM

This is a double bathroom vanity, 60 inch. Each bowl has its own pvc sch 40 stub out-1 and a half inches. The tail piece is a 1 and a quarter and will be adapted with a reducing nut and washer. Again mis aligned by 1-2 inches. I was thinking something like this, a simple 45 would leave it more mis aligned.

mygirlsdad77 · Aug 10, 2009, 04:25 PM

Yes, your pic will work just fine as long as you have enough vertical room(which you already said you were worried about). The pic I showed is actually meant to be installed in the horizontal, between the wall drain and the p-trap. The 45 I showed will offset the wall drain instead of the sink tailpeice. However, if you find that you don't have enough vertical room, you may still be able to use the double offset in the horizontal, and then swing your trap out away from the wall to make room to fit. Please let me know what you think.

massplumber2008 · Aug 10, 2009, 04:34 PM

Hi all:

As MGD pointed out, you can cut the pipe s coming out of the wall and install 45s to see if that will help you to align the traps OR you could use the offset you posted IF enough vertical room OR finally, you could use a 1.25" flexible tailpiece... ;) See image.

Here, install the threaded 1.25" tailpiece and see if the flexi. tailpiece will work. If not enough vertical room then you will need to cut the metal 1.25" threaded tailpiece from the lavatory drain. That should allow enough room to fit the flexi. Tailpiece into place. You can also cut the plastic 1.25" flexi. Tailpiece, but be sure to leave enough plastic to set into the ptrap.

Let us know if that made sense...

MARK

Hi Harold...:) We posted at exactly the same time!!

hkstroud · Aug 10, 2009, 04:45 PM

Purchase two 1 1/2" PVC 45 degree ells, one 45 street ell, one trap adapter fitting, glue and primer and some 1 1/2" PVC pipe.

Cut off existing trap adapter. Cut a length of pipe that will reach from stub out to drain tail pipe.
Put street 45 into regular 45 and put on stub out. Put pipe in 45 ell. If pipe is close enough to tail pipe for trap to work, cut off pipe at appropriate length for trap and arm. Put on trap adapter and assemble with glue and primer.

If pipe is not close enough for trap to reach tail pipe, remove street 45 and put aside. Cut short piece of pipe. Put that in 45 on stub out, put other regular 45 on short pipe. Put the first pipe in the second 45. Measure the distance between center of pipe and tail pipe. Add or subtract that measurement to the pipe between the 45s. Cut a new piece to replace the one between the 45s. Remove the pipe between the two 45s. Put in the piece you just cut. Cut pipe to length for trap. Assemble with glue and primer.

jjustinia · Aug 10, 2009, 04:48 PM

The part that was missing from lee's post was that I would cut the horizontal coming from the wall. Now it makes sense. That was not mentioned. If the 45 goes in the middle of the part coming from the wall it makes perfect sense because the curve down will go into the trap.

jjustinia · Aug 10, 2009, 04:49 PM

I have a chrome trap with slip nuts.

mygirlsdad77 · Aug 11, 2009, 03:50 PM

The pic I posted actually goes between wall trap adapter and trap, but if you have room to cut off the trap adapter, then using glued pvc joint (45) would be the better way to go. However, I would try Marks suggestion first, as it will be the easiest solution if it offsets enough to make the trap work. Good luck and please let us know how you make out. Also, I would suggest using a plastic trap(unless the trap is visible from outside vanity). Plastic will last much longer than chrome.

KISS · Aug 11, 2009, 04:32 PM

Can you post a picture of what the drain system looks like.

22 1/2 degree elbows can make just about anything line up.

jjustinia · Aug 11, 2009, 07:44 PM

I like the idea of putting the 45 or 22 1/2 in between the trap adpater and the trap. There is room to make the cut and add the elbow. I am not sure about cutting of the trap adapter and how that would work. I would like to know more about this in case I strip the threads and need to do it for that reason. I have a 2 inch 90 hub that has a 1 1/2 inch reducing adapter glued into it and then a 1 1/2 trap adapter glued into that, I think that is what it is called. It is the street on one side and then threads on the other. The 90 is behind the wall with the hub sticking through, so how would I cut the trap adapter out and still be able to use it? FYI this is a double vanity set up, so I have a 2 inch double sanitary tee in the middle with two lines extending out 2ish feet with 90 on the end into the reducers and trap adapter. I had a bad day today so I don't have pics if needed will take them tomorrow night.

mygirlsdad77 · Aug 12, 2009, 03:49 PM

Ok, you would have to cut open the wall and cut out the 90 that leads to san tee, then just reposition a new 90 on center of sink tailpiece. If you don't want to cut into wall, that is were the 45 tubular slip joint fitting and or the flexable tailpiece comes into play. I think your on the right track, so just give these things a try and please let us know how it works for you. Lee. And if not, we will await the pics. Thanks.

jjustinia · Aug 16, 2009, 12:39 PM

I used the double ofset cut in the horizontal line. All aligns now. HOWEVER!on the connection from the 1 1/4 tailpiece to the 1 1/2 trap they seem to be loose. I am using a reducing washer and nut. What seems to be happening is the nut bottoms out before it can fully compress the washer. What I did to quickly fix this problem is lay the original 1 1/2 washer on top of the reducing washer and now I was able to get more compression and it is tighter. Its still is not solid and immoble but it is all water tight, so far. I have run the water and all is well. But this seems like it should not have happened. I am using kholer drains and watts traps. All good products I think, but I had this problem. Is there something I am missing? Your advice and experience would be appreciated.

mygirlsdad77 · Aug 16, 2009, 02:12 PM

Its hard to say without being there to see the actuall situation. Ive never tried the two ring trick, but if its working, I would say your good to go. Good job and let us know if you have any further questions. Ive noticed that platic reducing rings do not compress down enough to make a really tight connection, but will almost always be watertight. I wouldn't worry about it as long as its water tight. Lee.

jjustinia · Aug 16, 2009, 02:26 PM

Well that is exactly what I was looking to hear. I do have a plastic washer reducing and the others are black rubber.the plastic one is the one that is loose-ish. The adding the other washer gave me more thread to clamp down on. I did not wrench it so much that I broke anything but enough to be right next to the breaking point. It is all water tight. Thanks!