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    tyleriffic's Avatar
    tyleriffic Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Nov 21, 2006, 05:23 PM
    90 Honda CRX DX, Runs Poorly, Stalls Eventually
    After sitting for roughly a month I was driving my CRX and it started to stutter badly and eventually stalled. Once it stalled I couldn't start it again for a while, but after it sat for a couple hours it started again. Once it is driven again it will start to stutter and die, but I can always start it again eventually. It really stutters when I give it a lot of gas. If I just ease into the throttle it will rev up and run fine. It also only really stutters at low revs.

    I put in a brand new tank of premium gas to see if it was a problem with stale gas. Still runs badly. I replaced the cap and rotor thinking it may be electrical, and because the rotor failed before, but it still runs badly. I replaced the fuel filter about 6 months ago so it shouldn't be clogged. I checked for any ecu error codes and the CEL wouldn't flash at all so it doesn't seem to be a problem the computer knows about. I also replaced the main relay about 6 months ago as well as put in a brand new blaster external coil.

    I have a suspicion that it could be the fuel pump not giving much pressure, but I am not sure how to test for that really. If anyone can give any clues to what it could be, or how to better diagnose this problem before giving in and taking it to a mechanic I would be really thankful.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #2

    Nov 21, 2006, 06:34 PM
    I believe your igniter is breaking down, when it gets hot. Autozone and O'Reilly Auto Parts will test igniters for free. Remember to coat the back of the new igniter and its 4 connectors with silicone grease, which is normally included with the new igniter, before mounting it to the heat sink and reinstalling. Should be a very easy job for you, since you removed the original internal coil. Keep me posted.
    tyleriffic's Avatar
    tyleriffic Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Nov 22, 2006, 12:36 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey
    I believe your igniter is breaking down, when it gets hot.
    I checked into getting the ignitor tested and had a couple of auto electric mechanics tell me that the ignitor shouldn't cause the car to run poorly, but instead cause the car to not start if the ignitor is warm. Also I am in Canada, and I can't find a parts store that will test the ignitor. Even the auto electric guys weren't too sure how to test it. Its very expensive for a new ignitor, and its probably better to buy a new distributor ($25 bucks extra). What do you suggest? What does the ignitor do? What causes it to fail? Thanks
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #4

    Nov 22, 2006, 06:00 PM
    Here's what igniters cost:
    http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...EPIsubcategory[938],Module%2B%252F%2BIgniter,partGroup,25

    The analog of an igniter are distributor points in old ignition systems. In other words, igniters are "electronic points," which affect the buildup and collapse of the magnetic field in the coil. Igniters usually fail due to heat. Inside is a sophisticated microchip (switch), which eventually gets gets toasted (some literally melt). Personally, I question the knowledge and experience of the mechanics you talked to. Their answer couldn't be further from the truth. Many Honda dealers replace igniters and coils in Civics and Accords several times a day. It's a bread-and-butter repair item. New Honda distributor housings go for around $125, but you need to add your own igniter, coil, rotor, and distributor cap. It's hard for me to believe you can get a new distributor for only $25 more than the cost of an igniter. I would suggest you do a search on AskMeHelpDesk.com for igniters (ICMs) and read the symptoms described and the results of replacing igniters.
    tyleriffic's Avatar
    tyleriffic Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Nov 22, 2006, 10:59 PM
    I ended up taking the car to a shop today. I am far away from my tools, and I need my car fixed. Thanks for the advice though. I am still going to look into information about ignitors. It was an auto parts store that quoted me around $200 for an ignitor. It's a reputable chain store that always has good prices too so I know they weren't just trying to screw me over. I'm amazed at the difference in price from the website you sent. The price for a whole new distributor was $225 on special.

    Anyway I'll let the shop take care of this one. When I find out what the problem was I'll post it here so it may be helpful to anyone. Thanks for the help, and for searching out information for me.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #6

    Nov 23, 2006, 08:30 AM
    Autozone uses a "Wells machine" for checking igniters and coils (Wells Corp. manufactures ignition components). Specific tests are run on each igniter. It takes several minutes, because the igniter has to get hot for the advanced tests. The same piece of equipment is used to test coils. Ask about this service, because not everyone is aware that it's available. Remember to reapply silicone grease, before installing a tested igniter, or it will soon fail.
    tyleriffic's Avatar
    tyleriffic Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Nov 24, 2006, 07:08 PM
    Hey TXGreaseMonkey, you were right about the ignitor. The shop ended up changing the ignitor. Good call on that one. The car was still being problematic after changing the ignitor though, and they found that there was a problem with the plug wires too. After changing the plug wires the problem is gone. Thanks for the help with that problem I appreciate it.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #8

    Nov 24, 2006, 07:26 PM
    Not a difficult diagnosis, really. If I may ask, how much did they end up charging you for the igniter? Your electrical system should be in great shape now. It's good to keep another Civic on the road--power to the little cars.
    tyleriffic's Avatar
    tyleriffic Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    Nov 24, 2006, 08:53 PM
    It was $120 CAD for a honda ignitor. I believe in using dealer parts for stuff like that because they usually seem to last longer from my experience. I'm happy the car is fixed. There shouldn't be much to go wrong with it now. I replaced the head gasket and did the water pump, timing belt, tensioner, etc... everything that could be replaced while I was in there. Almost all of the electrical system is new, new exhaust, brakes, coil over suspension. Plus other stuff that I can't even think of now. It's a little rice rocket honda. Up till this time I have done everything else on my own. I finally took the thing to a mechanic for the first time. I miss having my tools and my shop. Oh well. This honda should be ready to roll now for a while. Next potential problem is either clutch or fuel pump, or the odd minor annoyance. Shouldn't cause me problems now. Thanks txgreasemonkey for the diagnosis. If I have more probs I'll be sure to post them here.
    TheKryptonian's Avatar
    TheKryptonian Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #10

    Jun 12, 2008, 02:07 PM
    Removed and posted as new thread.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #11

    Jun 12, 2008, 02:46 PM
    TheKryptonian, test/replace the ignitor and coil. Many auto parts stores can do this for free. Because of the age of your Civic, however, I would replace the ignitor, coil, and main relay. Bench testing these items is not always definitive. These are the most problematic components on this generation of Hondas.

    This link should help:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896
    TheKryptonian's Avatar
    TheKryptonian Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #12

    Jun 12, 2008, 02:47 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey
    TheKryptonian, test/replace the ignitor and coil. Many auto parts stores can do this for free. Because of the age of your Civic, however, I would replace the ignitor, coil, and main relay. Bench testing these items is not always definitive. These are the most problematic components on this generatior of Hondas.

    This link should help:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

    Thank you!

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