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    Furnace blower on - no Heat

    Asked Oct 13, 2007, 05:04 PM 20 Answers
    I have a Carrier furnace with an automatic ignition. The fan is constantly running but it is not heating.

    Additional Information:
    Model 58PAV: The Red Led Status light is rapidly flashing - which according to the manual means 'Line voltage (115VAC) polarity reversed. If twinned, refer to twinning kit instructions'. I do not have a clue what 'Line voltage (115VAC) polarity reversed... ' means. The Furnace was working fine last year and no one touched any wires -- how did the polarity get reversed?

    I will really appreciate if someone can explain to me what can I check and how?

    Thanks

    Last edited by aulakhbs; Oct 13, 2007 at 10:32 PM.
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    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 434
    Heating & Air Conditioning Expert
     
    #2

    Oct 13, 2007, 07:50 PM


    Usually this is a symptom of a burner problem. You could have a problem with the draft inducer fan motor or circuit board. It could also be as easy as a sensor. If it is spark ignition could be the safety control or spark box. You need to check the circuits with a meter to tell which part is bad.
    Helpful
    labman's Avatar
    labman Posts: 10,580, Reputation: 551
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    #3

    Oct 13, 2007, 07:58 PM
    Check the high limit switch. It may be signaling a false overheated condition. If so, the gas will shut off and the blower run until the condition clears. You may find some help with the switch in the sticky, https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/heatin...tml#post664441
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    T-Top's Avatar
    T-Top Posts: 1,871, Reputation: 100
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    #4

    Oct 13, 2007, 09:11 PM
    Sounds like you have a open limit or blown 24 volt fuse. On carrier, the blower runs all the time if a limit is open or if 24 volts is lost going to the control board.
    Helpful (1)
    lasan's Avatar
    lasan Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #5

    Mar 21, 2009, 08:39 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by aulakhbs View Post
    I have a Carrier furnace with an automatic ignition. The fan is constantly running but it is not heating.

    Additional Information:
    Model 58PAV: The Red Led Status light is rapidly flashing - which according to the manual means 'Line voltage (115VAC) polarity reversed. If twinned, refer to twinning kit instructions'. I do not have a clue what 'Line voltage (115VAC) polarity reversed ...' means. The Furnace was working fine last year and no one touched any wires -- how did the polarity get reversed?

    I will really appreciate if someone can explain to me what can I check and how?

    Thanks
    :confused:Hi,Have you fix your Carrier furnace?If you did could you tell me what is wrong with?I have a furnace same model with the you have,just about 6 yrs old it's has the same problem with your furnace.Would you tell me how to fix it?Thanks
    Helpful
    lasan's Avatar
    lasan Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #6

    Mar 21, 2009, 08:55 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by hvac1000 View Post
    Usually this is a symptom of a burner pr:confused:.You could have a problem with the draft inducer fan motor or circuit board. It could also be as easy as a sensor. If it is spark ignition could be the safety control or spark box. You need to check the circuits with a meter to tell which part is bad.
    :confused:Hi,could you help me.My furnace Carrier model 58pav about 6 yrs old,it has a problem cold air out and no heat,I check a blinking in furnace it blink 3 times stop and blink 1 more,after that it blinking the same (3times stop and 1 more) What is that problem.Thanks
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    Mikie D's Avatar
    Mikie D Posts: 45, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
     
    #7

    Mar 21, 2009, 06:38 PM

    Most of the time it's the high limit switch pull the wires of and ckeck with a volt meter to check continuity it should be made or just jump it out if it starts you know the limit switch is bad. Good luck Mikie D
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    KC13's Avatar
    KC13 Posts: 2,556, Reputation: 99
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    #8

    Mar 22, 2009, 05:30 AM
    The fault code you are seeing is either "13" or "31". Look for a label titled "SERVICE" on the front panel and follow the instructions at the top to determine which code is being displayed.
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    lasan's Avatar
    lasan Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    Mar 24, 2009, 10:36 AM
    :confused:Thanks for your adviser,If a fuse blown I need to change a new fuse but I do not know where is a fuse locate?Thanks
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    lasan's Avatar
    lasan Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #10

    Mar 24, 2009, 11:09 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by Mikie D View Post
    most of the time its the high limit switch pull the wires of and ckeck with a volt meter to check continuity it should be made or just jump it out if it starts you know the limit switch is bad. Good luck Mikie D
    Hi , I push a limit switch to reset and the heat came on but it runs about 2 -3 minutes and does not have anymore heat come out just a cold air?A red light blinks 3 short 1 long and stop.Thanks all for helping.
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    lasan's Avatar
    lasan Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #11

