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    kurtwz's Avatar
    kurtwz Posts: 16, Reputation: 1
    New Member

    Mar 7, 2009, 05:30 PM
    Maytag Dryer Auto Dry Not Heating (Model: PYE2300AYW)
    Hello, I'm having a similar problem to the one discussed here:

    My dryer heats properly in timed mode, but not in auto mode. I've checked the circuit breakers and they're on, and I've checked the plumbing/duct work and it's clear (filter, vent in back, exhaust duct, chimney). I suspect the problem resides with the wetness sensor, but I can't find the sensor by visual inspection. I haven't disassembled anything yet. Could somebody tell me how to find/replace the sensors, please?

    Thank you!


    Other Info:
    -Don't think the load size is the problem because the problem has existed for 2-4 weeks now of load with varying size.
    -Dryer is from Sep, 2001
    -Fabric softener build up is not the problem because we don't use it.
    kurtwz's Avatar
    kurtwz Posts: 16, Reputation: 1
    New Member

    Mar 10, 2009, 08:18 AM
    Guys, I still need help with this question and the boss (my wife) expects me to fix it soon. I'm pretty handy, but have never cracked open an appliance, so I have no idea what to look for. If anyone has information to add, I will be eternally grateful!
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
    Heating & Air Conditioning Expert

    Mar 10, 2009, 10:00 AM
    Look here

    Part Advantage :: Category Search

    This offers exploded vues of the internal parts along with a parts list. I did not see a wetness sensor but I did see about 3 different thermostats on different pages.
    kurtwz's Avatar
    kurtwz Posts: 16, Reputation: 1
    New Member

    Mar 10, 2009, 02:31 PM
    Got it fixed. Thanks for the diagram. If anybody has this question in the future, I'm hoping they'll find this documented.

    OK, hereís that I learned: to fix the auto dry feature of most dryers, follow these preliminary steps:

    -Make sure the exhaust duct is clean and free of obstructions or kinks. The machine needs the ability to push the air out freely or auto dry will not work. The way the machine senses when cloths are dry is with heat (or the absence thereof). Itís not with the amount of moisture, so donít go looking for a moisture sensor (at least not on this model). If the cloths are damp, they will absorb the heat that the machine makes, so the lower temperature will indicate to the machine that they are not dry. When cloths are dry, the temperature will rise rapidly, so the machine will not apply heat. Where the problem takes place is when the exhaust is blocked. Heat will build up naturally, so the machine will go into the stage it would be in if the cloths are dry.
    -Make sure circuit breakers are on. Some houses have the heater element and fan element on separate circuits.
    -Make sure the timed dry feature works. If the timed try works while the auto dry does not (and all the steps above check out), you know you have a problem with the parts that control the auto dry feature.

    Here's how you get to the thermostat and fuse (Note: preview entire directions before starting to make sure this is something you want to get in to and also to evaluate another disassembly method):


    1) Unplug the machine.

    2) On the back side of the machine at the top left and right you'll see two silverish bars that attach the top of the machine to the base. There are two screws (with a hex head) attaching them to the frame. Remove those screws.

    3) Use a screwdriver or something else to pry the bars out as you lift the top panel up. You'll need to use a little force.

    4) The rear should now be free. You can now go to the front to detach it. It's simply a friction fit as well. Use a screwdriver or something else to stick between the top panel and the chassis. It should pop right off. ALTERNATIVELY: I believe you could, in theory pop the top front and top rear off without removing any fasteners just by prying off the front (step 4 first) and then pulling the back towards the front to free it. This isnít the method I used, but it would be quicker and easier if it works.

    5) Now go back to the rear of the machine. Look straight down midway right-to-left and you should see the thermostat. Remove the bracket it's on so you can work with the piece more easily. It's attached with a hex screw as well.

    6) Remove the two hex screws that attach the thermostat to the bracket. Be careful because these screws are smaller than any of the others I came across. Don't get them confused. Lastly, pull off ONE of the wire terminals ONLY. Attach that terminal to the new thermostat paying attention to plug it into the correct pole. You'll see a "+" or "-" sign (or both) on the replacement. If this is all youíre replacing, youíre done swapping parts. Put everything back together and test. If youíre also replacing the fuse, don't put the thermostat bracket back on yet.

    7) Now find the screw thatís just to the left (when viewed from the back of the machine) of the bracket you just took off. Itís the one thatís pointing straight down and situated between two wire terminals. Remove it and you should be able to pull the heating element out. With the heating element out of the way, you should be able to pull the fuse and the bracket that itís on straight out of the machine. Replace the fuse.

    8) Reassemble machine and test.
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
    Heating & Air Conditioning Expert

    Mar 10, 2009, 04:33 PM
    Interesting. I always serviced them from the front after I popped the lid and pulled the drum. Good job glad you got it going
    kurtwz's Avatar
    kurtwz Posts: 16, Reputation: 1
    New Member

    Mar 10, 2009, 05:02 PM

    Well, that could very well be an easier way still. I don't really know the most efficient way because this was my first time inside an appliance.
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
    Heating & Air Conditioning Expert

    Mar 10, 2009, 05:13 PM
    My shop used to charge flat rate so the faster the work got done the more profit was made. Usually by the time one part in there goes bad it is time to also replace the drive bely and check all bearing surfaces for wear. By going in the front it leaves all of that exposed for service and you do not have to drag the machine out from the wall to get behind it. If you have to do it again for some reason try the front way since it might be quicker. It is good that you got it going no matter which way you did it..

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