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    Nikkor's Avatar
    Nikkor Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Jan 7, 2010, 10:24 PM
    Amana high efficiency 80 furnace
    I have an Amanda High Efficiency 80 gas furnace. Gas only burns for about 4 or 5 seconds then shuts off. I have to reset everything but it just does the same thing... any ideas ?
    builderbob1's Avatar
    builderbob1 Posts: 41, Reputation: 2
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    #2

    Jan 8, 2010, 12:33 AM

    Try a new flame sensor switch
    wmproop's Avatar
    wmproop Posts: 3,749, Reputation: 91
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    #3

    Jan 8, 2010, 04:16 AM
    You hould be able to juct clean the flame senser instead of replacing,, remove and clean with steel wool or very fine sandpaper
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
    Heating & Air Conditioning Expert
     
    #4

    Jan 8, 2010, 04:17 AM
    More than likely you will NOT need a new flame sensor. It just needs to be cleaned. Use fine sand paper or steel wood.
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    Nikkor's Avatar
    Nikkor Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Jan 8, 2010, 09:38 AM
    Thanks everyone but there is no sensor like the one in the picture above... next to the igniter (which glows fine) there is a brown boxlike thing about 1.5 " long by about .75" wide and .75" high. Could that be some swort of flame sensor ?

    Thanks again
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
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    #6

    Jan 8, 2010, 10:45 AM
    Sounds like an old White Rodgers setup. Can you post a picture?
    Nikkor's Avatar
    Nikkor Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Jan 8, 2010, 11:05 AM



    Here is what I have... the igniter glows fine and the gas ignites but shuts off after 5 or 6 seconds... anyone know what this brown box is?
    Nikkor's Avatar
    Nikkor Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
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    #8

    Jan 8, 2010, 11:08 AM
    Here are a few pictures... hope this helps
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    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
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    #9

    Jan 8, 2010, 11:27 AM
    Post the part numbers on that part please. It is a White Rodgers part but they made a few different ones.
    Nikkor's Avatar
    Nikkor Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
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    #10

    Jan 8, 2010, 11:34 AM

    On the bracket is... 960-23 then on the right side of the bracket is... 11002801

    Can this style be updated to the heat sensor (stick like) ?

    Thanks for all your help.
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
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    #11

    Jan 8, 2010, 11:56 AM
    I hope you do not hate me after this post but you have a (WR radiant sensor ignition system). Parts are NLA which means you are in for a expensive conversion and that has to be done by a REAL Professional that knows what they are doing. This is not something you want to play with. Usually both the gas valve and a new circuit board along with ignitor and sensor are needed to fix it.

    What you may try. Clean the flame sense area in the W/R part. Sometimes it gets all gunked up and will not sense the flame. The terminals on the gas valve have been know to get dirt or loose connection. Take those off ONE at a time and use contact cleaner or fine sand paper or steel wool to clean the Male terminals. REMEMBER one at a time then put the wire back on the one you removed. This is so you do not mix up the wiring.

    See if this helps and make sure the power is off while cleaning the items. BTW I have used windex successfully years ago cleaning the window on thet W/R sensor.

    Post back with results and I will search around for more info in my old catalogues.
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
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    #12

    Jan 8, 2010, 11:57 AM
    BTW easy on that ignitor it is fragil and will break.
    Nikkor's Avatar
    Nikkor Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
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    #13

    Jan 8, 2010, 12:07 PM

    Thanks again... yes I saw that there is an update kit for about $250.00 but was hoping the old part was still available. The update just looks like a new sensor and circuit board. Looks like they use the old gas valve...

    I'll try cleaning the contacts as you mention... funny it was working fine until I put in a new induction motor. Old motor had bearing problems and it made a loud grinding noise until it just stopped and of course there was a new style blower motor assy needed at about $160.00. I guess it's cheaper than a whole new furnace.
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
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    #14

    Jan 8, 2010, 12:09 PM
    Good luck with your project.
    Nikkor's Avatar
    Nikkor Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
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    #15

    Jan 8, 2010, 12:20 PM

    OK... Thanks again for your time...
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
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    #16

    Jan 8, 2010, 12:55 PM
    No problem post back with your results.
    AinOk's Avatar
    AinOk Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #17

    Nov 14, 2012, 12:57 PM
    I had the same problem. Based on these posts, I cleaned my unit's flame sensor and the furnace is working again. Thanks so much!!
    chrisquina's Avatar
    chrisquina Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #18

    Mar 4, 2017, 04:06 PM
    I had the same problem and history described by Nikkor. I replaced the induction motor just as Nikkor ddi and a few months later I am getting flame out and suspected part 11002801 just like Nikkor. I got a hunch that my induction motor might be sucking too hard making 11002801 think there was a flame out. I loosened the hose to the pressure sensor to allow more air into the induction motor and wolla the darn thing works again. You can visibly see less strain (pull from air) on the flames. I plan to just punch a few holes on the hose as a permanent fix. I hope this helps. In short, the new induction motor is drawing too much air across the flames causing part (sensor) 11002801 to think there is a flame out. The sensor is fine - fix the induction motor. Hope this helps. My unit is a Trane model TUJ100A960A1.
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,379, Reputation: 2280
    Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
     
    #19

    Mar 4, 2017, 07:01 PM
    Hey chris, did you notice the post is 7 years old?

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