    Mar 24, 2009, 11:10 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by hvac1000 View Post
    Usually this is a symptom of a burner problem. You could have a problem with the draft inducer fan motor or circuit board. It could also be as easy as a sensor. If it is spark ignition could be the safety control or spark box. You need to check the circuits with a meter to tell which part is bad.
    Hi , I push a limit switch to reset and the heat came on but it runs about 2 -3 minutes and does not have anymore heat come out just a cold air?A red light blinks 3 short 1 long and stop.Thanks all for helping.
    Helpful
    Mikie D's Avatar
    Mikie D Posts: 45, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
     
    #12

    Mar 24, 2009, 04:01 PM

    Most high limit switches don't have resets look for another switch usually mounted behind the gas valve on the heat exchanger, look for a square metallic material with two prongs facing you and two wires on them if you jump those wires out and it runs you need to replace it.Good luck Mikie D
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    KC13's Avatar
    KC13 Posts: 2,556, Reputation: 99
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    #13

    Mar 25, 2009, 04:52 AM
    If I'm not mistaken, "31" is relative to a pressure switch fault. Check for a flue obstruction or clogged condensate drain tubes and/or trap. Try this: with the unit running, nudge the wire connections at the pressure switch. If you observe an immediate change in either operation (burners drop out) or the status LED (stops blinking), the pressure switch is faulty.
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    lasan's Avatar
    lasan Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #14

    Mar 25, 2009, 10:29 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by Mikie D View Post
    Most high limit switches dont have resets look for another switch usually mounted behind the gas valve on the heat exchanger, look for a square metalic material with two prongs facing you and two wires on them if you jump those wires out and it runs you need to replace it.Good luck Mikie D
    Hi Mike,Are you talking about DRAFT SAFEGUARD SWITCH on right hand side of RELEIF BOX and FLUECOLLAR?At begin it did not have a heat came out I Press that switch (DRAFT SAFE GUARD SWITCH AS OF MANUAL OF MODEL 58PAV TELL ME) and heat came out and run fine with HEAT,forgot to tell you I try this for 2 times and furnace ran fine with heat came out but 3rd time did not have any heat at all.
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    Mikie D's Avatar
    Mikie D Posts: 45, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
     
    #15

    Mar 25, 2009, 07:36 PM

    Does the draft motor keep running if it doesn't check voltage to it if it still has voltage its probably the motor also check to see if flame sensor is clean and making a good connection if the sensor is bad it won't keep the gas valve open and the unit will lock out until you shut power off then back on check that let me know. Mikie D
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    lasan's Avatar
    lasan Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #16

    Mar 25, 2009, 09:33 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by Mikie D View Post
    Does the draft motor keep running if it dosent check voltage to it if it still has voltage its probably the motor also check to see if flame sensor is clean and making a good connection if the sensor is bad it wont keep the gas valve open and the unit will lock out until you shut power off then back on check that let me know. Mikie D
    Hi Mike,A motor by Relief box,Draft Guard Switch still running after I turn off Gas Valve control(inside upflow Furnace),external Gas Valve,Electrical Switch and after 5 minuter I turn them on and set room thermostat slightly above room temp.Then furnace on but did not see any flame and I look on downflow Furnace I see LED light go 3 short 1 long if furnace does not run a LED light just stay on no blinking.Anyway How to know if Flam sensor is clean and making a good connection.I am not a handy man so I might asked you some dump question I am so sorry about that and thanks all of your help.
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    Mikie D's Avatar
    Mikie D Posts: 45, Reputation: 1
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    #17

    Mar 26, 2009, 09:15 AM

    Inside furnace cover tells u codes it will say what 3 short and 1 long means , as far as flame rod or sensor what ever u have ,one or two small scews holds assembly together look at it before u take it apart remember sensor has to be in flame to tell gas valve to stay open a little fine sandpaper cleaning the sesor and any rust areas on pilot or do you have hot surface igniter that will glow red in front of gas nozzle and if you do you have to see if it is cracked that's another problem you could have check code on cover and check these things and let me know. Mikie D
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    Mikie D's Avatar
    Mikie D Posts: 45, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
     
    #18

    Mar 26, 2009, 09:19 AM
    Also remember if unit starts on reset put a small wire on pressure switc terminals after it starts and if it keeps running that's your problem I don't know if you did that let us know. Mikie D
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    lasan's Avatar
    lasan Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #19

    Mar 26, 2009, 09:38 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by Mikie D View Post
    also remember if unit starts on reset put a small wire on pressure switc terminals after it starts and if it keeps running thats your problem I dont know if you did that let us know. Mikie D
    I did not do that.What do you mean a small wire on pressure switch (A switch with 2 red wire face toward of my face).What you mean is use a small wire run from this Red wire to another Red wire?
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    Mikie D's Avatar
    Mikie D Posts: 45, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
     
    #20

    Mar 26, 2009, 01:02 PM

    The pressure switch is a round diaphram with a vacumn hose going to it any wire is good even a piece of tstat wire just strip both ends and after the furnace draft motor starts running, immediately jump out the pressure swicth and see if it stays running. Mikie D
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