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How to build a concrete block fence? For Dummies
Asked Aug 16, 2008, 01:54 AM
I want to know, from the most basic, how to build a concrete block fence? And how to use a tool, forget what it is called, it hangs on a string and is weighted at the bottom? :confused:
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Aug 16, 2008, 03:08 AM
Do you intend to make the concrete blocks also? Or will you buy these?
There are many simple instructions on building a concrete block fence.
Ask the supplier of the concrete blocks. There are many options : with or without mortar?
Thick or thin wall? High or low? It all depends on what you want, and on the local situation.
The string tool you refer to is intended as reference for the real vertical line.
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Aug 16, 2008, 04:29 AM
Originally Posted by Credendovidis
Yes, and those instructions can be happening right on this site. That is a good part of why this site exists, to help people in a "live" way as much as possible and also so that others who have similar questions can also benefit by the answers that have been given. I'm sure that there are a least a few people on this site who can provide excellent examples of how to construct one in a simple way.
The tool that is on a string with a weight attached to the end, is called a Plumb-bob. What is quoted below is from the following site. Plumb-bob - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Although, a carpenter's level could be used to accomplish the same purpose as far as making sure that a wall is straight and "plumb" in accordance to the sight, angle and gravity of the Earth, or to that which is most appealing to the eye.
or a plummet
is a weight with a pointed tip on the bottom that is suspended from a string and used as a vertical reference line.
has been used since the time of the ancient Egyptians
by bricklayers, masons
, and carpenters to ensure that their constructions are "plumb", or perfectly upright. It may also be used in surveying
to sight a point on the ground that is not readily visible. Small plumb bobs are included in the kits of various instruments such as levels and theodolites
. They are used to set the instrument exactly over a fixed datum
marker, prior to taking fresh readings.
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Aug 16, 2008, 04:59 AM
You also need something for the horizontal. There is bricklayer string and a level that hangs from the string to get the courses straight. A large level helps here too.
You have the trowel (triangular) to get the morter on the brick.
And, I think, the pointing tool, which comes in a couple of designs. One is called the "grapevine" because it's decorative and has a slot-like appearance. The other one I know is a concave shape.
Once it's all done and dries a bit (day or so), you etch with muratic acid.
Yep, did a little bricklaying. Taught by a retired bricklayer.
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Aug 18, 2008, 02:09 PM
You would build a concrete block fence like any other fence, with posts and panels. The posts need to have foundations that go below the frost line, or at least 24" to counteract overturning forces. Concrete blocks are a bit smaller than 8"x8"x16" (to allow for grout.) Each post would be made of courses of 4 blocks, giving you a 2'x2' post. 4 pieces of 1/2" rebar should stick vertically out of your foundation spaced evenly so that they come up through the holes in the concrete blocks.
The distance between the posts should be such that an even number of full blocks can be laid between the posts without cutting. Probably not more than 20'. I would go 10" or 12" You will probably have 1 panel that is an odd measurement, You can put this panel in the middle, if you are concerned with symmetry. You may be able to contrive a gate opening, if you need one, that will even out all the other distances.
If you are going uphill, you should step up in 8" increments. The posts at the steps will need to be 8" higher than the ones between level sections.
The panels can be 4" or 8" thick. They will need foundations as well. I would use a rubble-trench foundation, (a ditch which can drain filled with clean drain rock) You may need to pour concrete, depending on conditions.
Build the whole wall at once, course by course. After the third course, lay rebar on top of the blocks in the panels so that it sticks into the posts a few inches. Put wadded paper or fiberglass insulation about halfway down the holes in the third course. After laying the fourth course, fill the holes about halfway up the fourth course. When this sets, you will have a reinforced concrete "bond beam" 8" by 8" running along your panels at the 2" level. Assuming your panels are 6' high, do the same thing after the second last course, but fill the top course full of concrete and bring it a bit above the top of the last course so you can round it a bit for rain to run off.
Next fill the holes in the posts with concrete, at least the ones with rebar coming up through.
A really super looking fence would have concrete caps on the posts and panels which overhung 1-1/2 ".
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Jun 9, 2009, 11:09 PM
Thanks for your information on building fence wall,it was very informative and clear.(excellent)
Also please let me know how do we build on loose or filled up earth
With column and beam structure.
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