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    cahall587's Avatar
    cahall587 Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Feb 2, 2013, 12:45 PM
    95 civic 1.6L no spark
    New ignition coil
    Has fuel pressure
    Fuel pump primes and main relay clicks
    Did the igniter unit test and have power to blk/yel wirr.
    Also have battery voltage to wht/blu wire.
    When I check for continuity between yel/grn wire from ecu and blu wire from tach multimeter doesn't show anything.
    Possible short in both wires?

    Also performed k test on map sensor connector and got 5 volts.

    Any thing I could be missing?
    I appreciate your help.
    frankedwards's Avatar
    frankedwards Posts: 15, Reputation: 1
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    #2

    Feb 2, 2013, 01:14 PM
    If there is power on black and yellow it probably needs distributor. Its cheaper than the ignitor. Now if no power on yellow and green 6-12 volts ignitor bad but one more ck. Take cap off remove yellow green wire from blade on ignitor if voltage present with wire removed than ecm is grounding. So black yellow powersignitor 6-12 volts is a product of ignitor. And all tests with key on. But ignitors r just as pricy as distributor. That's all from memory. Im a master mechanic.
    cahall587's Avatar
    cahall587 Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #3

    Feb 2, 2013, 01:45 PM
    I have no voltage to ylw/grn wire removed from igniter
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #4

    Feb 2, 2013, 01:50 PM
    Replace the igniter. Testing them is pretty much a waste of time. If the problem persists, one or more internal sensors (CKP, TDC, or CYL) are likely bad. In this case, install your new igniter and coil in a genuine Honda distributor housing--all other aftermarket housings are unreliable. Aftermarket igniters and coils are fine; however, over 50% of new aftermarket distributor housings for Hondas have not worked at AMHD. Many of the remaining housings have been unreliable and problematic.
    frankedwards's Avatar
    frankedwards Posts: 15, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Feb 2, 2013, 01:50 PM
    The blade on ignitor has no voltage. Than it needs an ignitor. Like I said its cheaper to buy the whole distributor. I think an ignitor is around $250. So pop a whole unit in. And if it starts to ping when driving just turn distributor a little. You want it just before it pings so drive it hot. Turn a little till it pings under load then back it off till it goes away. It pretty full proof.
    frankedwards's Avatar
    frankedwards Posts: 15, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Feb 2, 2013, 01:52 PM
    And u will be fine with after market parts. Ive had some returns with the a-1 cardone but there r companies that make new ones
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #7

    Feb 2, 2013, 06:20 PM
    Apply silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the new igniter.
    cahall587's Avatar
    cahall587 Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #8

    Feb 8, 2013, 05:37 PM
    Popped the new distributor in a it started! Thanks guys for your help! I opened up my old one and the wires were pretty bad. Possible one or more sensor failures too. Its working though.

    Thanks again, Cody
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #9

    Feb 8, 2013, 05:52 PM
    Good job.

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