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    DEB1002's Avatar
    DEB1002 Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jul 29, 2006, 06:35 AM
    Dachshund Puppy biting
    We have a new mini Dachshund Puppy. The problem we are having is she gets snippy with us. Sometimes when you pick her up she growls and bits at you. She has even bitten my daughters face. How do I stop this behavior? This is my first dog ever so I'm really in the dark about the training.
    Thanks,:)
    labman's Avatar
    labman Posts: 10,580, Reputation: 551
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    #2

    Jul 31, 2006, 01:26 PM
    Young Labs, which I know best, and other puppies tend to very bad about
    Biting. You see a litter of them, and all the ones that are awake are biting
    Another one or themselves. I am not even sure they realize that when they are
    Alone, if they quit biting, they would quit being bitten. At 3 to 4 months
    They are getting their adult teeth, and it seems they spend every waking
    Moment biting or chewing. One thing you can do at that stage is to knot and wet a piece of cloth. Then freeze it. The cooling will sooth the gums. Only let the puppy have it when you are there to watch it. I maintain a Lab's favorite chew toy is another
    Lab. Otherwise they settle for any person they can. They keep hoping to find
    One that won't yelp and jerk their hand away, or growl "Bad dog." and clamp
    Their mouth shut. Then offer a chew toy. They keep trying despite hundreds
    Of corrections. Another good technique is to quit playing and go away. Be
    Sure to praise them when they are playing nice and not biting.

    You just have to keep on correcting them, hundreds of times, not dozens.
    Provide sturdy, safe toys such as Kongs and Nylabones. Avoid things they can
    Chew pieces off and choke on them. Keep them away from electrical cords.
    Crates are essential for most young Labs and other dogs.

    What does a puppy need?

    A crate. It is only natural that a puppy resists its crate at first. What the puppy wants more than anything else is to be others, you, anyone else in the
    Household, and any other pets. In our modern society, even if we are home,
    Other things distract us from the attention an uncrated puppy must have. The
    Only real solution is to crate the dog when you aren't around. The dog may be
    Happier in its den than loose in the house. It relaxes, it feels safe in its
    Den. It rests, the body slows down reducing the need for water and relieving
    Its self. Dogs that have been crated all along do very well. Many of them
    Will rest in their crates even when the door is open. Skip the
    Bedding. At first it gets wet, and later it can be chewed into choking
    Hazards. A wire rack in the bottom will help keep the puppy up out of
    Accidents at first. They are available with the crates, but a piece of closely
    Spaced wire closet shelving from a home supply place is cheaper. I think the plastic
    Ones give the dog more of a safe, enclosed den feeling. Metal ones can be put
    In a corner or covered with something the dog can't pull in and chew. Select
    A crate just big enough for the full grown dog to stretch out in. At bed time, with a new puppy, I have found lying down in front of the crate like you were going to sleep and speaking softly to it, or singing, until it settles down and goes to sleep works very well. Follow the pattern, a period of active play, outside to eliminate, and then into the crate.

    Chew toys. The pet stores are full of toys that many dogs will quickly chew up into pieces they could choke on or cause intestinal blockages. If you are not
    There to watch, stick to sturdy stuff such as Nylabones and Kongs. Keep a
    Close eye on chew toys and quickly discard anything that is coming apart in
    Pieces. Rawhide is especially bad because it swells after being swallowed.
    These problems are the worst with, but not limited to, large, aggressive
    Chewers such as Labs.

    Food. Find out what the breeder is feeding. If it is dry chow you can buy readily, I would stick with it until the dog is 4 months old, at that time switching to a dry adult chow. If not, try to have the breeder give you a few days supply to use making a gradual change to a dry puppy chow.

    Dishes. Empty plastic food containers are good enough. If you want something nicer, buy the spill proof? Ones. See http://www.petsmart.com/global/produ...1078323611448. I have found them at Big Lots too.

    A collar and leash. You should stay with a flat fabric or leather collar until your puppy is 5 months old. Then you can go with the metal slip collar with the rings on each end. Otherwise you could damage its windpipe. Put it on like this for the usual dog on the left position. Pull the chain through the one ring forming a"P". Facing the dog, slip it over its head. The free end comes over the neck allowing the other end to release pressure when the leash is slack. A five
    Month old's head will still grow some. If you buy one that easily goes over
    The head, it still should come off leaving the ears when the dog finishes
    Growing. I start the puppy out with a metal leash and switch to a leather one after the worst of the chewing is over and I need more control.

    A name, try http://www.lowchensaustralia.com/names/petnames.htm#1 and http://www.cat-dog-names.com/

    A brush. Start the puppy with a bristle brush. They don't shed much at first, and the bristle brush will remove dirt and help control odor. When shedding becomes a problem later, switch to a slicker brush with the wire teeth.

    The number of a vet. It is very hard to evaluate them. Dogs need more medical care than in the past. Many new problems are wide spread.

    A book. Any book is better than none at all. I like the Monks of New Skete and their The Art of Raising a Puppy, ISBN 0-316-57839-8.

    Obedience training. A good obedience class or book is about you being top dog, not about rewarding standard commands with a treat. Start obedience training the day you get the dog. Build on the foundation of housebreaking. The younger the puppy, the shorter you must keep sessions, only a few repetitions at a time. A few minutes here and there, and by the time the puppy is 4 months old, people will be impressed with what a nice dog it is.

    An AMHD bookmark so you can come back for help as needed.

    I didn't forget treats, shampoo, and bedding. I seldom use them.
    Meggx7's Avatar
    Meggx7 Posts: 10, Reputation: -1
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    #3

    Nov 6, 2006, 02:26 PM
    there are many ways of teaching puppys not to do things.. BUT you have to do it when they are a puppy so when they are an adult they remember "oo yea im not suppose to do that". The best thing to do would be to read up on your puppy. When my mom got our standard poodles she had no clue at all what to do then she started buying books on them how to groom them and train them I think that would be the best way to teach yourself to handle him/her =]
    doggie_poopie's Avatar
    doggie_poopie Posts: 252, Reputation: 19
    Full Member
     
    #4

    Nov 6, 2006, 05:17 PM
    The easiest and most quick way to teach a puupy to stop biting is to yelp like a puppy when they bite. This is called 'bite inhibition' and should have learned with within the litter. Sometimes if a puppy is taken too early they do not learn this. Never hit, smack, clamp their mouth shut, or use pain to teach a dog to not bite. This can cause a dog to bite worse.
    If your little puppy is already growling when being picked up I would recommend getting him/her into a puppy socialization class ASAP!!
    You need to learn about being a pack leader. A good site that uses ONLY positive corrections is the humane society from Denver who has their own behavioral hotline. The handouts can be seen at www.ddfl.org.
    Good Luck

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