We just bought a new mid-range treadmill rated for 11 amps. Our house is relatively new (about 2 years) and the electrical was checked for code by a home inspector when we purchased the house.

The treadmill manual stated it was required that it be plugged into a single outlet surge suppressor (which we did) into a 2 plug outlet that is grounded (which we did).

The room in which the treadmill is plugged in also has other electronics, TV, stereo, etc. plugged in as well as a ceiling light on the same breaker (one breaker for the room). The breaker was a 15 amp arc fault breaker (spare bedroom/media room - arc fault required by code).

Intermittantly, not when first powered on, but when treadmill belt starts running, the treadmill will pop the breaker for the room. This occurs randomly and with no pattern. It occurs plugged in with AND without the surge suppresor as well as NOT plugged in with the surge suppressor but plugged in with a heavy duty outdoor extension cord (we were trying the other outlets in the room). It occurs when the TV and cable box are on, when they are off and when they are completely unplugged from their outlets.

The store sent a repair man who checked the treadmill and said that it's "continuity" was fine, the treadmill was correctly grounded and the treadmill itself was not the cause. He recommended that either the outlet itself was bad (we checked it with an outlet tester and it was fine) or that the room needed a 20 amp circuit.

A friend who was an electrician's apprentice said it was due to the arc fault breaker and that we should change that to a standard 15 amp breaker until we sell the home and put the arc fault breaker back at that time to stay within code.

The home improvement store electric department person suggested putting in a 20 amp arc fault breaker to stay within code. I thought this was not possible as that circuit has 14 gauge wiring - he stated this was fine.

Please help! We are not certain where next to turn and want the "fix" to be safe for us and our home but be able to use the treadmill without constantly tripping the breaker and $500 worth of electrical work. (quote we received to come out and assess and resolve the issue)

Thank you.

11 AMPS on a 15 AMP breaker, plus a television, stereo, lights etc?

Sounds like there is just too much on the circuit, and the breaker is doing its job. Try plugging the treadmill on its own dedicated outlet, or on another stronger outlet, such as a kitchen outlet, they are normally rated at 20 AMPS.

Don't replace the 15 AMP breaker with a 20 AMP breaker. Doing so poses a fire hazard.

I hope that apprentice learns something besides giving bad advice before he gets his license. And never listen to a store clerk for electrical advice, unless he can pull a license out of his pocket.

Did the repair tech measure the amp draw to be sure it is running within specs? Possible the belt is too tight causing the motor to overload.

Does the unit require a 15 or 20 amp circuit? This should be listed in the manual, and the tech should have known what is required, not just guess that the unit needs a 20 amp circuit.

ARC Fault breakers are somewhat new technology, and many brands have had their issues with being too sensitive or weak.

But a 11 amp draw motor is allowed to have a breaker up to a maximum of 250 percent of nameplate amps. This unit really needs a 20 amp circuit.

If you have your heart set on it staying in the bedroom it will need a 20 AMp Arc Fault breaker and separate circuit. Or as andrew mentions, try relocating the unit to an existing 20 amp rated circuit.

To answer ?s raised by tkrussell:
The manual made no mention of requiring a certain AMP rating for the outlet or circuit it was plugged into. Other than requiring the surge suppressor, the manual said nothing regarding the electric setup of the room or house.

The tech did check and the treadmill was only drawing 10-12 amps on different cycles/speeds. But again, the circuit was tripping even when nothing other than the treadmill was even plugged in on that circuit. It sopunds like you are saying that an 11 amp draw still needs a 20 amp circuit though. The repair man said it was the arc fault breaker and the initial draw being seen by the arc fault as a surge even with the supressor. He said they were "sensitive".

It really is not a matter of having my heart set on keeping it in the bedroom as much as it is that this is the only spare room with enough floor room for this size of a piece of equipment. Also, I checked our panel and other than the kitchen and specific appliances (water heater, AC, etc.) no other circuits have greater than a 15 amp rating even if I could move furniture in other rooms. So all rooms other than the kitchen are on 15 amp circuits.

