I think I got it. The marks from the other flooring can still be seen so I based my points off that and pretended I was just laying tile. I dry fit them and have a few adjustments but I think it turned out pretty well on the first try. I was going to lay them straight and already had the tiles cut to fit around the toilet but I can still use the ones I cut by cutting a little more off. What luck! Just have to figure out how to use this 20" Brutus tile cutter with protrator measuring gauge. Any suggestions?

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Looks like it should be 45 Degrees, Or diagonally point to opposite point looks like it could work.
Looks Good.

Depnding on the quality of that cutter and your tile it may be the wrong tool for the job. I use a wet saw for tiles this large.

I like using my RotoZip tool with a diamond blade for those close cuts, especially around the edges, corners and "cutting a little more" around those closet flanges.

That works fine on ceramic but barely scratches porcelein tile. The tile cutter Patty mentioned will not cut 12" tiles diagonally without a big chip at the end of the cut. What is that pink stuff that's now on the floor, it wasn't there yesterday in Patty's other post.

It looks like Red Guard is being used?

That's what I'm using for the cuts around the flange.

I have a wet saw but it's small and I have to free hand the cuts without a guard and got all wet on the one I tried.

It is redguard and being used as an isolation membrane. There are a couple of hairline cracks and I didn't want them to transfer to the tile. I also etched the concrete since it was sealed.

Not familiar with Redguard but have used Ditra on concrete. Schluter-DITRA - Schluter-Systems Concrete always cracks and will continue to crack but ceramic has no flex. Ditra provides a slightly flexible bed for the tile. Sounds like Red Guard does the same.

It can be used as both a waterproofer and isolation membrane. The key is having the floor with no sealer on it at all. I used muriatic acid and had the bathroom sealed off and got the hell out of there. Did a really good job. Concrete was rough enough to grab pieces of my mop. Mopped it up-put the mop in a bucket and rinsed it outside several times. Flodded the floor with baking soda and water and went through the same process a couple of times. Rolled a layer of regard on and made sure it got into the hairline crack. The conrete must be damp from a sponge to make the redguard work. I let it dry and applied another coat in the opposite direction. After that dried I brushed one last heavier coat over the floor. This made it thick enough for an isolation membrane. Some people had problems with it peeling off but I think their concrete was sealed or they put on too heavy of a coat to begin with. No peeling so far even after dry fitting tiles a couple times. The floor is a little tacky and the tiles don't slide around.
Just confused on what kind of mortar to use now since you guys don't recommend premixed.And by the way I took that tile cutter back to HD. My old one cuts porcelain much better and I will freehand the diagonals on my small wet saw.

Pattyg2, I've tiled bathroom floors, walls and shower stalls with Ultraflex II from Lowe's and seems to be the best of all the thinsets available in the construction Industry which is polymer modified and ANSI (118.4) certified with all warranties.

Just a recommendation.

BTW, it worked great on top of Red Guard!