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    rgb71's Avatar
    rgb71 Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jan 6, 2011, 12:16 PM
    Need assistance determining header specifications
    I'm doing some remodelling and one of the projects I have is converting the unused "pocket" spaces on both sides of a bay window area into usable space for shelving.

    The area itself is on the top floor of a three story rowhome in philadelphia that has a flat roof (so have to account for snow load). I've attached a link to a picture belolw so you can get a good idea of the space in question. Each pocket area is roughly 5ft across. The existing framing is old school 2 3/4 x 3 3/4 studs.

    My current plan for each "pocket" area, is to remove the two middle studs (after building a temporary support), use 2x6's for the king and jack studs which would butt up to the existing outer studs, and span the distance with a header made up of 2 2x12's sandwitching 1" thick plywood.

    I'm not an engineer, so I have no idea of this set up would support the load correctly or if this would be overkill so I thought I'd post here to see if someone could provide some assistance.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks!

    http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/3334/bayarea.jpg
    creahands's Avatar
    creahands Posts: 2,854, Reputation: 195
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    #2

    Jan 6, 2011, 11:41 PM

    A few questions

    Is there a bottom plate? Can not see one in picture.

    "butt up to the existing outer studs" Do u mean in front of existing studs or between with new studs going to sheathing?

    What are u using for insulation?

    Answer these and can help.

    Chuck
    rgb71's Avatar
    rgb71 Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Jan 7, 2011, 08:37 AM
    Hi Chuck,

    Thanks for taking a moment to look into my project.

    The studs are nailed into the same floor joist that the hardwood floor sits on.

    As for the king and jack stud locations, they will go on the same plane as the originals (using the existing top plate and floor joist), and will be nailed to the existing outer studs for support.

    The insulation is spray foam, which was sprayed directly onto the underside of the sheathing. However, the studs, top plate and floor joist are pretty much insulation free. It's difficult to tell from the photo, but the pocket space is triangular and about 3 feet deep at the base. Here's a text art example of a side view:

    interior |\ exterior sheathing
    studs | \
    |__\

    The sheathing is fastened to the framing with 1x6 ribs which are nailed perpendicular onto the sheathing. The 1x6 were then nailed to side of the studs at the top just under the top plate.

    My plan was to re-nail these ribs to the cripples above the header once I had it in.

    Let me know if I'm not explaining this very well :).

    Thanks

    rgb71's Avatar
    rgb71 Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
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    #4

    Jan 7, 2011, 08:58 AM

    Here's my little text art again since I can't edit my previous post to fix it

    Interior |\ exterior sheathing
    Studs | \
    |__\

    rgb71's Avatar
    rgb71 Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Jan 7, 2011, 08:58 AM
    Comment on rgb71's post
    Great
    ma0641's Avatar
    ma0641 Posts: 15,675, Reputation: 1012
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    #6

    Jan 7, 2011, 11:56 AM
    Comment on creahands's post
    Looks like it might be baloon framing.
    ma0641's Avatar
    ma0641 Posts: 15,675, Reputation: 1012
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    #7

    Jan 7, 2011, 12:06 PM
    Is the window cantelevered out? Are the walls we see next to the window the outside walls. It appears you have a balloon framed house and those are the outside walls. Yes? How deep are you planning the shelving? Wouldn't it be a lot easier to just build a couple of "bookcases" on each side or am I missing something?
    rgb71's Avatar
    rgb71 Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
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    #8

    Jan 7, 2011, 01:36 PM

    Yes, those walls are the exterior walls, and the walls and the windows jut out slightly from the rest of the house.

    The shelving would be about 3 feet deep at the base and then taper up from there.

    I'll be building a large closet on the left side of the room which will enclose the pocket area on the left which I was hoping to use for storing clothes, shoes, whatever.

    The space in front of the pocket area on the right is perfect for a bed with the headboard against the wall perpendicular to that space, so I was going to utilize it in place of an end table.
    ma0641's Avatar
    ma0641 Posts: 15,675, Reputation: 1012
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    #9

    Jan 7, 2011, 01:50 PM
    So are you planing to open the exterior wall and build out? I'm at a bit of a loss what you are trying to accomplish. If the walls are balloon framed the load goes all the way to the basement. PS I used to live in the 900 block of Irving street, just off Sansom. Sister in law in G'town and one off Cottman Ave
    creahands's Avatar
    creahands Posts: 2,854, Reputation: 195
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    #10

    Jan 7, 2011, 03:16 PM

    Tried to draw a picture of what I think u have but is to big for forum display. Will try to explain.

    The 2 studs that appear in your picture are perpendicular to floor. These are the ones u want to remove.

    The studs that have insulation blown onto are on an angle going from top to bottom out 3 feet.

    Window bottom is close to the 3 foot mark.

    Am I seeing it right?

    Chuck
    creahands's Avatar
    creahands Posts: 2,854, Reputation: 195
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    #11

    Jan 7, 2011, 03:22 PM

    I think Brian is correct in stating u have balloon framing.

    Do the floor beams cantilever out over lower wall? If so that is where support has to be.

    Get back to me . Let me know.

    Chuck

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