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    jeyjhour's Avatar
    jeyjhour Posts: 22, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jun 2, 2012, 05:32 PM
    Cranks, but won't start
    I have a 94 honda accord dx, the car cranks but won't start I just put in new fuel pump and main relay, when I put my key into the on position I hear no sound from the fuel pump when I turn on the a.c I can hear the fuel pump power up for 3 seconds crank it still no start.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #2

    Jun 2, 2012, 06:07 PM
    Does the Check Engine Light stay on, when you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II)?
    jeyjhour's Avatar
    jeyjhour Posts: 22, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Jun 3, 2012, 11:21 AM
    Sometimes it shows the check engine light and sometimes it don't but when when I crank it does the same, OK it happens when I drove it on a hot day the car was so engine was so hot when I touch the dashboard I nearly burn my hands, do you think I need a new distributor and spark plugs, my distributor is very old the wires is very hard when I bend it a little it breaks, I connect back the wires and tape it, my oil is very black now too and whenever my spark plug gets burnt I scrap the burnt part.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #4

    Jun 3, 2012, 01:14 PM
    If the CEL comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then focus on the distributor. Usually, replacing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil solves the problem. Be sure to apply silicone heat transfer grease to the back of the new ICM. Based on your description, you should also replace the rotor, distributor cap, wires, and spark plugs (NGK only).
    jeyjhour's Avatar
    jeyjhour Posts: 22, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Jun 3, 2012, 01:27 PM
    Im just going to get a new distributor because this one is very defective all the wires are hard and brittle I put new wires and just tape them, my fuel pump doesn't prime when I put the key to the on position but when I turn on the a.c it primes why it is that? I just put in a new fuel pump 4 days ago, and my gas is low do I need to put more gas?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #6

    Jun 3, 2012, 01:39 PM
    You definitely want to have more than a token amount of gas in the tank. Also, be sure to only buy a genuine Honda distributor--others have proven to be junk. Mark the distributor and distributor mount, prior to removal, so the timing won't be off when you install the new distributor.
    jeyjhour's Avatar
    jeyjhour Posts: 22, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Jun 3, 2012, 01:49 PM
    A new distributor or remanufacture one?
    Stratmando's Avatar
    Stratmando Posts: 11,188, Reputation: 508
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    #8

    Jun 3, 2012, 02:03 PM
    I would also check The Ignition Switch, removing some plastic will allow a couple of quick test, the contacts are on the opposite side of the steering column of the Key switch.
    Or, you could test the large Plugs, that plug in Above Fuse Panel whichever is easier to get to, follow down from steering column to find.
    White is Constant Hot, Black/Yellow is Ignition, a test light will help.
    Stratmando's Avatar
    Stratmando Posts: 11,188, Reputation: 508
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    #9

    Jun 3, 2012, 02:08 PM
    In addition, Ig could also be a White with black, and NOT to be confused with Black/White, which is starter, Accessory would be Yellow
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #10

    Jun 3, 2012, 02:14 PM
    Only go with a new distributor, manufactured by Honda.
    jeyjhour's Avatar
    jeyjhour Posts: 22, Reputation: 1
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    #11

    Jun 3, 2012, 02:19 PM
    How does the ignition switch module look like can you provide picture please, its located under and connected to the steering column right?
    jeyjhour's Avatar
    jeyjhour Posts: 22, Reputation: 1
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    #12

    Jun 4, 2012, 10:49 AM
    I just install new distributor and spark plug and it still won't start, now do you think it's the ignition switch module?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #13

    Jun 4, 2012, 11:01 AM
    Did you mark the distributor, so the timing would be close to what it was before? If not, loosen the three distributor mounting bolts and rotate the distributor slightly counter-clockwise to advance the timing.

    You never said whether the CEL comes on and goes off normally, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II). You also never said that you can hear the fuel pump run during that interval.

    Be sure to test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter. If the CEL stays on, check for codes.
    Stratmando's Avatar
    Stratmando Posts: 11,188, Reputation: 508
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    #14

    Jun 4, 2012, 12:28 PM
    You mention it "primes" in ACC, Not IG, That makes me think you aren't getting power from Ignition switch,
    White B+
    Yellow ACC
    Black/Yellow IG
    White/Black IG
    Yellow ACC
    Black/White Start
    Have you tested the Ignition switch at all?
    jeyjhour's Avatar
    jeyjhour Posts: 22, Reputation: 1
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    #15

    Jun 4, 2012, 01:31 PM
    Can I test the igniyion switch with a test light and what color of wires do I put it at on the ignition switch?
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    jeyjhour Posts: 22, Reputation: 1
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    #16

    Jun 4, 2012, 01:35 PM
    I put my key to the on position ll and the fuel pump doesn't prime but when I turn on the heater/ac it primes.
    jeyjhour's Avatar
    jeyjhour Posts: 22, Reputation: 1
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    #17

    Jun 4, 2012, 01:38 PM
    The cel comes on for 3 seconds then goes away.
    Stratmando's Avatar
    Stratmando Posts: 11,188, Reputation: 508
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    #18

    Jun 4, 2012, 01:41 PM
    A test light is perfect, as is a meter.
    Connect the ground of the test lead to a good ground.
    Try a couple of fuses to verify the tester is working(lights up).
    Refer to 2:28 PM Post above and the light should work in each of the conditions yellow will light tester when in Accessory Position and so on.
    I have seen it enough on those years of Hondas to suspect it, and your symptoms seem to match.
    Good Luck.
    jeyjhour's Avatar
    jeyjhour Posts: 22, Reputation: 1
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    #19

    Jun 4, 2012, 01:53 PM
    Thanks, do I need to put my key in and leave it to the on position while testing it?
    Stratmando's Avatar
    Stratmando Posts: 11,188, Reputation: 508
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    #20

    Jun 4, 2012, 02:07 PM
    Yes,
    To test acc, turn key one click, you should have voltage on the wire,
    Turn key to Ignition(2 clicks), you should have voltage on the Black/yellow, and/or Black/White.
    When you turn Key to Start, you should have volyage on the Black/white wire.
    Don't get the Black/white and the White/black confused.

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