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    erich1's Avatar
    erich1 Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jan 17, 2007, 10:31 AM
    Honda Civic not shifting out of park & key stuck
    The problem I have is with my 90 Honda Civic EX, auto tranny.

    On cold mornings I can shift the car out of park and drive around normally, but when I stop and shift back to park it doesn't seem to go into park correctly. I can feel the tranny shifting into park and the car doesn't roll or anything, but the "P" light on the instrument cluster does not light up. Since the car doesn't realize the car is in Park then I can't get the key out and the shifter is locked in the park position. To get it out of park then I have to use a different key to press the manual shift lock release, but still can't get the key out of the ignition. When the thing works correctly I hear a clicking noise that sounds like it's coming from behind the dash, when it doesn't work right don't here the clicking. I was thinking it might be some type of relay but I don't know, and I don't know where a relay might be located. Does anyone have any ideas? Oh yea, I first thought the problem might be related to the brake switch so checked to see if the brake lights are working when the problem happens, they are so that's not the problem.

    Thanks in advance,

    Erich
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #2

    Jan 17, 2007, 11:37 AM
    Your Civic is equipped with the following devices to prevent inadvertent shifting:
    . A/T selector with shift lock.
    . Key cylinder with interlocked ignition key.

    Shift Lock System:

    The shift lock system prevents the shift lever from moving to R or D4 from the P position, unless the brake pedal is depressed and the accelerator is in its rest position.

    Note:
    . The shift lever cannot be shifted when the brake pedal and the accelerator are stepped on at the same time.
    . In case of system malfunction, the shift lever can be released by pushing a key into the release slot near the shift lever.

    Key Interlock System:

    The ignition key cannot be removed from the ignition switch unless the shift lever is in the P position. When the shift lever is in any position other the P, a solenoid is activated, making it impossible for the key to be removed, until the shift lever is moved to the P position.


    Therefore, you need to check for a faulty A/T gear position switch and possibly a faulty steering lock assembly (key interlock switch and key interlock solenoid). Take a test light or multimeter and also check all under-hood and under-dash fuses. These fuses can affect power going to the 8P connector and the interlock control unit. Check for good contact between the connector and socket terminals. If the problem remains, you may want to replace the interlock control unit. These are sophisticated, involved systems that can challenge the best technicians.
    cablemonkey's Avatar
    cablemonkey Posts: 5, Reputation: 2
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    #3

    Nov 20, 2011, 05:43 PM
    Hi,

    I know this question is old, but I found this post googling for the problem I have, and am posting my fix in case it helps others.

    I just fixed this problem on my '90 Accord. The problem was in the Shift Position Console Switch. This is the switch inside your console that measures the position of the shift lever. Mine was caked with 20 year old grease and crud that needs to be cleaned out.

    I had to remove 6 screws to get the console off, then the large white and black switch assembly was fastened to the driver's side of the shift lever assy with two 10mm nuts.

    With the switch removed from the lever assy, I could see that there's a sliding part in it that a post on the shift lever moves so the car can tell electrically where the lever is. I could see some contacts, lots of grease and some dark corrosion products fouling some of the contacts.

    Disconnecting the two wiring connectors allowed me to bring the switch assy inside to have a better look.

    I saw that it's made of three main parts; a white nylon chassis, a small sliding contact block, and a black contact insert with wires soldered to it.

    I carefully pried up one edge of the nylon and eased the black contact insert out. When I got the sliding block out, I could see that it held two small contacts. The larger contact that connects the park position terminals were totally caked with 20 yr old grease and corrosion and didn't move up and down at all.

    I carefully took the contact piece out (! Spring behind it! ), removed all the old caked on grease and corrosion, cleaned it up, cleaned the spring, and cleaned the block. I used a commercial contact cleaner spray and qtips to get into all the nooks and crannies. I wasn't sure what to re-lubricate it with and ended up going with a contact enhancer called Stabilant 22A (because that's what I had handy). When I was done, the contact assy on the sliding block was clean and copper coloured (not dark green as it was when I started) and it was suspended on the spring and moved up and down when pushed. When I started, it was gummed up so badly it was jammed in the lowest position, which would make for the worst possible contact.

