Before I get into doing a leak down test and changing the head gasket our there other things that can be checked first.
Main relay re-soldered
The condition remained the same. Car starts every time revs 1500rpms or more. If I press the pedal in long strokes the engine will hesitate and die, but if pressed rapidly using short strokes it will keep the car running stutter to stay alive then revs at about 1500RPMS I can do this several time before it actually dies. Since this is a Honda and I'm tolled that there very tuff engine and even that it overheated a few times and is burning antifreeze could this be the problem that it wound Idle. Could it have anything to do with a heat sensor that’s telling the engine to shut off? Before I remove the cylinder head fix and reinstall to find out that the car has the same problem anyone have any Ideas?

Regards
Rjohns

If the engine overheated, you most likely have a warped head, since it's made of aluminum which doesn't like overheating. If you take the head off, make sure you measure the surface when the block meets the head (through a head gasket) and have a machine shop mill it (grind, flaten, whatever is the right word) both the block and the head, so that it doesn't leak again, once you put the new head gasket on.

Do you have any error codes? When did you last do a tune up? Can the car be driven in any way, or does it shut off every time? Does it lose coolant? Is there oil in the coolant? Is the oil bubbly and milky? Does it smoke blue or white smoke out the exhaust pipe?

Thanks for your response.
The engine has about 104000 K. When I first started to fix the car there was a code 16. So I changed the upper and lower injectors. Had the ECU checked but to make sure I borrowed one from another car to see if I'd get the same problem and sure enough same problem. I started to disconnect different sensors to see if the ECU would send the correct code and it does every time. Then changed the spark plugs distruptor cap and rotor. Cleaned the throttle body changed the fuel and oil filter replaced the radiator and cap added new antifreeze. And for sure the cylinder head gasket will need to be changed because when the car revs at 1500RPM there is white Smoke coming out of the exhaust. I know that this is a big job. So I was wondering if a blown head gasket could be causing the car to kept stalling because if it is the probable cause. Then I will change the Gasket but if its not and something else is causing the problem and the car should run fairly well or at least idle even if its burning coolant there might be something that I overlooked. It won't be to encouraging if I have the same problem once the job completed.I check the oil every time I've started the car and it's seems normal and the coolant went down from the full mark on the canister about ¾ inch but the radiator is still full.
I don't think the car can be driven anywhere without stalling but I haven't tried it. I can put it into gear and the engine will fall into a rough Idle but I didn't what to push the engine to far. I think that it can be saved.

Regards
Rjohns

Now, if the head gasket is blown, you would get a really low compression reading on some cylinders (around which the head gasket blew). So you might want to try doing that first.

I can only see coolant in combustion chamber messing things up, because the car was not designed to have coolant in combustion chambers. If it's burning coolant, I'd find it normal for it to run rough. Otherwise, we'd be pouring coolant in the gas tank instead of gas.

If you're losing coolant, make sure none of your hoses are leaking (your radiator is new, so it shouldn't be a problem). If it's not leaking ANYWHERE then it must be burning it, and the only way for coolant to get into combustion chambers is if the head gasket blew or the head cracked.

So, I'd suggest trying to do a compression test first.

Well I did a compression test and all the cylinders were good.
Started to wonder if all cylinders have good compression, that may be theirs another problem that I might have overlooked. I've done more tests to find out that the idle control diaphragm caused the fast idle. When the engine starts the vacuum pressure is sent to this controller and it would stay stuck in a fast idle position. I removed it and cleaned it and now the engine starts fine. When first started it revs about 1500Rpms and then fall to about 800Rps which is in specification on the hood label and when the engine reached normal operating temperature I turn it off and restart it revs at about 820rps. I think they’re still a few adjustment left to do before its runs OK.
As far as the White smoke coming from the exhaust it as disappeared. I believe that this condition was probably water or condensation in the exhaust system from being idle for several months.
I’ll kept posting the follow ups until the car is running better and I make the firs road test.
So I would to thank everyone how participated in the revival of this 1990 Honda civic.

Regards
Rjohns

Great news!

I'm glad you're managing to get it running right. Every little step counts.

White smoke is definitely condensation. Every Honda that I know of will burn some white smoke when it's first started... until it gets warmed up.

Keep us posted and I wish you luck with further fixing!

Honda civic 1990 duel point injection.
Does anyone know if the catalytic converter should get red hot?
I'm not sure that this is normal behavior?
Could it have anything to do with the engine timing?

Regards
rjohns