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    lionel0929's Avatar
    lionel0929 Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Jun 8, 2010, 07:45 AM
    Making a window a door - stone house
    I have a 1948 stone (granite) cape. In order to use new patio, I would like to replace dining room window with a french door. A couple of stone masons have given me very different opinions. One would cut through the stone and carpenter would frame. The other said he would rather 'remove' the stone (not cut through). All agree that a new header would be installed. None have had experience in cutting through an exterior stone wall - making me nervous! But I really want access to patio/back yard. Any advice, tips, warnings, etc. would be very much appreciated! The area outside the anticipated new door is ready for the steps that will be installed.
    Stratmando's Avatar
    Stratmando Posts: 11,188, Reputation: 508
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    #2

    Jun 8, 2010, 07:59 AM

    I would think a Target saw could cut a decent opening for Framing without dissembling stone.
    21boat's Avatar
    21boat Posts: 2,441, Reputation: 212
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    #3

    Jun 8, 2010, 04:43 PM

    Stratmando is 100% on this.

    Actually I had a job in the 70s in reverse. It was an old log cabin where the wood was petrified in the middle.

    Anyhow a concrete cutoff saw is the best start here. I doubt the saw will get in deep enough to cut all the way through. What I've done on the job site is start with the cutoff saw. Keep it Plumb, be carefully of bevel cutting.

    If need to achieve total depth I use a diamond Blade chainsaw to get it all through. No chipping grinding etc. You can rent them. Go slow with the chainsaw they can walk away from a line easily

    Don't know if this is a solid stone wall, if so look at the stone pattern from planned opening and follow those mortar joints from both sides and wind your way inward to meet in the middle of the opening. Approx 45 angle from each side. The last rock which become the "Keystone" holds the Arch effect in tact. Below that is the possible fallout stone.

    A header is required and or an angle iron for the stone itself separate of wood header but at the same plane.

    Removing the stone is a VERY BAD idea... It could turn into t nightmare.

    Its VERY very hard to match any aged mortar and it could look like a Patch job. If the stone is removed and one breaks/chips etc Big worries. I would take my time do it surgically.

    You can also use the chainsaw to score the back of the stone for a metal angle iron. Some jobs require an I beam and welded flat to bottom of I beam to cover the width of header which in stone can get wide in old buildings. .
    lionel0929's Avatar
    lionel0929 Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #4

    Jun 11, 2010, 03:24 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by Stratmando View Post
    I would think a Target saw could cut a decent opening for Framing without dissembling stone.
    Thank you... I think I'm on the search for a mason/carpenter!
    lionel0929's Avatar
    lionel0929 Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #5

    Jun 11, 2010, 03:31 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by 21boat View Post
    Stratmando is 100% on this.

    Actually I had a job in the 70s in reverse. it was an old log cabin where the wood was petrified in the middle.

    Anyhow a concrete cutoff saw is the best start here. I doubt the saw will get in deep enough to cut all the way through. What I've done on the job site is start out with the cutoff saw. Keep it Plumb, be carefully of bevel cutting.

    If need to achieve total depth I use a diamond Blade chainsaw to get it all through. No chipping grinding etc. You can rent them. Go slow with the chainsaw they can walk away from a line easily

    Don't know if this is a solid stone wall, if so look at the stone pattern from planned opening and follow those mortar joints from both sides and wind your way inward to meet in the middle of the opening. Approx 45 angle from each side. The last rock which become the "Keystone" holds the Arch effect in tact. Below that is the possible fallout stone.

    A header is required and or an angle iron for the stone itself separate of wood header but at the same plane.

    Removing the stone is a VERY BAD idea... It could turn into t nightmare.

    Its VERY very hard to match any aged mortar and it could look like a Patch job. If the stone is removed and one breaks/chips etc Big worries. I would take my time do it surgically.

    You can also use the chainsaw to score the back of the stone for a metal angle iron. Some jobs require an I beam and welded flat to bottom of I beam to cover the width of header which in stone can get wide in old buildings. .
    Thank you both so much for responding. Really glad I asked! I think finding the right folks to do the work is the hard part. Staying within a budget is the other! BTW, the stone is deep. Wish me luck!

    Thanks again!
    michaelanthony's Avatar
    michaelanthony Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Nov 6, 2010, 09:54 AM
    Hi there.my name is michael anthony and I have 30 years experience in stone masonry.I can relate to your situation,and have worked many custom stone retorations and repairs.I do not recommend cutting the stone.the objective here is to remove the original stone intact.remove enough to allow for the rough opening for your french doors.once installed reapplying the stone comes naturally to a seasoned stone mason and yes the motar most definitely can be matched.your goal here is to keep it origanal.if I can help please call me at 772-828-5258.
    lionel0929's Avatar
    lionel0929 Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #7

    Feb 18, 2011, 06:27 PM

    Michael, you're right! The job turned out beautiful. My house has 'spaghetti mortar' and the mason did an outstanding job of replacing the stone and closely matching the mortar. The contractor agreed with the mason that the stone should be removed rather than cut... glad I had faith in them. Thank you for your help!

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