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    Dougdequasie's Avatar
    Dougdequasie Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    May 18, 2013, 10:10 AM
    My shed light keeps blowing seconds after I put it in
    I have just had all new wiring threw out my entire house an ran to my shed "Was also rewired" an I went out to put a light in yesterday an it stayed on for about 10 min then blew.. I figured maybe something was in the light fixture so this morning I went out an cleaned it, put a bulb in an it blew immediately, then I took it completely apart an cleaned it then tried again. The light stayed lite for about 5 min then blew again... Any ideas?
    donf's Avatar
    donf Posts: 5,679, Reputation: 582
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    #2

    May 18, 2013, 11:41 AM
    Call whoever installed the wiring and have them verify the voltage level at the outlet and the proper installation of the circuit.
    Dougdequasie's Avatar
    Dougdequasie Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    May 18, 2013, 01:06 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by donf View Post
    Call whoever installed the wiring and have them verify the voltage level at the outlet and the proper installation of the circuit.
    I tried giving him a call first but it says his number has been disconnected =( I also looked in the fuse box an it's the older style round fuses an there are 2 30amp fuses in it... Do you think 30amp is to high an maybe that could be my problem since its all brand new wiring?
    ma0641's Avatar
    ma0641 Posts: 15,675, Reputation: 1012
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    #4

    May 18, 2013, 01:20 PM
    The amperage wouldn't do anything, the voltage would. Sounds like you have a 240 line somehow connected to the light. We don't know what AWG wire was installed but if it is 14, you need a 15 AMP and if it is 12 you can have a 15 or 20 AMP.
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    Dougdequasie Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    May 18, 2013, 01:24 PM
    So either way it shouldn't be 30 correct? Its just weird that the light will either blow immediately or a few minutes after I turn it on... That's what I do not get but I'm going to go buy a 15 amp fuse and ill let you know how that works out
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    ma0641 Posts: 15,675, Reputation: 1012
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    #6

    May 18, 2013, 01:26 PM
    For a light, you will not overload the circuit, even if you have a 30 amp. It could be 2 X30 Amp fuses to a subpanel, that would make sense. Can you post a picture of how the wires is used?
    Dougdequasie's Avatar
    Dougdequasie Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    May 18, 2013, 01:33 PM
    You want a pic of the fuse box in my shed?
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    Dougdequasie Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #8

    May 18, 2013, 01:40 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by dougdequasie View Post
    you want a pic of the fuse box in my shed?
    Name:  picture001 (2).jpg
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    Dougdequasie's Avatar
    Dougdequasie Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    May 18, 2013, 01:43 PM
    If that's not what you wanted let me know.. And thank you for your help by the way!
    ma0641's Avatar
    ma0641 Posts: 15,675, Reputation: 1012
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    #10

    May 18, 2013, 03:13 PM
    Boy, inspectors would have fun! It is very difficult to see how the wires are connected. This is a subpanel from the main box. There should be a hot to each fuse and a neutral to the long middle bar but it also looks like a black is connected to the neutral along with a ground. The right side behind the slot is a hot but I don't see it on the left side. This box could be set up for 2 X 120 VAC or 1X 240VAC. I do not feel comfortable telling you what to connect or disconnect just from a picture. The light circuit should have a hot black, a white neutral and a ground, the black controlled by a wall switch. Just looking at the wiring, I appears to have a hot white and a hot black so I am guessing you have 240 VAC to the light. You need to have someone look at this and measure voltages. Those fuses should not exceed 15 AMP. Sorry I can't help more but do let us know what is ultimately discovered.
    donf's Avatar
    donf Posts: 5,679, Reputation: 582
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    #11

    May 18, 2013, 04:10 PM
    You just had all the wiring replaced, why? Please tell me that an electrical permit was pulled before you had the work done!

    A 30 amp fuse or breaker require a #10 AWG cable. The cable in your picture looks like #14 AWG cable. If it is, then you have a very serious code violation.

    Next, the bare copper ground conductors are also connected to Neutral Bar, another serious code violation.

    Are you sure the fellow who did this work was a licensed electrician?

    If I were to go through the nightmare of upgrading my wiring, I would certainly send the additional monies to switch to breaker panel boards.

    I seriously suggest you contact either an State, County or Local Electrical Inspector and/or a licensed electrician to check your entire system for other code violations.
    Dougdequasie's Avatar
    Dougdequasie Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #12

    May 18, 2013, 04:51 PM
    Ok I will
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    Dougdequasie Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #13

    May 18, 2013, 04:52 PM
    I tried replacing the fuses to 15 amp an still blew the light.. its not popping any breakers or anything so yea I'm stumped also.. Guess imma have to pay someone else what I have already paid 1 guy to do but only hopefully right this time!
    Dougdequasie's Avatar
    Dougdequasie Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #14

    May 18, 2013, 05:01 PM
    I had all the wiring replaced because we remodeled the entire house an had all the wiring redone in there so why not have my shed done also.. All I know is I paid him to do the wiring while I was out of town so what he did/or didn't do I have no idea
    Dougdequasie's Avatar
    Dougdequasie Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #15

    May 18, 2013, 05:03 PM
    I am not a electrician, That's why I am here lol trying something new because paying someone obviously has got me no where.
    ma0641's Avatar
    ma0641 Posts: 15,675, Reputation: 1012
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    #16

    May 18, 2013, 06:09 PM
    We can usually help but long distance by photo is hard.

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