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1993 honda accord 10th anniversary edition -problem with emc and or fuel problem
Asked Feb 4, 2012, 06:52 PM
Thank you for your quick response and research in helping me with my problem that I posted yesterday.I am having a hard time trying to understand what is going on with my car. History of the car: purchased in 1996 with 59,372 miles, now have 132,000 miles and it has all original factory parts except AC and Alternator and battery.It's given me good service until now,it has left me stranded twice in two months.I am the only driver so I notice everything about the car.I changed the Alternator on 3-29-10 and battery on 2-14time was aprox -11(was having start up problems) and after changing them out, no more start up trouble.On 6-10-10 my key would not turn on the ignition,so I used the spare key and it worked,(I was told that the other key was worn)so I started leaving the spare key in the ignition at all times,and it always work.Recently I've had a problem with the car stopping on me while driving on two occasions leaving me stranded. The first time was two months ago,after driving 18 miles and upon braking it died out.Tried restarting it a few times but it would not turn over,I think I flooded it,after that I couldn't get it to make a sound. I got the battery jumped,then let it run for aprox.15 minutes,drove 18 miles back home with no problems.Drove the car a day or so later and noticed that after stopping at lights and then accelerating the car acted like it wanted to stop(like it was dying out)but it didn't.On 1-21-12 I drove the car to the store(2 miles),turned off the car for 2 minutes,restarted the car and drove a few feet to a light,then accelerated, and a few feet later the car died as I approached a busy overpass.I tried restarting it over and over but it would not turn over(kept dying out).Aprox. 8 minutes later it started up, I drove it home with problems.I got on the internet and stumbled across your site and found that a lot of people have had this problem.Purchased a main fuel pump relay and fuel filter, brought it to a mechanic for installation. He said that he didn't know if that was the problem because my (ECM) engine computer was not giving him any codes, so he could not tell what was wrong with the car, the code was zero,which indicated that the (ECM) was bad or the memory was out or bad.He only changed the fuel filter that I brought him and charged me $103.00 for that and diagnosis,he suggested that I bring it somewheres else for another (ECM) second opinion.The engine light(CEL) came on 1.7 miles after leaving his shop when I stopped at ared Light. I went back to his shop and asked him to test the computer now , he said that the light came on with him while the car was at his shop during his testing and he couldn't get it to code. The engine light had never come on in the car before that day.On the ride home( 4) miles the car felt like it wanted to stop.The next day I had another mechanic put on the relay since I thought that was my problem but the problem remains.After installing new relay the car started up good and maintained pressure and good idle and after a few more tries it would start to idle lower and lower and started to vibrate and kill.Also when he took the key out of the ignition and had the car door open, the interior ceiling light stayed on and that chiming sound(like when you have the key in the ignition) stayed on. HE said that possibly the ignition switch is going out. Please help, that's the only car that I have.
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Feb 4, 2012, 07:06 PM
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), does the Check Engine Light come on for 2 seconds and then go out? If it does, then your problem is likely distributor related. Usually, replacing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil inside the distributor solves the problem. Be sure to apply silicone heat transfer grease to the back of the new ICM. If the problem persists, install the new ICM and coil in a genuine Honda distributor housing, to keep the cost down.
Over 50% of new aftermarket distributors for Hondas don't work at AMHD. It would not surprise me if your current distributor is an aftermarket item. If you can afford it, installing a complete genuine Honda distributor should solve your problem. Just make sure the CEL comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II)--this means your ECM (computer) is likely fine. If the CEL stays on, the ECM is likely bad, especially if you have cleaned the main ECM ground like I suggested yesterday.
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Feb 4, 2012, 07:41 PM
Yes when I turn the ignition switch to on position (position 11) the check engine light come on for 2 seconds and the goe out. Also this is the original distributor that came with the car 18 years ago. Keep it and just change ou ICM ?
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Feb 5, 2012, 04:33 AM
Since it's the original distributor with 132,000 miles on it, I would install a new genuine Honda distributor, complete with ICM, coil, rotor, and distributor cap. If you do this, it should be an easy job for you to install it, save a bundle on labor, and have it running in no time. Follow the asterisked steps below, if you install a new complete distributor assembly. When you install the old spark plug wires in the new distributor cap, remove and install one wire at a time. Be sure to install them in the corresponding hole.
At AskMeHelpDesk.com, over 50% of new aftermarket distributors for Hondas have not worked out of the box. Many of those that initially worked didn't last very long. Therefore, I only recommend genuine Honda distributor housings. It's fine to buy a Honda housing and install an aftermarket Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil, to keep the cost down. Three reasons account for the majority of Honda distributors needing replacement: orange dust, oil inside, or failed sensors.
*1. Disconnect negative battery cable, after recording radio code.
*2. Remove #2 Phillips head screw, securing 2-P and 8-P connector mount to the side of the distributor, using a precision screwdriver. Access is often improved if the air filter cover is removed first, using an 8mm nut driver. Separate 2-P and 8-P electrical connectors. The trick to separating these connectors is to squeeze the connector's mounting release first and remove from mount. Then, the connector will separate--do not force.
*3. Mark distributor housing and bracket, for timing to be close later, using a scribe (or awl) and straight-edge.
*4. Remove three hex-head machine screws, securing distributor cap to housing, using an 8mm nut driver.
*5. Move distributor cap and wires off to the side.
6. Remove machine screw securing rotor to shaft, using #2 Phillips head screwdriver, and leak cover. It may be necessary to "hit" the starter once or twice, in order to rotate rotor for access to mounting screw.
*7. Remove three 12mm bolts securing distributor housing to engine. Remove old distributor.
8. Remove old distributor, place on table, and remove coil, igniter, and cap seal.
9. Install old igniter, coil, leak cover, cap seal, and rotor in new distributor. Ensure female igniter terminals fit snugly--crimp with pliers, if necessary.
*10. Coat O-ring with engine oil.
*11. Install distributor, align timing marks on housing and bracket, and button things up.
*12. Set idle speed and ignition timing with a timing light.
Note: Due to the ingenious offset shaft, there's no way you can install the distributor incorrectly. Just make sure the offset shaft fits properly into the camshaft.
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