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igot1forya · Mar 19, 2010, 12:26 PM

I've got a 13000W work-site generator but am looking to use it as more of a stand-by generator. The generator does not seem to have any direct to hard-line terminals that I can connect my panel to. Is it possible to combine all the recepticles together to a single hard line wire and make my own?

Here are the following recepticles that are on the generator:

(1) NEMA L6-30 (3600W)
(2) NEMA L5-20 (4800W)
(4) NEMA 5-15 (7200W)
Recepticles Rated = (15600W)
Generater Rated Single Phase = (13000W)

Is there a product that does this? If so, who sells the kit and where do I get it? Finally, is this just a pipe dream with sparks and fire?

parttime · Mar 19, 2010, 12:51 PM

Hey forya, I'd love to see a picture of that Genset? Will you do that? Thanks

igot1forya · Mar 19, 2010, 01:30 PM

This is an image that is almost the same generator as mine, except the generator in the picture has the 50A receptacle and 240V portion... mine does not, strangely mine is supposedly the same model as the one shown in the image.

http://www.texasbid.com/image.php?i=...PG&w=640&h=480

KISS · Mar 19, 2010, 04:39 PM

You can post a pic using Go advanced/Manage attachments.

Can you measure the voltage between the hots of the plugs to see if you have 240 between any of them.

Possible to find a manual?

parttime · Mar 19, 2010, 04:59 PM

Everything I find on that model show 240, I'd like to see a pic of yours, maybe been modified. Hers's a manual for that model. http://www.northerntool.com/download...ls/165923.pdf?

Missouri Bound · Mar 19, 2010, 07:46 PM

Just use the 50 amp receptacle. That is 12000 watts (which I am sure that is PEAK)
No reason do do any rewiring of the generator. Have you done standby hookups before?

KISS · Mar 19, 2010, 07:57 PM

A couple of things. One see www.interlockkit.com for a way to backfeed a panel safely.

There are generator input connectors that mount on the outside of the house.

You really need to remove the neutral to ground bond on the generator when using it for emergency power.

Typically, what people do is use the 4 wire twist lock connector, which you don't have, and make a dummy plug that connects ground and neutral together. When the system is used stand-alone the twist lock is inserted. Usually you don't need 240 V for stand alone power.

You could conceiveably only run 120 V loads with a simple transfer panel.

It's very conceiveable that the generator is two phase and can run 240 volt loads.

igot1forya · Mar 19, 2010, 08:41 PM

Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid

A couple of things. One see Generator InterLock Kit for a way to backfeed a panel safely.

There are generator input connectors that mount on the outside of the house.

You really need to remove the neutral to ground bond on the generator when using it for emergency power.

Typically, what people do is use the 4 wire twist lock connector, which you don't have, and make a dummy plug that connects ground and neutral together. When the system is used stand-alone the twist lock is inserted. Usually you don't need 240 V for stand alone power.

You could conceiveably only run 120 V loads with a simple transfer panel.

It's very conceiveable that the generator is two phase and can run 240 volt loads.

I will take a closer look this weekend if I can and see if indeed the unit has the features from the manual posted in the thread... when I looked at it today thought I did not see a 50A-240V receptacle (the panel simply is missing it, almost like my model is a limited version or something). Either way, I'll check to see if there are hidden posts or maybe it has indeed been modified. It's at work in a shed, so I'll have to check it tomorrow on my day off.

Thanks for the input guys! There may be hope for me yet! :)

Missouri Bound · Mar 19, 2010, 09:06 PM

Are there circuit breakers on your generator like in the picture?

tkrussell · Mar 20, 2010, 03:31 AM

The spec you provided sates that is is a 10,500 watt unit, the 13,000 watt rating is for "Surge".

"Surge" is not a technical electrical term, but is meant to indicate inrush currents, usually of motors. DO NOT load this unit with 13,000 watts continuously.

Rewiring the generator will violate the UL listing.

igot1forya · Mar 20, 2010, 08:21 AM

Originally Posted by tkrussell

The spec you provided sates that is is a 10,500 watt unit, the 13,000 watt rating is for "Surge".

"Surge" is not a technical electrical term, but is meant to indicate inrush currents, usually of motors. DO NOT load this unit with 13,000 watts continuously.

Rewiring the generator will violate the UL listing.

Yeah, I figured it was rated like that (using the 80% rule). OK, I do not have an actual picture of my generator but I can say this... the picture in the link I provided looks almost identical with the following exceptions...

1) No 50A receptacle what-so-ever The panel just has an empty space (no hole is punched) where that part is in the picture.
2) No 120/240v circuit breaker. The top section in the picture where those breakers are located again, is just empty space with further advertising from North Star...

The (7) receptacles I've listed above are the only objects on the interface for plugging stuff in. (1) L6-30 (2) L5-20 (4) 5-15. That's it!

KISS · Mar 20, 2010, 09:32 AM

Bet you'll find a B1, B4, W2 and G1 wire and between B1 and B4 you will have 240 V. between W2 and B1 120 V and W2 and B3 120 V.

You have part numbers and therfore you could make it like the schematic in the manual shown.

The manual doesn't seem to show where W2 and G1 get connected together.

The panel isn't a schematic so it's harder to figure out. All it seems to do is protect the generator windings with the 50 A and then with a 30 A and then protect the smaller outets with thermal breakers so that each gets protection to the rated capacity of the outlet.

I wonder if it's possible to send the panel back to be reworked or even purchase a new panel already wired.

Just a thought.

The manual for your generator may list the same generator part number.