Our neighbor is a contractor and was over yesterday. He brought over a 20 amp arc fault circuit and put it into the slot in the panel where the 15 amp arc fault breaker had been. He said we had 14 - 2 (?) wiring and that was fine, he had it connected to 20 amp breakers in all of the rooms in his house and this met code?? Is this potentially going to cause a fire hazard as suggested above? Do we need to remove it immediately? It sounds like he too gave us poor advice. Unfortunately, it has solved the problem.

We really need the equipment to help with physical therapy but cannot afford to rewire that room to have it. I contacted 3 different electricians and fees for connecting that outlet to a separate circuit not including drywall and painting work were $450 to $800 as we have no "extra" slots wired for greater than 15 amps in our panel.

Any suggestions are appreciated although it sounds like the treadmill will need to be returned :-( I agree, for laypersons like myself, this requirement really should be stressed before one buys!

The "contractor", if licensed in the USA, should know better. Or is this the apprentice you mentioned? I did not know an apprentice could be a contractor. In any case, the advice is wrong, and the changing of the breaker for the bedroom from 15 amp, with #14 wire, to a 20 Amp is wrong.

Let him wire his house anyway he chooses, for normal routine branch circuits in a home #14 wire can only be connected to a 15 Amp breaker.

Don't get nervous right away, there is not an immediate danger, as long as the circuit is used with the normal load that is usually on it. If you run the treadmill, along with all the other load in the bedroom, and since there is now a 20 amp breaker, here is where you risk having more than 15 amps on the #14 wire.

I was going to mention in my previous post, but thought this would be too confusing, an appliance with a motor with 11 amp draw, can actually have #14 wire and a 20 amp circuit breaker, ONLY if the circuit is DEDICATED for that appliance. You bedroom circuit does not apply, since all the other outlets are on the circuit and it is not dedicated just for the treadmill.

The bracnh circuit is sized by taking the running amps and multipling by 125%, so 11 amps x1.25= 13.75 amps, so #14 wire, for that appliance is fine. The breaker can be anywhere from 15 amp, and is allowed to be more than 250% of the running amps, or rated 27.5 amps, and round up to the next standard size breaker or fuse, therefore, 30 amps. What I am mentioning is a technicality, and not utilized very often for small amp rated circuits and appliances. Perhaps, you can see the cost benefit if the load was a 100 HP motor, the wire size can be much lower thatn a breaker size, when for a specific motor.

Yes, as I stated AFCI breakers tend to be sensitive. Since the unit does start and run for a while, the breaker should not be seeing an arc, and should be tripping from overload. If you stated the breaker tripped as soon as the motor was started, then I would suspect the AFCI breaker is tripping due to the arc that may be created inside the switch, at the contacts. But, if I read your post correctly, this is not the case.

Since this treadmill is for a medical condition, will the cost of the unit be tax deductible? And if so, possibly the cost to install a separate circuit to operate the unit safely would also be deductible. Just a thought.

I am not sure what you mean by we have no "extra" slots wired for greater than 15 amps in our panel.. If there are any empty slots, and only one more is needed for one 120 volt circuit, then any breaker can be installed in that slot.

If the panel is truly filled with breakers, perhaps, the panel can accept a tandem, or half size breaker. These are available from most panel/breaker manufacturers, to allow two circuits in one full size breaker slot.

Seems none of the contractors that looked at this to provide an estimate did not mention this. Either, the panel cannot accept the tandem breaker, or, which I hope not is the case, ignored this possibity, and only quoted replacing the panel to gain more breaker slots.

What brand panel do you have? Can you provide a model number? Usually listed on a label on the inside of the door. A picture may help also.

Should you hire anyone to do electrical work in your home, be sure they are licensed, if required in your state/city, be sure they apply for a permit, and have the work inspected, ( I would be interested in your local inspector's decision about a 20 amp breaker on #14 wire for a general purpose branch circuit), and be sure they carry the proper liability and worker comp insurances.


This is the best I can advise, I really believe the tandam breaker is your solution to adding a new circuit to your panel, but you need a good contractor to be willing to look closely at the panel to advice you correctly, and provide a reasonable estimate without tryiing to upsell you something you may not need.

If you can provide the panel info, and/or a picture, I would be glad to assist.

