[ClayMan8572]

Howdy everyone. What I have here is a 2 year old Whirlpool Washing Machine. 3 days ago, it decided it didn't want to spin. I smelled rubber burning so I opened up the machine thinking belt failure. What I found was the direct drive coupler had failed. After replacing the coupler, I started a small load of clothes. It worked flawlessly. But on larger loads, it will not spin unless you hold down the lid switch and "jump start" it by spinning it by hand. And even after doing that it won't spin very fast or fast enough to spin all the water out. I tried a new lid switch thinking it was the culprit, but it still does that same. Any help would be greatly appreciated before I buy something I may not need.

[ClayMan8572]

I meant to say I replaced the drive coupler again thinking it was a weak part and that my next part to replace was the lid switch. It's late and has been a long day I'm sorry. Thanks!

[ClayMan8572]

I have some more light to shed on this situation. With zero clothes and a little water in this washing machine, it will start and spin perfectly! I can load 2 pairs of jeans maybe3 and it starts spinning and will do good but not perfect. So, what I have concluded is that it will not spin on it's own with clothing in it and without jump starting first. Hope this helps out.

[jmg]

Hi. I've got the identical problem to yours. I too smelled burning rubber. The spin cycle will eventually slow down until it just doesn't spin anymore.

I'm at the stage where I've done some "internet homework" and have taken the cabinet off, the water pump off, the motor off, and the coupler off. I believe the clutch is the culprit and am in the midst of finding out how to go about getting at it.

I will let you know how it goes. Perhaps we could work together, sharing our experiences?

[jmg]

Hello again,

Since my last post earlier today I've fixed the problem (everything worked, except the spin cycle eventually slowed down over time to now not spinning at all, even after giving the barrel a spin by hand to get it going while defeating the lid safety switch)

Answer: replace the clutch

Tip: check out the picture in the link below to make sure you assemble the clutch as follows:

Kenmore 90 series not spin dry

Overall, if you're somewhat handy it shouldn't be a problem. Take the time to memorize how things came apart so you can get it back together again. This sounds like an obvious piece of advice, but you'd be surprised at how many people just want to rip into the machine to get to the problem leaving a trail of parts behind them and then when it comes time to reassemble they start scratching their heads! Take your time!!

Tools: Just a couple of sockets and ratchet required along with an extension to make it easier on yourself, a couple of screwdrivers, and a light will come in handy as well.

Have fun!

[ClayMan8572]

WOW!! I do appreciate you posting this. I removed the cabinet and took everything apart. Just like I did before when I replaced the drive coupler. I got to the clutch and what I found was pieces!! About 6 pieces of some spring like stuff in there. I installed the new clutch assembly (Less than $25 on Ebay) and it has neeeever worked this good!! While I was in there, I replaced the lid switch (Ebay $14) and the pump itself (Ebay $13) they were cheap parts and the washer works like new again!! Thanks a lot!

[jmg]

I'm glad it worked out well for you.

After I fixed my machine I realized just how slowly the performance had deteriorated before the repair. Now the spin cycle is a blurrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!

Take care.

[ClayMan8572]

I agree. The spin cycle before was 2 miles an hour compared to now. I also changed the water pump, lid switch, and the washer fill valve while I was in there. Consider it preventative maint because the parts were cheap ($40 all together)