Ask Experts Questions for FREE Help !
Ask
    veronica66's Avatar
    veronica66 Posts: 25, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Aug 16, 2012, 03:57 PM
    1992 honda accord ex fuel pump & relay
    Where is the fuel pump and relay for a 1992 honda accord ex?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
    Uber Member
     
    #2

    Aug 16, 2012, 04:22 PM
    . Fuel pump is in the gas tank.

    . Main relay is located under the dash, left of the steering column (hidden by silver cruise control box, which needs to be removed).
    veronica66's Avatar
    veronica66 Posts: 25, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #3

    Aug 16, 2012, 04:37 PM
    A mechanic said that the fuel pump was under the back seat (and he actually commented that it was great because it was easier because the fuel tank doesn't have to be taken off)... but I needed to know where at under the back seat...

    Thanks!
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
    Uber Member
     
    #4

    Aug 16, 2012, 05:13 PM
    It's located in the gas tank, but access is gained by removing the rear seat and a cover plate on the gas tank.

    What's not great is that the fuel pump is likely fine and he'll likely be wasting your money. I have never seen a Honda fuel pump go bad. Mechanics replace them, when they really don't understand how the Honda fuel system operates--it's big money. Go slow!
    veronica66's Avatar
    veronica66 Posts: 25, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #5

    Aug 16, 2012, 05:28 PM
    So do you think the problem may just be the fuel relay? If it is that would be great!
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
    Uber Member
     
    #6

    Aug 16, 2012, 05:36 PM
    That's possible, but the problem may be much simpler.

    . Check all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter. Particularly test the ACG(ALT)(S) fuse, located in the under dash fuse box.

    . Clean the main ECM ground, located on the thermostat housing. Look for a 3-wire brass connector.

    . Test the ECM (computer). Does the Check Engine Light come on for 2 seconds and then go out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)?
    veronica66's Avatar
    veronica66 Posts: 25, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #7

    Aug 16, 2012, 06:21 PM
    The check engine light has been on since I bought the car 8 months ago.
    Could you please give me suggestions as to what I should get at the auto store? I have to use a bus to get to the auto parts store and I really need to get this car moving because my friend to the doctors on Monday. Thank you for helping me, I really appreciate your help!
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
    Uber Member
     
    #8

    Aug 16, 2012, 06:38 PM
    Mechanics love to sell people on the idea that the fuel pump or main relay is bad, without first diagnosing why the Check Engine Light (CEL) stays on. Usually, it's a waste of money.

    If the CEL does not go out (i.e. stays on), most Hondas of this generation will not spark and the fuel pump will not run. Therefore, all efforts should first be directed to correcting that problem.

    If the CEL does not come on for 2 seconds and then go out, when the ignition switch is turned to Position II, the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) 15 amp fuse, in the under dash fuse/relay box; ECM (perform the K-Test, below); main relay; or the ignition switch. Perform tests in that order.

    The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.
    veronica66's Avatar
    veronica66 Posts: 25, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #9

    Aug 16, 2012, 06:57 PM
    Ok what I need is the car to run because I need it... so I don't understand if you are saying that I need to go through the steps you just said to get the cel to go off or get the car running or both?
    Sorry to be confusing but I am new at this.

    Thanks for being patient with me
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
    Uber Member
     
    #10

    Aug 16, 2012, 06:59 PM
    Yes, you need to go through the steps I outlined. They really are not too difficult.