We just had a basement refinish done and the AFCI was required for the electrical. My contractor saw my treadmill in the basement and advised that I would never be able to use my treadmill with an AFCI reliably. What he DID do was to give my treadmill its own circuit so it will not shut off lights , clocks and other electronic equipment. He was right - the treadmill trips the breaker about 50% of the time. Fortunately, nothing else is being shut down unexpectedly (Like my daughter's computer) and the sub-panel where the breaker resides is closeby. I never had this issue before the AFCI's were installed in my house. As side note, the basement refinish required a completely new electrical panel with AFCIs to be installed in place of my existing main panel along with a new sub-panel in the basement. This also required a new buried cable from the street to my main panel. Make sure you check the electrical code in your community before starting a project like this!

Thanks for the feedback and info. Good example of what should happen when an addition of livable space is needed. It changes the load calcs of the existing service, and causes the home to the brought up to current code.

I think treadmills use motors with brushes, and AFCI devices see the arcing at the brushes as a problem.

Just adding my own personal experience with a similar problem, in case this information is of any use to others in the future. I'm not claiming to be any expert, just a homeowner who has spent a lot of time researching this issue online.

I've had a Sole F80 treadmill for over 3 years - works great, never had any problems. I lived in a 1992-built house, and the treadmill receptacle was on a normal 15-amp circuit. Then I moved in 2010 to a new house. The house was built in 2008, and the original builder also finished off a 3rd floor bonus room in 2010 (using the same electrician). All the bedroom and bonus room circuits have 15 amp AFCI circuit breakers (everything is Eaton Cutler Hammer), per the code since it's a new house. My treadmill trips those AFCI circuits (15 amps, AFCI) every time - I have it on the 3rd floor, but I also ran an extension cord to various other recepticles on the 3rd and 2nd floors with the same result. It worked fine only if I ran an extension cord downstairs to a non-AFCI circuit, but that's not a realistic solution as I have small children and a wife who doesn't want to see extension cords strung all over the house. My builder's electrician told me I was out of luck, that he's seen motor-based equipment like treadmills trip AFCI circuits, and there's nothing he can do since the code prevents him from putting a non-AFCI circuit in. Fair enough, I can't ask him to risk his license... but I'm not about to write off a $1500 treadmill.

So I did a lot of reading online about others who had similar problems. I found several instances where people had put SOMETHING in between the treadmill and the receptacle that solved the problem. In some cases, that SOMETHING was just an extension cord; in other cases, it was a portable GFCI (don't understand that one, as treadmills should also trip a GFCI); and in other cases it was a surge supressor. The working theory is that whatever that SOMETHING is, it somehow masks or filters the treadmill's arcing signal (arcing because that's how a treadmill motor works) enough that the AFCI doesn't trip over it. I finally had luck by putting a specific surge supressor in between the treadmill and the AFCI receptacle. Run-of-the-mill power strips didn't work. Next a surge supressor with a 'noise filter' didn't work - that 'filter' was EMI/RFI noise reduction of up to 42 decibels, according to the packaging. Being stubborn and house-poor, I tried one last filter before resorting to expensive electrical re-work. The last filter was designed for home theater, with a stated EMI/RFI filter of up to 75 decibels, from a frequency range of 150kHz to 1MHz. It was a Belkin brand. I've also seen a Tripp-Lite brand (ISOBAR models) that has similar EMI/RFI filtering, but I couldn't find that in stock locally. So if you've got a similar problem, pay close attention to the level of EMI filtering in a surge supressor, and look for something better than 40 decibels.

THANK YOU!! My treadmill always tripped the circuit breaker in the basement knocking out the lights. Because of your post I purchased a Tripp Lite ISOBAR 8ULTRA and now my Sole F80 Treadmill doesn't knock out the basement lights anymore! Thank you so much! I can run with the lights on! Lol

Like Ared2006, I had the same problem, brand new treadmill in my new house that was just finished in Dec 2010. My bedroom circuits are all AFCI breakers and sure enough kept tripping when attempting to use my Sears Pro-form Treadmill. I bought the tripp-lite surge suppressor you mentioned and the treadmill works fine!
Somehow I knew that I could not have been the only person in the USA with this problem, got to love the internet!

