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Dr D · Mar 31, 2006, 10:07 AM

I am in the process of installing a bathroom in my new garage addition, and am seeking input for the 36" Sterling shower enclosure.
1) Instruction state that back and side walls can be attached to bare studs or over water resistant wall board. Any opinions on which is best?
2) The base I plan to put directly on the cement floor. Instructions state that if base is installed on subfloor other than plywood, spun polyester landscape fabric can be placed under the base to prevent squeaking. I am thinking of applying expanding foam at the edges of the base for added support. Any problem with that?
3) The 2" drain comes out of the floor. The trap is in the slab. I bought an Oatey ABS shower base drain that enters the base from the top and is secured with a nut from the bottom of the base. To accommodate the nut, I would have to chisel a 4 1/2" dia x 1" deep around the drain pipe or put a 1" plywood subfloor with a 4 1/2" hole under it (that I would rather not do). Since the drain would be attached to the base, gluing the dain to the 2" pipe could be a pain, as the ABS glue dries rather quickly, I would only have one shot at properly setting the base on the drain. Do they make a drain receptor with female threads on the inside that could be glued to the 2" pipe afer the base is set, and with the drain grate screwing into that?

I thank you in advance for any learned opinions

skiberger · Mar 31, 2006, 04:26 PM

1) Set the tub base first then see how the sides line up. Your drain is the set point. You may get away with installing against bare studs or depending how the base sets, you may need to fir out the walls.
2) Don't know about the foam. What I used was rubber shower pan liner under the fibergalss shower base to prevent squeaks. (Had some lying around)
3) No clue, ask Tom (speedball) in the plumbing section.

speedball1 · Apr 1, 2006, 12:17 PM

Originally Posted by skiberger

1) Set the tub base first then see how the sides line up. Your drain is the set point. You may get away with installing against bare studs or depending how the base sets, you may need to fir out the walls.
2) Dont know about the foam. What I used was rubber shower pan liner under the fibergalss shower base to prevent squeaks. (Had some lying around)
3) No clue, ask Tom (speedball) in the plumbing section.

Ski,
I answered this over in plumbing and then moved it over here. Regards, tom

Dr D · Apr 2, 2006, 10:00 AM

Thank you both for the sage advice. I will try the rubber liner material, as it should even out slight imperfections in the speckled polyurethane floor coating that I had put down on the entire floor. I checked out the flange type drain at Home Depot. While there I found an Oatey "ABS No Calk Shower Base Drain" which uses a rubber caulking gasket, and a caulking nut for a tight seal. This requires a smaller clearance area around the drain pipe (less drilling and chiseling). Does this sound like a good option? Thanks again.