    How long has it been since the car started and ran normally?
    veronica66's Avatar
    veronica66 Posts: 25, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #11

    Aug 16, 2012, 07:08 PM
    The car was running fine the other day when I drove it, then we had a really bad storm and it hasn't been driven in about 2 days. And this morning it sputtered and conies out about 3 times before it completely died. It tries to turn over but doesn't.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
    Uber Member
     
    #12

    Aug 16, 2012, 07:12 PM
    1. Are you saying the starter motor cranks the engine but it won't start?
    2. Do you suspect the battery is drained?
    3. When you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), can you hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
    Uber Member
     
    #13

    Aug 16, 2012, 07:23 PM
    It sounds like your CEL has been on for 8 months, because it has thrown one or more codes. It would be good to have someone read those codes for you. The CEL staying on, from previously thrown codes, may be interfering with you using the CEL to diagnose the problem at hand.
    veronica66's Avatar
    veronica66 Posts: 25, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #14

    Aug 16, 2012, 07:24 PM
    1. Yes
    2. No the mechanic put the charger on it
    3. I don't know, what is it supposed to sound like?

    Thanks
    veronica66's Avatar
    veronica66 Posts: 25, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #15

    Aug 16, 2012, 07:27 PM
    I don't know how to get someone to read why my CEL is on because I can't move the car.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
    Uber Member
     
    #16

    Aug 16, 2012, 07:29 PM
    Go out and turn the ignition switch to ON. Open the lid to the gas tank and tell me if you can hear the fuel pump motor run for 2 seconds. Have someone else listen, if necessary. Can you do that?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
    Uber Member
     
    #17

    Aug 16, 2012, 07:42 PM
    Here's how to check for codes yourself:

    Service Check Connector (SCC): Reading OBD-I Codes

    When the Check Engine Light (CEL) is on, it will be necessary to locate the 2-pin Service Check Connector (SCC) on OBD-I (pre-1996) Hondas. It is normally located under the dash, approximately 1 inch (2.5cm) from the right kick panel. Take a small screwdriver and carefully pry it from the rubber mount. The other 3-pin connector in the rubber mount is the Data Link Connector (DLC), which should be left alone. Jump the SCC with a paper clip, turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), and count the number of times, if any, the CEL flashes. Reference a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) chart to identify the code being displayed.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
    Uber Member
     
    #18

    Aug 16, 2012, 07:48 PM
    You have an old code(s) that have caused the CEL to stay on. Clear the old codes by disconnecting the negative battery cable for 10 seconds and then reconnect it. Then, turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II) and tell me if the CEL comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out. If you can also hear the fuel pump run, during this 2 second interval, then is suspect you have a problem where the Ignition Control Module (ICM) inside the distributor may have failed. It could also be moisture inside the distributor cap, since you mentioned rain. I'm very skeptical the fuel pump has anything to do with your problem.
    veronica66's Avatar
    veronica66 Posts: 25, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #19

    Aug 16, 2012, 07:49 PM
    Don't have someone else to listen and I tried to hear it myself but I didn't hear anything. What does it sound like?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
    Uber Member
     
    #20

    Aug 16, 2012, 07:54 PM
    Humm. Crank driver's window down, while you listen.

Not your question? Ask your question View similar questions

 

Question Tools Search this Question
Search this Question:

Advanced Search


Check out some similar questions!

1992 honda civic fuel pump relay location [ 3 Answers ]

Hi I am trying to locate the relay on my 1992 honda civic, can you help? Thank you.

1992 honda accord. Wheres the fuel pump relay [ 7 Answers ]

I need to know where the fuel pump relay is for my 1992 honda accord

1992 honda accord fuel relay location [ 1 Answers ]

I am trying to locate the fuel relay on my 1992 Honda Accord LX and I haven't had any luck thus far, I went to the dealership and was shown what one looked like, but I haven't had any luck locating it on the left side of the sterring column and above the fuse box, what I did see was a brown...

93 honda accord- what's the difference between a fuel pump relay and a main relay? [ 1 Answers ]

Starts, however it fails every few months. It intermittently just cranks and doesn't turn over. I believe it to be a fuel pump relay or a main relay. Which one could it be?

Where is the fuse or relay for the fuel pump on a 1992 honda accord lx [ 2 Answers ]

Where is the fuse or relay for the fuel pump on a 1992 honda accord lx


View more questions Search