We're about to put laminate upstairs, and wood down (we have to match what's here). We're going to throw a couple layers of poly on the wood after we get it in. that will take care of the leaking issues. I think they should recommend this -- but I guess they want it to seem as easy as possible, and to heck with you later. We were reading the box on the laminate yesterday and it says we have to lay it over a "shaw" underlayment (that's the brand). So, guess what? If we use the underlayment from the store -- no warranty!! They getcha no matter what. I wonder if I could get the store to put it in writing that they guarantee it if shaw spits it back -- if I use their pad.

It is real wood not engineered! Don't listen to the other post that talk about the durability of laminates. True they may wear a little longer but a all metal floor would wear even better than laminate, but I wouldn't use either because the look like crap. Your floor is beautiful sorry about the bad luck. A wood filler is one of your best options, I would not refinish the floor. It is important to note that modern wood floors do not use polyurethane, It is why they last so long. They mainly used aluminum oxide. You can do this yourself just allot more work tools and precautions.:)

I'm not sure I understand if you have real or engineered wood? It appears to be real wood from what I can tell. Anyway... did you put down a moisture barrier of any sort. I think that's usually the norm for real wood anyway. I'm not sure about engineered although it wouldn't seem to hurt, esp in the kitchen.

We also have many furniture scratches on our hardwood floors. We moved in but neglected to really delve into care, maint, etc. Ours is in the living room,etc We'll have to bite the bullet one day and have it all resanded and refinished. Our's has beveled edges also. A lovely look for a country look but OMG what a PITA for cleaning on a day to day basis. And then you add stupidly dragging furniture.. LOL We've at least gotten better at that but you usually only get one chance at it per piece of furniture.

Good Luck!

Yes, it is solid wood - but it is engineered. We did not put down a moisture barrier, just plywood over the floor boards. We have a full basement below, not a foundation. I wasn't too concerned with spilling liquids because of the nice finish, but I didn't expect the huge gaps between each board.

If I had it to do again I would NEVER put wood, or anything with potential gaps, in the kitchen! Now this spring we noticed the cute little ants that were always outside our house found a way to get in. They use the gaps as their own little tunnel system! UGGGGHHHHH!

Kim, I hate to tell you this but you just need to pull it up and call the pros to come install the new. You could use wood putty but it will look bad. This was HD's long plk solid w/ a 3 plank look. Looking at the side view of the product, I can tell you had a hard time getting the plank together in the first place. The groove is real fuzzy/hairy this is always a sign of "inexpensive flooring" that HD is so good at carrying. One thing you are supposed to put down before the wood is felt paper. This helps with some moisture coming up from the lower floor and dampens some sound as well. You let it set upstairs long enough, and it sounds like there where no gaps right after the install was completed. But is started gapping pretty soon after. Did you drive the staples in at the right angle (45 degree angle into the board at the base of the tounge), did you use the right staple(usually 1 1/4 in to 1 1/2 in, 18 gauge staple), was the setting on the nail gun set right to counter sink the staple just below the level of the wood. The top of the staple sticking up could cause the planks not to go together very well. I always say us a 3/4 in gap on solids around the walls, but then again I never recommend solid woods. Only the true engineered wood that has 5 plys or more.

As for the dents in the floors, usually you can remove and replace the planks even if they are in the middle of the floor. Even with the fake plastic laminates you can remove and replace a plank in the middle of the floor without taking it all apart.

I would call an installation company, have them come out and look at it to see what they can do to save the floor. If not claim it on your home owners insurance and have the pros install the new.

Kim,
The dark flooring pics look very similar to the floor I laid in my home. Your gouges look beyond a putty fill. I would think your options are to sand it out and re-stain and re-finish. For the grooves you could carefully sand those grooves back in yourself, but that would be very tidious. Or your second option is to cut out those boards and replace with left overs (assuming you have some) this would require some face nailing with brad nails, but those holes are easier to puddy and disguise then trying to fill a huge gouge. As far as the gaps, when you installed the flooring did your staples sink all the way in that they should have because that could very possibly be why you had a difficult time in the first place getting them to go together. Sure, there could be moisture issues, but from your original statement and the picture it seems the staples could have prevented your being able to tightly fit them (which they should be tight). As for closing the gaps, you'll probably have to pull them up and do it again. Not fun, I know, but any attempt to fill with putty or anything else is probably not going to be to pretty to look out. Good luck!

Hire a lawyer and sue them for a grossly high amount ($80,000-$120,000) claiming that the owness is on them for selling an honest and sound products. Their company is one of the leading flooring providers in canada (or USA) and needs to be held accountable to sell products honestly. It seems to me they lied and cheated you and the proof is on your floor. I've seen a few case of this in british columbia canada, and in every case the company settles for 15-25 grand. In my experience it is completely unexeptable what they did to you and a judge will see that. But they will probably settle with you before you go in front of a judge.

Don't FILL THE GAPS WITH FILLER. When the floor expands and contracts the putty will crack in many places along the side of the boards. It will look ten times worse than it does now. The basement is the culprit here I believe. The wood should have acclimated in the room or rooms that it was being installed. There are no fixes for that problem. Your only hope is to have your dishwasher leak onto your floor where it has to be taken up and replaced. PS-- I am a floor installer and refinisher for 26 years,

Very old thread however, I will add my thoughts for future readers. First, this does not appear to be engineered wood, this is solid planking. It may be nailed as well as glued, generally not both but only because it would be overkill. When nailing, a flooring specific nailer along with the appropriate fasteners should be used, a regular trim nailer is not the right tool for the job.

As mentioned before, a week out of the basement, even with a dehumidifyer, likely is not sufficient. A basement is the worst place to store wood unless it's being installed there.

Proper underlayment is extremely important. It must be (in total) at least 3 quarter inch, flooring appropriate and properly offset, plywood.

The manufacturer's requirements may be more stringent than this. Deviation from the above 3 are likely to create the problem that you have now.

You can expect to have seasonal expansion and contraction. Gapping of about 1 16th of an inch or less can be covered by a matching wax filler. You may be able to address larger gaps (due to improper aclimation or fasteners) by strapping the floor and face nailling the perimeter. Success of this is highly questionable though you should be able to improve the larger gaps.

If you have a improper underlayment, I am sorry to say that you will likely have to tear out and reinstall. Short of that, if you have access to the subfloor from your basement, you may be able to strap and then screw from below Screwing may well create it's own problems and is not recommended. You may also be able to apply plywood strips between the floor joist to help strengthen and reduce movement.

You can cut the affected board out and replace with a new one

This thread started in 2007, let it die