    Anyway, I put it all back together, back into the car, and it works great! Just make sure that you have it adjusted so that all gear positions work. There's about 5mm of play built into the mounting holes to allow for a bit of adjustment, so play with this when you're putting it back together.

    All told, it took about 2 hours to fix. This has been bugging me for years and now with winter arriving, I'm glad I finally made the effort to take it apart and clean it up.

    Feel free to email me if you have any questions about the above: cablemonkey at shaw dot ca
    clueless1234's Avatar
    clueless1234 Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #4

    Jan 10, 2012, 08:03 AM
    Hi, I have a similar problem and was wondering if you can help.
    I have a '99 automatic Honda Accord and the tow truck guy took my shifter apart in an attempt to put my car in neutral. But ever since he took it apart, I have 2 problems:
    1) If I screw the shifter back on with the original two screws, the shifter can't move, but it works if I leave the parts loose and move around the white plastic stick inside the shifter and press down on the stick itself while the ignition is turned on and the brake is held down.

    2) Now since I leave the parts loose, I can't get the key out of the ignition even when the shifter is in Park. The last few times, I was able to shift the gear to Drive, then Park then back and forth and eventually the key can be released. But now it's stuck and I can't seem to get it out at all.

    Do you think both these problems can be solved by putting back my shifter on correctly? I'm thinking this since the problems only came about after the shifter was taken apart. If this is the case, what all needs to be aligned and whatnot to put the shifter back correctly? It looks simple enough with only 2 screws but that didn't seem to work.

    Any info would be greatly appreciated! Thank you.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #5

    Jan 10, 2012, 08:14 AM
    See if this helps:

    Key Interlock System:

    The ignition key cannot be removed from the ignition switch, unless the shift lever is in Park. When the shift lever is in any position other than Park, a solenoid is activated, making it impossible for the key to be removed, until the shift lever is moved to Park.

    Troubleshooting:

    If you are experiencing problems, check for a faulty automatic transmission gear position switch (most likely). Next, check for a possible faulty steering lock assembly (key interlock solenoid and key interlock switch).


    Automatic Transmission Gear Position Switch Replacement

    1. Remove console and disconnect 14-P connector from switch.
    2. Remove both console switch mounting nuts.
    3. Position switch slider to "Neutral."
    4. Move shift lever to "Neutral," then slip switch into position.
    5. Attach switch with both nuts.
    6. Test switch in Park and Neutral positions of shift lever. Engine should start, when shift lever is in Neutral (anywhere in the range of free play).
    7. Connect 14-P connector, clamp harness, and install console.

    Also, take a test light or multi-meter and check all under hood and under dash fuses. These fuses can affect power going to the 8-P connector and the interlock control unit. Check for good contact between the connector and socket terminals.
    clueless1234's Avatar
    clueless1234 Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Jan 10, 2012, 08:34 AM
    Sorry for the stupid questions, but the switch and the connectors behind the actual console where the steering wheel is? When I position the switch, is that independent of the shifter? Sorry tried googling for images and info to see what I should look for but am still not sure, if you have any images or a link with images on some of these steps that would be great!

    Also, do you have any suggestions for how to reinstall the shifter so it can shift correctly? Or do you think it's a matter of positioning the screws and the inside stick a certain way?

    Thanks!
    cablemonkey's Avatar
    cablemonkey Posts: 5, Reputation: 2
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    #7

    Jan 10, 2012, 07:34 PM
    Hi Clueless1234,

    The console we're talking about here is between the seats, where the shift lever and parking brake are.

    The switch looks like this: http://i.imgur.com/INHsU.jpg

    clueless1234's Avatar
    clueless1234 Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #8

    Jan 11, 2012, 08:53 AM
    Thank you CableMonkey! I'll try it out this weekend.
    kristen clause's Avatar
    kristen clause Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    Apr 5, 2012, 02:51 PM
    I can't get the key out sometimes when it's in park without disconnect the battery on my 1998 honda crv. Can you help other than that if I disconnect the battery it easily comes out. Thank you for your time, Kristen Clause

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