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    ITstudent2006's Avatar
    ITstudent2006 Posts: 2,243, Reputation: 329
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    #1

    May 29, 2011, 07:26 PM
    2004 Pontiac Sunfire. Broken CV Joint project.
    As stated in the title, my velocity joint broke on the front left half shaft, inner joint. Now, this is usually a 15 minute swap and it doesn't take much to pull the old half shaft out and put the new one in. What is puzzling me is the shaft seal that goes into the trans-axle. I am unsure if it is ripped or not. It's a six dollar fix but I would like to be certain before I pull the old seal out and put the new seal in.

    I am sure it is ripped because I am leaking tranny fluid which is usually indicative of a ripped seal. However, I could be leaking because the half-shaft (spleened end) came out of the tranzaxle which could also cause fluid to come out...

    Again, this is a cheap fix but would like to gain the knowledge why I have it in the air and torn apart.

    If needed, I can supply a picture of the seal.

    Thanks in advance

    Rick
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,755, Reputation: 5596
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    #2

    May 29, 2011, 07:35 PM

    Unless you did something unusual, those seals are pretty tough. My bet is it's leaking just because the axle is removed. An inspection, with a powerful LED flashlight, should be productive. Coat the splines and circlip with grease with moly; e.g. Valvoline SynPower Grease.
    ITstudent2006's Avatar
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    #3

    May 29, 2011, 07:47 PM

    It's not leaking because I removed the axle. (theres no fluid left to leak) It leaked when it broke on the highway. Pulled the car over and there was a puddle of tranny fluid on the ground. Had my wife start the car while I was under it inspecting and the velocity joint started spinning and throwing fluid out of the tranny. I am just unsure if this is due to a broken seal or because the axle had already came halfway out of the transaxle...

    I checked with a high-powered LED (military grade ;)) and I can see it fine but I am just unsure of what these seals are suppose to look like compared to what mine does look like. Give me a minute and I will upload a picture of the seal.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
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    #4

    May 29, 2011, 07:54 PM

    It's was likely leaking because the axle was no longer seated in the transaxle.
    ITstudent2006's Avatar
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    #5

    May 29, 2011, 07:56 PM
    Here is the seal...
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    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,755, Reputation: 5596
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    #6

    May 29, 2011, 07:57 PM

    Damaged seal--you were right!
    ITstudent2006's Avatar
    ITstudent2006 Posts: 2,243, Reputation: 329
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    #7

    May 29, 2011, 08:06 PM

    That's what I thought. Figured I'd ask though.

    Got another question about brakes on a Blazer. I will start a new thread.

    Thanks TGM
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    #8

    May 30, 2011, 09:37 AM

    Ok. No one has this damn seal. But it makes me wonder, does my 4t40E trans require a new seal sleeve when the seal is damaged?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
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    #9

    May 30, 2011, 10:34 AM

    The seal comprises nitrile rubber, mounted in a steel sleeve. Use a seal remover (or large screwdriver) to hook and pry out the old seal. Lightly coat the new seal with grease and use a ball pein hammer and socket to install the new seal. A Google search of Timken Part No. TMSL260001 reveals plenty of product online.
    ITstudent2006's Avatar
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    #10

    May 30, 2011, 10:48 AM

    That seal is not the same...
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
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    #11

    May 30, 2011, 10:49 AM

    Which one is the right one?
    ITstudent2006's Avatar
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    #12

    May 30, 2011, 10:55 AM

    The one in the picture... it just looked different and for $24, no thanks. I found some for $7-10 but I have to order it... I want it TODAY!
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    #13

    May 30, 2011, 11:01 AM

    Did you try Advance Auto Parts? They have a National Part No. 3543.
    ITstudent2006's Avatar
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    #14

    May 31, 2011, 07:17 PM

    I need your help ASAP... I got the seal, replaces the seal, put in the new half shaft, put the car back together... and it still does the same thing it did before.

    I start the car, it runs rough (prolly due to lack of tranny fluid) and the boot that slides into the transaxle spins (while in park, which is not right) and tranny fluid gushes out of that insert on the trans. When I put that new half shaft in, I slid it in until the c-ring clicked and I wasn't able to physcially pull it out... so I am not sure what the heck is going on...

    Any help would be great. It's a 4T40 Sealed transmission if that helps at all...
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
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    #15

    May 31, 2011, 07:57 PM

    Did you properly seat the seal? Did you install the correct seal? Check it out in all specifics. Is the new axle OEM? Some Chinese import axle splines are not machined to OEM specs--they tend to be a sloppier fit. It's best to lay the old and new axles side-by-side and compare them--check the length of the inside splined shaft and the diamether of the inside joint, especially where it makes contact with the seal. My gut is the new axle is not an exact fit. When the new axle is installed, there should be no space between the inner joint and the transaxle housing. Other than that, I'm not sure what's going on.

    It should require a small pry bar or large screwdriver to remove the half axle--it shouldn't pull out by hand.
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    #16

    May 31, 2011, 09:01 PM

    I might be an idiot... thinking back through the entire process I realized I did not put that C-ring on the new half-shaft. Could this be what's causing it? Causing the half-shaft to come out of the trans-axle just enough for fluid to leak?

    I thought even with the axle out the seal kept all of the fluid in? Yes, it was the right seal. It was a remanufactured axle with an extra gear on the outer side of the outer CV but I was told (by Autozone) that since it is a reman, it is meant for a variety of cars and the gear are for cars with no ABS..?

    As of right now, I can grab the inner cv joint and pull and the axle comes out about 1/4"-1/2" but no farther... is that a big enough gap for fluid to leak through? Again, I thought you could pull the axle out and fluid wouldn't come out because of the seal?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
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    #17

    May 31, 2011, 09:12 PM

    Yes, that could be your whole problem. The "C-ring" is actually called a circlip. It's imperative that it be installed on the new axle. There should be zero clearance between the end of the inside joint housing and the transaxle housing. The outside ABS tone ring is optional, as the sales clerk at AutoZone said, if you don't have ABS.

    Most replacement half-axles come, however, with a new circlip installed on them. It's weird your's didn't. This should be a 10 minute procedure--bingo, bongo, bango.
    ITstudent2006's Avatar
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    #18

    May 31, 2011, 09:17 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    My gut is the new axle is not an exact fit.
    That was my first thought. That the inner joint was just smaller than the rubber cup inside the trans housing. Causing it to A) Move as much as it does B) leak fluid...

    Also, when I start the car (in park) the part next to the part circled (just to the left of it) spins... is this normal? What is indicative of this?
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    #19

    May 31, 2011, 09:25 PM

    Take a Vernier caliper and measure the diameter of the circled 4 area in your picture. It needs to be the same diameter as the original. The male splined shaft also needs to be the same length as the original.

    Basically, I would remove the half-axle and start over, being certain to compare both axles in all specifics. I don't know why the shaft is spinning in Park. Do everything right and see if the problem goes away.
    ITstudent2006's Avatar
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    #20

    May 31, 2011, 09:36 PM

    I returned the original to Autozone because I had a core charge on the reman... would they be willing to give it back to me long enough to measure without returning the core charge?

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