How do I fix this error code. I understand it is a water temp sensor error but where is it and what do I do. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide

Check the screens on the hoses that supply water to the unit. They must be clogged up with sediment. See: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/8010163/Whi...e%20Manual.pdf
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/8010163/Whi...e%20Manual.pdf
You can download the above service manuals.

Thanks for the advice. I'm guessing that is the little filter screen where the hose attaches to the washer. If so I checked them and there was just a very small amount of sediment on them. I got it off and trued to run it and the eroor code F 05 popped back up again. Do you have anymore advice for me by any chance? Thanks in advance.

Check the solenoids on the water valves with an ohm meter. They should read about 1-3 kilo-ohms. If the coils are open, the valves should be replaced. Then, hook up a water hose to each one and have a test cord plugged onto one solenoid at the time. With water on the one you are testing plug the cord into 120 volts. You can get the connectors at Radio Shack. Put the hot and neutral, with stake-on connectors, on each side of the solenoid coil. If the valve is good it will open. The pressure water level switch is next. The water level switch has a two black wires going in and one going out to the water valves and one to the timer. It has a hose going to the tub and water pressure pushes on the diaphragm as the water rises and shuts off the water valves when full and transfers power to timer. If no power gets through switch to start the cycle then nothing will happen; likewise, it can also fail by letting water in and opening then not closing the switch to start the cycle. As you face the front of the washer with top off you should see the pressure switch on the right side. On page 4-7 of this manual you will see the pressure switch: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/8010163/Whi...e%20Manual.pdf
One terminal is normally closed and one is normally open, so when pressure builds up it opens the normally closed going to the water valves and closes one to control board. Test it by removing it and mark which wire goes where. You will need a piece of plastic hose to attach to the switch. First, put the meter lead where the black wires plugged onto the switch and see which other terminal you get a reading of about zero on with other lead. (on ohms) If you get no reading anywhere the switch is bad. Blow on hose and you should hear a click and the switch should open the one that was normally closed and close the other one. If it does not do this the switch is bad. Make sure there are no holes or cracks in hose on washer and it is not blocked. If the switch checks out check the door switch which has three wires: black, red and brown. Between the brown (BP3) and black (BP1) you will read resistance and between brown (BP3) and red (BP2) it will be open when door is open and closed when door is closed. On page 6-4 you will see a troubleshooting procedure. Follow it and use the meter. Here are instructions: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/8010163/Whi...e%20Manual.pdf To get the actual manual it costs $6.95 for a digital download (with fees included). I can get it if you want to pay through Pay-Pal to [email protected]. Then you would be able to better diagnose it, but the manual I gave you may work fine and I hope it will. They are all about alike.