I have a light in a room that has constant power to it. There is a switch, with 4 wires, black white red and ground. But the switch has been disconnected by someone else, and I cannot figure out how to run the wires to the switch. I am assuming the red wire is a traveler since on the other side of the wall there is a switch with the same colored wires to it, and the light it controls works fine. Do I need a 3 way switch for the connection?

Sounds like you need a 3 way switch. Is there another switch that controls the light.

If you need a 3 way, either the hot feed or the switch leg going to the light needs to connect to the "Common" (dark screw) on the switch, the other two wires will be the travelers.

Usually I is a black wire that is the common, but an wire may be, so need to trace out the wiring.

There is no other switch that controls the light. I bought a 3 way switch and connected as you stated, but, still the light is constant on, and will not turn off

There has to be another switch like the other guy said trace the wires or call a electrican.there would be no other reason to have that many wires unless you had a ceiling fan in there that just turned on with a pull chain!

As stated in first post, there is another switch, on the outside of the wall, it controls hall lighting, but does not control bedroom lighting. This "other" switch has the wiring of one red, and two whites, with a line coming down with the white and white pigtailed, and another set of black and white pigtailed, I do not know who wired this, and the other switch functions properly. Upon testing with a klein non-contact tester, the red and black wire to the switch in question both register "hot"

Okay,

Let's stay in the room where the failure is, please. I believe what you are stuck with is a work-around to eliminate a failure in either the switch or the wiring between the switch and the fixture. A “Hotwired Lamp” is very poor but effective solution to avoid the costs and work to correctly repair the electrical failure. I suggest you pick up a multi-meter. You will need to have an Ohm meter to verify the cables. An Ohm meter is part of a multi-meter.

I suspect that there was a switch loop in the ceiling using the red connected to the black supply. The other end of the red was connected to the bottom of the switch. Black from the switch returns the power to the ceiling fixture.

Check the switch to make sure that the wires are connected to the screws on the switch and not “Back stabbed” into slots ore holes on the back of the switch.

You have a wall mounted switch that you say was disconnected, correct? To me that suggests all of the wires were removed from the switch, is this true?

If it is, then I would start diagnosing at the other end of the circuit, the light.

First, open the circuit breaker that feeds the light. That will kill the power to the light.

Next, take the fixture down from the ceiling and let it hang on the connected wires.

If the light is wired correctly, the light's white should connect to a white from the ceiling. Do not disturb this connection.
The bare or green wire from the light will be connected to the bare copper wire in the ceiling. Do not disturb this connection either.

At the ceiling:

1) What is the black wire from the light connected to? Is it a black wire or a red wire?
2) Is the red wire connected to anything at the overhead connections?
3) Inspect all of the connections for any dark, burnt or charred conditions.

At the wall outlet:

1) Remove the face plate and take the switch out of the Jbox.
2) Does the switch handle have “On/Off” embossed on it?
3) Describe the wiring that is present.
4) Check the wiring for any signs of heat damage, burning or charred insulation.
5) If wires are still connected to the switch, describe how they are connected.

Using the Ohm meter set to 1K Ohms, place the black lead on the terminal screw on the bottom of the switch. Place the red lead on the top end of the switch.

With the switch handle in the down or “Off” position, there should be no electrical connection to the red lead. With the handle in the Up or “On” position, the meter should show a zero number of Ohms. Some meters will beep. This tells us weather the switch is working or not.

Next, back to the ceiling. At the outlet connect a wire to the Red wire. This is going to be a jumper wire. Make sure it is long enough to reach the switch.

Now with the black probe connected to the jumper, place the red probe on the red wire. Is there a zero reading on the meter or a “Beep”?

If you can attach pictures of both connection points it would be very helpful.