[Stu27]

2003 Honda Accord - Full Drive Shaft Replacement

Any tips on how to get the inboard driveshaft set ring fully seated into the differential (currently working on the passenger side shaft). The shaft needs another 1/2 inch or so to lock into place... I can't seem to get the set ring past the initial lip.

The removal procedure stated not to pull on the driveshaft so that the CV joint wouldn't separate -- is there a chance of joint damage if force is applied axially down the driveshaft during installation?

I don't want to beat on it. Any tips on how to get that ring past that initial lip?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

First, compare your new shaft to the old one, to ensure they are identical in size. Second, coat the spline and set ring with grease with moly. I use Valvoline SynPower grease. Third, align splines and, with one hand on the inboard joint and the other on the outboard axle, seat the axle in the differential. You should feel it snap into place. There's no problem pushing inward; however, there can be a problem extending the inboard joint while pulling outward. Just use common sense. These half axles are tough.

This link may help:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post693587

[Stu27]

Thanks TXGreaseMonkey - appreciate the quick turn. I didn't think to compare old and new shafts, just assumed. Fortunately, they are a match. I saw in the shop manual the note to grease the splines, but it seemed like they were referring to the drive to intermediate shaft interface only. I did add moly lube and it didn't seem to help with the set ring. I ended up giving the outboard end of the shaft a few light taps (with a block of wood between the hammer and shaft end). The shaft slid right in. Test drive will have to wait for tomorrow (a beer was calling).

Hoping this helps with the shimmy I'm getting in the front end as there was about 1/8" of radial play in the inner joint housing on both axles. I'm not too hopeful though as the same play exists with the new axle as did with the old axle. My older accord (MT) does not have that play, which is one of the factors that lead me down the replacement drive shaft path. Looks like the play may be in the differential. If shimmy remains I'll re-post under a new thread.

[Stu27]

Oops, that reply was supposed to be a comment...

[TxGreaseMonkey]

If you describe in greater detail what you mean by shimmy, I might be able to offer some suggestions. How many miles are on the car?

[Stu27]

TxGreaseMonkey -- thanks for that offer... allow me to give some additional background:

I finished up the passenger axle install today and did the driver's axle as well. A local test drive up to 60mph had positive results. No more shimmy or vibration. This replacement of both axles seems to have solved my vibration problem.

Let me describe the "shimmy" I mentioned previously in more detail:
I would experience a vibration in the entire front of the car when under acceleration at any speed. It was not especially noticeable in the steering wheel. The vibration was more pronounced if going up hill (i.e. the motor/trans was under more load). I did not experience the vibration while coasting at any speed. I could "nurse" to car through the vibration if I stopped accelerating and gently applied gas. The vibration didn't go away, only reducing in intensity. The tires are Michelin and in good shape. Prior to replacing the drive shafts I had all four tires rotated and balanced (the only change in balance was 1/4 ounce on one tire). I asked the guys to focus on anything that would cause an out of balance condition (slipped belt on a tire, bent rim... ). They said everything looked okay. I checked all engine mounts, they appeared to be in good shape. The vacuum line from the engine mount control device was intact to the front mount (the engine mount system appears to be an active mount system... other than visual inspection, I don't know how to test such a mount system). The front suspension appeared to be in good shape, all ball joints, tie rod ends, and sway bar links were tight. The vibration was not related to turning (it did not appear in a coasting turn, it was present during accelerating turns, it did not change in intensity while turning under acceleration either direction). The front disc brakes are in good shape, plenty of pad remaining, rotors true, no shimmy while braking. There were times I thought the car might tear itself apart it was so bad, but stopping acceleration (removing foot from gas pedal) always stopped the vibration.

Interestingly, I cannot tell any difference between the old and new axles either on or off the vehicle. They both have radial movement (about 1/8" max) while trying to move the inner joint housing up/down or forward/rear while installed in the differential. The old axles look okay, there is no discernible wear in the joints. The boots are intact. The dampers are in the same place as on the new axles. I assume there was some where in the CV joints somewhere that occurred over time. The car only has 120K on it, pretty new if you ask me.

There was one odd thing (odd to me at least): the grease in the old axle joints was much less viscous that I would have thought. It was the consistency of pancake syrup. I'm not too familiar with CV joints (cleaned and repacked one on a Chrysler mini-van years ago due to a failed boot), but I would have expected the grease to be higher viscosity, like the grease used to pack wheel bearings. Perhaps this low viscosity grease is normal or perhaps it breaks down over time...

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Interesting situation. We haven't encountered your situation on this site before. It sounds like internal wear in the CV joints. Nice job of isolating and fixing the problem.

Yes, Honda's CV grease is more "soupy" than say Valvoline's SynPower grease, which can be used to repack CV joints.

What brand of axles did you install?