[MarkyMayhem]

Car: 1991 Honda Civic SI, 1.6 MPFI, 300,000 miles, newer engine

OK, I drive this car 100+ miles a day, and it's been pretty great.
Recently put in a blower, Saturday it was making noise like something fell in it from the glove box when I turned on the heat. Sunday AM drove it, fine except for noise, drove 50 miles. Sunday afternoon, got in started the car to warm it up and started unscrewing the glove box so I could look in the blower area. Noticed that the car was hunting for idle, like a vacume leak. Tried to rev it, and it died. It would start right back up, got to about 2000 RPM, then down down down to 100 and die. I could bounce on the throttle and keep it running, but it would not go over 2000RPM.
First thing I did, check the IACV. Took it off, cleaned it out etc. No change, except at on point I got it to idle with a check engine light [code 5,7, TPS unplugged, MAP vac line unhooked]. Unplugged some sensors [tps etc] plugged back in, no change. Then I got a MAP error from OBDI [3 and 5 flashes] - went to junkyard, got MAP, went to install, and I'd knocked the vac hose loose from the original. Tried the yard MAP, no change. In fiddling, at one point I got it to idle OK with a check engine light, I could rev it and even drove around the block. Turned off, and same thing - starts, but revs way down and dies.
I had put in a reman dizzy last spring, it was under warranty so I took it back. Before I took it off, the car would start RIGHT up, it just wouldn't run right. Put the new dizzy on, and it wouldn't even start. Took it back, looked through the remans got the nicest looking one, new cap & wires [rotor was good, 6 mo old] installed everything, and it still won't start.
After fiddling etc. sometimes [1 in 10 tries] it tries to start, coughs and dies.
The master relay is good, and I swapped out another one just in case.
I can smell gas at the tailpipe when I try to start it, I don't know when/if the fuel filter has been changed.
I had the dizzy off and on 8 times, I got it hooked up right, and didn't knock anything else loose.
I even redid the thermostat housing ground.
Also, I am not getting any codes from the computer currently.
Before it died totally, if I stood at the engine and blipped the throttle when it would rev [not often] I could hear a weird brappp sound out the intake, and it sounded like it was running kind of... funny
So that's where I am at, it's 20 degrees out, snowing, and my car won't even start... What next?!
Are there tests for the internal parts of the dizzy? The lady at Advance was the rudest person ever! Tried to charge me a core charge on a warranty exchange, got a huge 'tude - and sent me across town when the dizzy I got from them didn't work. I think I may have trouble getting them to exhange it out again without proof it's shot.

-m

[TxGreaseMonkey]

If the CEL comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then install a new genuine Honda distributor housing, with a new aftermarket Ignition Control Module and coil to keep the cost down. Since you drive so much, you need the reliability this offers; otherwise, you'll get yourself stranded.

[MarkyMayhem]

I have a new aftermarket coil & ICM in the reman aftermarket dizzy I just go, no?
Can I use them? Can I test them?
I'd hate like h-e-doublehockeysticks to buy an expensive honda housing and have it not be the problem, or have bad parts from the dizzy I got today. Also see the edit @ the end of the OP. Advance isn't going to gimmie another swap, I don't think.
I put the same brand reman on my 1991 RT4WD, and on this SI, and they worked first time, both times, not that that's definitive or anything
Oh, and the CEL comes on then goes off and the main relay clicks twice like it should

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Over 50% of new aftermarket distributors for Hondas don't work at AMHD. Most of the others are not reliable and only work for a little while. This is a constant source of problems for Honda owners. I would only install a genuine Honda distributor housing on my Civic.

We have not had problems with aftermarket ICMs and coils--only the housings. Remanufacturers and aftermarket manufacturers can't get the internal sensors right. Check the price at CollegeHillsHonda.com--they aren't that much more expensive than aftermarket.

[MarkyMayhem]

OK OK, but can I take the coil & ICM from the reman dizzy I just got [for the second time] and put them in a honda housing, and if so is there a test procedure for each that you can point me to? Thank for the quick responses BTW!

[TxGreaseMonkey]

There should be no problem in using their ICM and coil, like I said. There are no good tests, in my opinion, for testing ICMs and coils. I've seen too many ICMs test fine on Well's machines that were pieces of junk. They don't adequately simulate the heat build-up in real life. End of story.

[MarkyMayhem]

$323 for just the housing at CollegeHillsHonda.com.
$524 for the whole thing.
The car isn't worth it at that...

[odinn7]

Off the wall here but did you happen to make sure the timing belt didn't jump a few teeth?