My 220 volt submersable well pump stopped working. We took the capacitor in to be checked one day and it was fine. The next day we took the relay in and it checked out. The following day I pressed on one of the wires that goes to capacitor and the well came on.

The wire was old so I knew it should be replaced. I went out to get the wire and saw that the capacitor was blown. Liquid dripping and a hole between the prongs.

I then went into town and got a new capacitor and replacement wires. I installed the capacitor and wires to the diagram that I made two years ago (and re-affirmed it was correct before taking the parts into town).

We run the well off a generator. I started the generator and waited a couple of minutes and then flipped the switch and the well started pumping. I can tell because the engine bogs down when the well comes on. After 2 or 3 minutes the well went off (there is no pressure in the tank). I shut everything down and found that the capacitor was very hot.

After it cooled down we flipped the switch again and I went and listened by the relay. It was clicking like crazy.

Why would the capacitor get so hot and is the relay supposed to click a lot?

I do have 240 volts coming from the generator and going to the well.

Thank you. I would really like to take a shower (I'm probably not the only one that wants me too).

You can tell the pump is working by bogging?
Does it pump water?

Yes. The pump was pumping. The relay is rapidly clicking on and off and the capaciter is getting very hot.

Check all the connections from the source of the power to the relay, the switch may also be worn out.

If the relay is doing as you describe it could cause the problems you have had. If the relay is good then the problem is probably that there is not a good conductive path for the current. The current is arcing across a bad connection and only energizing the relay when it arcs. The most likely causes of that are the two I have given you. I'd bet on a worn switch but checking the connections costs you nothing so start there.

I will check the connections and take the relay in tomorrow.

I take it the relay should not be going on and off a lot.

I would recommend replacing the whole control box. As a rule, I never replace a start cap without replacing the relay. Too many call backs later on prompted me to always replace them together. If it is the type of control box that just snaps on with 5 blades that plug in, the blades may have loose prongs.

After you replace the box, you can test amp draw on the pump with an amp tester. Test it on the wires coming from the pressure switch leading to the control box. You should have about 9.5 amps on each line.
Al

Yes. It is a pretty simple design. The relay is a GE 3ARR3EA9V5. There are 3 prongs that plug in with #1 going to the Cap.

I did look at the prongs on the control box where the relay gets plugged in and one is loose and will spin around. Could this actually be a cause of this problem?

Does the box look like the one in the picture? If so, what I was referring to is the 5 blades that snap in as you press the front cover on the control box.

The loose blade on the relay, that you are referring to very well could be a problem. It could be an indication of a loose connection inside of the relay.

If this is a picture of your box, you can just buy another and snap the old cover off, and the new cover on. All of the controls, except the power strip, are in the cover. If your old back of the box is in bad shape, you'll have to replace the whole box.

Mine doesn't look nearly that nice. The cover say's Submersible Motor Control - SA SPM4 - Model 82.4566904. It came from Clovis California.

Does it only have one capacitor and a relay?

Yes. That is it.

If you have already checked the wiring for 220-240 volts at the control box, and if you have already tightened all of your wiring... Save yourself some trouble. Replace the control box. In our area, you can buy a 1hp sub control box for about $60 at the local building supplies. It will take you about an hour to replace it. But, then you'll eliminate that as a possible problem.

Make sure that when you get a new box that the start capacitor is in the same range as the one you are replacing. In other words, take your old start cap with you when you go. Nearly all 1 hp subs use the same cap. But, it doesn't hurt to check since you would be changing brands of control boxes.
Al

Just to save you the trouble. I'm pretty sure that the control box described above has a 86-108 UF 220 volt capacitor in it. If your capacitor is pretty close to that size, you should be fine replacing the box with either the Franklin Electric or Pentek brand as described above.

If your capacitor is much higher than that range, you may have to go up to a 1-1/2 hp control box. That box may or not be available at the local building supply.

Keep us posted.
Al

The control box is a 108-120 MFD. My girlfriend went into town and bought a relay today. I didn't realize I could get one at the hardware store. It came with brand new wires. I fixed the loose connection in the box and put in the new relay and wires. Flipped the switch and the well started and stopped a couple of times (really bogged down the generator) but has been working ever since.

Good, glad it worked. Iwould recommend that you test the amps draw to see if it is drawing too much amperage, If you have an amp meter, or can borrow one, you can test the amp draw. It just clamps around the wires. You would put it on each of the lines from your generator to the pressure switch. Each leg should test at about 9.5 amps.

If it is drawing too high of amps, it tells you that you haven't found the problem yet. You only put a band-aid on it. If it is drawing high amps, it will go out again soon. Unfortunately, it is usually an indication that the pump is nearly worn out.

FYI- The capacitor is a little larger than many 1hp caps. If you ever replace the whole control box, use a 1.5hp box. I frequently do that anyway. It is a better constructed box, with built-in reset overloads.

Good Luck,
Al

I ran into the same problem I wonder what hardware store where you ble to find the relay?

"I fixed the loose connection in the box"
I believe was your main problem, loose connections generate heat, and can cause a relay to chatter.