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    Kenneth Cox's Avatar
    Kenneth Cox Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jan 13, 2009, 11:31 AM
    1957 Silver Certificate
    What is the current market value of a 1957 Silver Certificate?
    Clough's Avatar
    Clough Posts: 26,677, Reputation: 1649
    Uber Member
     
    #2

    Jan 15, 2009, 04:14 AM

    Hi, Kenneth Cox!

    Flying Blue Eagle is an Expert on this site who has the current documentation concerning the possible monetary value of such things. As such, I'm sure that he will be along eventually to address your post.

    In the meantime, and as per Flying Blue Eagle's request, it would be helpful if you would post the following information concerning the currency that you have. I know that you have already provided some of the information that is asked for in the quote that is below.

    #1 - The denomination of the currency, such as $1.00, $2.00, $5.00, $10.00, etc.
    #2 - Series date, Example 1935, 1935A ,1935B, etc.
    #3 - Signatures - Example - Priest -Anderson
    #4 - Color of seal,- color of serial numbers, Is there a star before or after the serial numbers, what color?
    #5 - What is written above on the very top, Example - SILVER CERTIFICATE<Federal reserve notes, treasury or coin notes. Legal tender notes, etc. etc.
    Thanks!
    Clough's Avatar
    Clough Posts: 26,677, Reputation: 1649
    Uber Member
     
    #3

    Jan 15, 2009, 04:16 AM
    What the paper money is worth monetarily will also greatly depend on the graded condition of it. Do you know what the graded condition of it is?

    If you might not, then what is below should be helpful to you. Flying Blue Eagle will also need to know what the possible graded condition of it is.

    What is posted below is quoted from the following site and is for paper currency. 1.9) How do you grade the condition of paper money?

    1.9) How do you grade the condition of paper money?

    The condition of a note is critical to its value. Lowering the
    grade of a note one notch can decrease its value by 1/3 or even
    1/2. An expensive note which falls between two categories might
    be worth a thousand dollars more in the higher category than the
    lower one. Thus, it's often important to be more precise than
    using a limited number of categories.

    But here's a general guideline. Note that many dealers have
    slightly different grading systems, especially with various
    sub-grades of uncirculated. There's no official system of grading,
    unfortunately. But these are pretty much universally accepted.
    I've received a lot of input and tried to hammer out the best
    descriptions for each category.

    Crisp Uncirculated, UNC or CU: This means absolutely not the
    slightest sign of any handling or wear or folding or *anything*.
    Some people use additional grades to distinguish qualities such
    as perfect centering or other printing characteristics. Certainly
    a note which has centering problems which are visible from a
    distance of 1 meter (3 feet) should have this mentioned in the
    condition description.

    Almost Uncirculated (or About Uncirculated), AU: This means there
    is a slightly detectable imperfection such as a counting fold on one
    corner or slightest fold in the center (nothing which breaks the
    surface of the paper) or a pinhole. At first glance it looks like
    an UNC note.

    Extremely Fine, EF or XF: Generally three light folds or one strong
    fold which breaks the surface. There may be slight rounding at the
    corners.

    Very Fine, VF: May have several folds although the note is still
    crisp and has a minimum of dirt. There may be minor tears or very
    small holes but nothing which distracts from the overall appearance
    of the note. Take an uncirculated note and crumple it once in your
    hand, then flatten it out: this is a Very Fine note. Repeat the
    crumpling and it's still pretty much a VF note.

    Fine, F: A circulated note where individual folds and creases may
    no longer be visible. To distinguish this from a VF note, when
    inspecting a Fine note, it clearly does not look like a note which
    has merely been crumpled a few times: It doesn't have the crispness
    and brightness of a VF note. No tears may extend into the printing.
    This is your average in-the-wallet note.

    Very Good, VG: Tears and small holes can be present. The note is
    not crisp at all. The is your lower quality in-the-wallet note.
    Lots of people on the 'net don't realize that a note in "very good"
    condition is really pretty lousy.

    Good, G: Small pieces missing, graffiti. A worn out note.

    Fair: Major tears, etc. A badly worn out note.

    Poor: Even worse.

    To grade a note precisely, it can help to hold the note about
    20 cm (7 inches) under a strong light source (use the same source
    for comparing notes) and on top of a white piece of paper and
    use a 3x or 4x power magnifying glass. Make sure your hands are
    clean before handling a note. This method will show a lot of
    minor imperfections which are not normally visible.

    Note that note from many countries have standard features which
    exist for even Uncirculated notes. Some notes from Bangladesh,
    Bhutan, Burma/Myanmar, India, Nepal, and Pakistan are only found
    with staple holes where staples are always used to hold packs of
    notes together. Most dealers list Uncirculated notes of this type
    as having the usual staple holes (often abbreviated as uSH-UNC).

    Also, some notes printed in France (for about 15 different
    countries) have a slight crinkle effect.
    Flying Blue Eagle's Avatar
    Flying Blue Eagle Posts: 2,056, Reputation: 225
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    #4

    Jan 15, 2009, 11:06 PM

    Kenneth cox- please do as clough has posted above this post > i will need it in order to find your answers :: also read the sticky at the top of the page on collectables: thanks and waiting your reply f.b.e.

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