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    treborc's Avatar
    treborc Posts: 16, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Apr 9, 2006, 07:57 PM
    220 cove heater install
    I am putting in a 220 eletric cove heater in my entry. The manual says I can run standard 12 2 with ground for the wiring. I understand that I run it to a box in the wall first for the thermastat then from there I was going to run it to a box on the wall located where the end of the unit would be. This can be either end since wire is available at both ends. It hangs out from the wall about an inch and the instructions say I need to run metal conduit up to the unit where it comes in which is only an inch away from the wall. I have never used conduit before but I would have sworn that they make a piece that screws on simliar to face place cover and has flex conduit attached. Am I incorrect in thinking this. I looked at the home depot put didn't find anything and the kid there looked at me like I was insane.
    tkrussell's Avatar
    tkrussell Posts: 9,659, Reputation: 725
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    #2

    Apr 10, 2006, 12:56 PM
    Is this a piece of baseboard heat? Why is it an inch away from the wall?

    All that needed to be done is leave the feeder cable long enough to span the one inch space and enter a cable connector in the heater.

    If you already have a box that will be behind the heater, you can put a blank plate with a knockout , attach a threaded nipple, with locknuts to the plate, having wires come through the nip, then mount the heater onto the nipple,again connect with locknuts.

    DOes this help? Get back with more details and questions if needed.
    treborc's Avatar
    treborc Posts: 16, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Apr 11, 2006, 05:37 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by tkrussell
    Is this a piece of baseboard heat? Why is it an inch away from the wall?

    All that needed to be done is leave the feeder cable long enough to span the one inch space and enter a cable connector in the heater.

    If you already have a box that will be behind the heater, you can put a blank plate with a knockout , attach a threaded nipple, with locknuts to the plate, having wires come thru the nip, then mount the heater onto the nipple,again connect with locknuts.

    DOes this help? Get back with more details and questions if needed.
    Actually it mounts up by the ceiling a few inches down and is angled so it puts the heat out towards the floor. Do I need to have the box in the wall or can I just pull a piece of conduit threw the wall and into the heater? It's the face plate with the knock out that I can not seem find.
    tkrussell's Avatar
    tkrussell Posts: 9,659, Reputation: 725
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    #4

    Apr 11, 2006, 06:34 PM
    Make a knockout in a plate of your choice of material and color using a 7/8 " holesaw. What we normally do is start out with is a switch plate, and use the toggle opening as a stater hole.

    Instead of hard conduit, you can use a short pice of 3/8" flexible conduit, which is the metal sheathing of BX or MC cable.

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