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    ptnoble's Avatar
    ptnoble Posts: 42, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
     
    #1

    Sep 17, 2007, 06:18 PM
    Romex to spa box
    I am mounting a spa box on a new exterior wall. I have 6-3 +gnd romex wire running from the panel to the box. I want to bring the wire from inside the wall right into the back of the spa box. Is this okay?

    I have noticed some spa boxes have knock-outs on the back while others do not. If I do not do what I am suggesting above I would need a short piece of liquid tight to go from where the wire comes out of the wall until it goes into the box. Right? If I were to do this, I am not sure a) what holds the liquid tight to the wall and b) whether the romex sheath should be stripped off the wire before feading them into the liquid tight tubing.
    tkrussell's Avatar
    tkrussell Posts: 9,659, Reputation: 725
    Uber Member
     
    #2

    Sep 18, 2007, 02:49 AM
    The boxes with knockouts on the back, or side for that matter, note that they are located close to the bottom. If one has knockouts built in on the back you may do as you propose.

    If the box does not have backside knockouts, there may be something in the way to prevent knockouts being there. Check with the manufacturer if a knockout can be cut into the back. May be easier just to get one that already has the knockouts.

    Most outdoor enclosures will have backside knockouts for the purpose of entering the interior cable into the backside.
    ptnoble's Avatar
    ptnoble Posts: 42, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
     
    #3

    Oct 9, 2007, 07:34 AM
    A follow up question: The Spa Box I got has been used before (with conduit to top and bottom). What do I use to cover the knock outs on top and bottom since I will be bringing Romex in from the back?
    tkrussell's Avatar
    tkrussell Posts: 9,659, Reputation: 725
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    #4

    Oct 9, 2007, 01:05 PM
    At a electrical supply, you can ask for knockout blanks, sometimes called "pennys". There are knockout blanks made for each trade size, 1/2", 3/4", 1", etc. The smaller ones push in and snap, larger ones, say for 2" and up maybe two pieces with a nut and bolt.
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
    Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
     
    #5

    Oct 9, 2007, 02:12 PM
    Kevin, could you remind us of the GFI requirements for spas and the location/distance for disconnects?
    labman's Avatar
    labman Posts: 10,580, Reputation: 551
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    #6

    Oct 9, 2007, 02:23 PM
    If you are more comfortable shopping the big box stores and hardwares, they have the blanks too, also the threaded ones.
    tkrussell's Avatar
    tkrussell Posts: 9,659, Reputation: 725
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    #7

    Oct 9, 2007, 02:58 PM
    Thanks Labman, I meant to mention those stores.

    Ballenger, a service disconnect needs to be within site of the spa, and no close than 5 feet to the spa. GFI protection is required for the spa, can be at the panel, and protect the entire cable, or be the disconnect at the spa.

    While not specified by the code for spas, most inspectors will enforce the motor disconnect rule of no more than 50 feet away, even if in sight.

    GFI close to the spa is preferred for convenience.

    Plus, a standard 15 or 20 amp GFI receptacle is required no closer than 10 feet and no farther than 20 feet.

    Other devices close by, lighting, sound equipment, etc have their own rules.

    TEST EACH GFI MONTHLY!

    This rule is so ignored.
    Washington1's Avatar
    Washington1 Posts: 798, Reputation: 36
    Senior Member
     
    #8

    Oct 9, 2007, 06:24 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by tkrussell
    At a electrical supply, you can ask for knockout blanks, sometimes called "pennys". There are knockout blanks made for each trade size, 1/2", 3/4", 1", etc. The smaller ones push in and snap, larger ones, say for 2" and up maybe two pieces with a nut and bolt.
    Interesting!
    Your side of town calls them "pennys"! I like that! Never heard that terminalogy, but will start using it to see the responses!

    Thanks for the new word TK! ;)

    We call them "ko seals"!

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