Thanks for the help
Keep on smiling
DOC

Took the advice of JCase and put a media center surge protector up and Voilà! No more tripped breakers! Thanks! :D

I read through this thread and see lots of good info. I have the same problem - Treadmill poppoing 15 amp breaker when I turn it on. My owners guide calls for a single plug Surge Suppressor which I went out and bought and did not help. I talke dto my neighbor about my problem and he told me he had the same problem until he put on a surge supporessor. So, being the troubleshooter I used to be from way back, I decided to borrow his supporessor before I spent more money for nothing. No Luck!

Luckily enough his suppressor has a 10 foot cord so I took it and plugged it into anoter room next door. No Luck! I also made sure everything else in these two rooms was unplugged that way nothing was on the circuits except the treadmill.

The I decided to plug the treadmill into the bathroom which has a GFCI outlet and guess what. It worked. Not I am truly confused because my book says not to plug the Treadmill into a GFCI because it will not run. Could it ba as simple as installing a GFCI outlet in the bedroom?

Thanks,

Frustrated

Is the bathroom circuit a 20 Amp?

Is the 15 amp breaker that trips an Arc Fault?

What is the amp or wattage rating of the treadmill?

Sometimes the best solutions to problems come from intuitive thinking and not from so-called EXPERTS.
AFCI and GFCI circuits can be problematic for MANY electricians. The AFCI-GFCI devices are designed to trip/open under potentially dangerous conditions (abnormal current patterns).
There are so many variables and factors in play. These devices have probably saved countless lives (we never here about), so don't disable or override them. Under the right conditions, electricity can produce un-anticipated results; many electricians now this. Never exceed the current rating of a circuit!
Most motors have brushes that produce sparks and arcs as they start/stop and change speeds; this can easily cause a problem with AFCI/GFCI circuits. Refrig-microwave-any motor device... Spark producing-inductive appliances can cause an unnecessary trip. Be safe

Quoted rom jcase "The last filter was designed for home theater, with a stated EMI/RFI filter of up to 75 decibels, from a frequency range of 150kHz to 1MHz. It was a Belkin brand. I've also seen a Tripp-Lite brand (ISOBAR models) that has similar EMI/RFI filtering "

Using a surge suppressor with the specs listed above will likely fix the problem. I also spoke to a buddy of mine after I bought the surge suppressor and he told me that if the arc fault breaker was replaced with a conventional breaker that would also likely work. You would NOT be up to code if you did it that way however, that is why I stayed with the suppressor, it works and it does not compromise your wiring from being up to code. The arc fault breakers were created because of too many fires started by people running many devices off 1 extension cord, then also repeatedly either walk on the cord or run the wheels of a computer chair over the cord causing it to fray. Eventually it would cause an electrical fire! If the cord gets frayed and it is on an acr fault breaker it will trip. At least that is what I was told by my friend who is an electrician!

Hope that helps
PEACE
DOC

I have a question for "jcase." What was the particular Belkin surge suppressor that you used with your Sole F80? What's the model number? I am trying to locate one using the description that you gave but I can't find it. The Tripp Lite suppressors come with a huge long cord which I prefer not to have so I want to see what the Belkin one is like. Thanks.

My issue was similar jcase and ared2006, my new Nordic track incline treadmill was tripping the breaker in our house built in 2008. I searched the internet and came across this string and it was extremely helpful. I purchased the Tripp Lite isobar4ultra. It really works!! If you are having any electrical problems with your treadmill get one of these. It would be helpful for retailers to share this information with their customers so we all don't have to go through this aggravation. Thank you to jcase and ared2006 and all who have contributed to spreading this knowledge.

I had the same problem with the Sole F63 I bought. It would trip my AFCI breakers every time. I tried several surge protectors and the one that finally worked for me was the Belkin BE112230-08. Glad I found this post. I was about to give up and sell the treadmill!

I have a home built in 2010 and just bought a treadmill today. Same issue as above. Turned it on fine - as soon as the belt started - lights out! I am going to buy one of the Tripp Lite Surge Suppressor's tomorrow and see if that does the trick. The manual does say to put it on a surge suppressor. I was confusing that with a surge protector I think. Doesn't sound like the same thing. I'll let you all know how it works out :) Thanks

If you get one with the specs I quoted, it should work fine!
Peace
DOC