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    bandreasen's Avatar
    bandreasen Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Oct 30, 2008, 02:51 AM
    Sloped cedar siding repair
    I have a cedar sided wall where the clapboards were installed at angles (giving a chevron appearance). There was significant rot along the corner cap boards and sheathing underneath that I presume was in part due to water running down the sloped siding and eventually getting behind the siding and in contact with the sheathing.
    My question is how can you repair this (without changing the entire wall to a traditional horizontal layout) so that water is directed away from the house enclosure?
    Thanks
    -b
    KBC's Avatar
    KBC Posts: 2,550, Reputation: 487
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    #2

    Nov 9, 2008, 07:09 AM

    At first blush, I would have to say the original installer should have installed flashing where the water would be drawn to,eliminating the problem from the start.

    A possible repair for this could be done, at the edges that have damage,removal of the rotten wood,removal of the nails behind the siding near to the rot,and installing either ice and water shield,flashing... etc behind the good wood and over to the area to be replaced,around the corner would be warrented.

    Replace the undersiding/sill plate etc with treated wood.

    Another thought,is the corner cap over the top of the siding, or does the siding butt right up to the corner posts?

    Back to you,

    KBC
    bandreasen's Avatar
    bandreasen Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Nov 10, 2008, 08:18 AM
    That's what I did.

    Basically, the siding butted up to the corner caps, so I removed the corner caps, existing siding and the sheathing underneath where it was rotted. Just in case, I cut the horizontal edges of the sheathing at a 45 angle (sloping away from the interior) and replaced the sheathing. I covered the sheathing with ice/water shield, extending the coverage 1' beyond the new sheathing joints, wrapping the corner as well. The original tyvec was then laid over the ice shield and then the wood siding and corner caps replaced.

    In addition, I've decided to cault the seams (against the corner caps, etc) with some acryillic caulking along the upper edges to further encourage run-off from getting under the siding at these low points.

    In the end - I've decided that trying to create decorative exterior finishes takes more then giving a protractor to a traditional carpenter. While I suspect it may be able to be done properly, I will never buy a house where I did not personally supervise it's application.

    Thanks for the validation!!
    -b

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