I have built 4 homes in my life doing everything myself except the foundation work. This will be the first pole barn I am building and have a question. I always like to be sure I am doing everything correct before starting the projects I tackle. So here is my question. The pole barn will be 30x48. When putting in the post should I back fill the holes with pea gravel instead of concrete to eliminate rotting of the treated post. Also is 36" deep enough for the post. The side walls will be 10 feet. My last question is for a pole barn this size should I use 6x6 post or will 4x4 post be sufficeint. Thank you for the help.
OOps!! One more question? Is it better to buy a kit through a company to build this or just do the calculations myself? I have found that with most project I do I save money by calculating the materials myself. I actually like drawing out my own plans and figure the materials myself. Any opinions will help thanks again

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Put quite a few up. 6x6 is what you need. I also coat the post with foundation coating before bury part. No pea gravel. You need the dirt back fill for stability. Dig hole 3' plus Some Amish builders set post mix crete and pour post in. I don't like that. Crete in bottom grain is bad. Also crete holds moisture. I pour pads. I set post on pads. There's a couple ways of doing the post. You want 10 feet. Plus three in ground so you need to buy 16' post unless you can get 13/14 feet post. I ask the customer how about a higher ceiling? So either sonic tube to grade and use 10 post or buy 16s. Set post then string line tops snap line cut saw. I usually lay out post 10 to center. Depends on roof load. That way a 10 6x6 top plate and then works for the perlins on the side. I also wrap my post with 30 lb felt 4" or 6" high if concrete is poured around them for crete moisture not to rot post there also. Check with steel manf for perlin placement on sides and roof for the gage of metal and screw pattern. Don't know how fussy you are but many times I can get " seconds" for the steel. Fabral is one manf here also we have a company here that Makes the panels. Pick good door track/rollers if a sliding door is used. I like the ball bearing type of rollers.

If you ever think of putting a ceiling in there let the truss manf know and give him the specks on metal so the bottom cord of truss is already set up for ceiling load.
I like ridge vents to the steel roofs. Here they have a roll mesh that fits the panels channels/groves that you put down before a ridge vent. I like that simply it helps keep the wasp from easy access and cools the hot peaks. To install the roof panels do yourself a favor and use 2 2x10/or 8 plank and underneath them tack a 2by scabs in a couple of places. Double thoes up so you have 3" depthon scabs. You built before so you use saftye as the thought. . Line them up so when you lay the plank down on the roof perpendicular to the peak, the scabs catch the perlins. Scabs on to for the catwalk part. Now you can easily slid the catwalk along sideways easily and adjust with ease and the perlins hold the plank in same position putting the roof on.

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Thanks for the help. I talked to a couple other tradesmen in my area and they also said to back fill with dirt not pea gravel or cement. They also suggested nailing 8" blocks around the base of the post. This keeps the post from pulling up in heavy winds. So that is what I will do. I wasn't looking forward to mixing all that concrete anyway.