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    laursking's Avatar
    laursking Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Apr 30, 2006, 01:15 PM
    Kenmore Elite washer not spinning/agitating
    I have the same washer as SerTam (dated 4/2/06). Model #110.20052 992
    The washer filled and the light said it was washing but it was just making a horrible buzzing sound. It was not agitating. I was able to get it to drain though. It also would stop draining if I raised the lid so I don't think it's that. I haven't specifically tried spinning but I figure if it won't agitate it won't spin.
    Thoughts?
    applguy's Avatar
    applguy Posts: 324, Reputation: 23
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    #2

    May 1, 2006, 05:42 PM
    How long did the noise last? What exactly did you do to get it to drain? What was the load you had in it? Do you know how old the unit is? Was it a constant noise, or did it quickly start and stop repeatedly? Try to spin and agitate again (in that order) and let me know what happens.
    laursking's Avatar
    laursking Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    May 2, 2006, 07:35 AM
    The noise is constant (until I turn the unit off). I cancelled the current cycle and did a drain/spin cycle. It drained but did not spin. No spinning or agitating. The load was a couple sweatshirts and a couple pairs of jeans. The unit is about 9 years old. I'm the only owner and have never replaced anything or had it serviced. (PS - I also don't have kids - so it hasn't been used alot)
    applguy's Avatar
    applguy Posts: 324, Reputation: 23
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    #4

    May 6, 2006, 03:17 PM
    Sounds like you probably have a broken drive coupler. This washer doesn't have a belt, but the coupler is the equivalent of a belt. It establishes a connection between the drive motor and the transmission. When it breaks, the unit will fill and drain, but won't agitate or spin. The noise is usually the broken parts hitting each other as the motor runs. This repair is really easy for me, but a novice may consider it slightly difficult. If you want me to describe how to do it, I can. The part number of the coupler I always use is 285852, usually costing around 20.00.
    burny's Avatar
    burny Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    May 6, 2006, 08:05 PM
    Where do you buy this part? Can you describe how to d it? I guess the cabinet is removed. Does the pump have to be removed?
    applguy's Avatar
    applguy Posts: 324, Reputation: 23
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    #6

    May 7, 2006, 08:54 AM
    The part should be readily available at any service department, including Sears. Once the cabinet is off, you remove the pump and drive motor. These are held in place with straps that are simply removed by prying off with a screwdriver. There may be 2 screws through the straps for the motor, so just unscrew them. Unplug the motor and capacitor (on the side of the motor). The motor pulls straight off towards you and there is the coupler. You might disassemble it to make sure it's broken before you buy a new one. I usually use a 3/8" ratchet extension and small hammer to lightly tap the new couplers onto the motor and transmission shafts until they are flush with the top of the shaft. Don't hit them too hard or drive them too far, or they may crack. Then just line them up and slide the motor back into position, making sure the 4 rubber motor grommets are in place, and finish reassembling the unit. If you have questions about anything you see, let me know.
    burny's Avatar
    burny Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    May 7, 2006, 01:20 PM
    Wow, I found a store open today and got the part for $16. Everything was pretty easy. Most difficult part for me was lining the motor back up and hitting the holes on the black rubber piece. Which piece do you usually put the black rubber thing? The removed motor or the fixed part on the washing machine? Also used a 1/2" ratched extension to tap the plastic pieces on. Just finished a test run and everything works fine. I am ordering another coupler assembly off Ebay for less than $10 so I will have one on hand if this happens again. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge.
    applguy's Avatar
    applguy Posts: 324, Reputation: 23
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    #8

    May 8, 2006, 05:02 PM
    I usually put the grommet on the transmission side, but I don't think it would make much difference. Congrats.
    thxamillion's Avatar
    thxamillion Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    Aug 4, 2008, 08:05 PM
    I would just like to say thanks to applguy if you ever read this post again. We had the same problem with our washer. We followed the instructions and sure enough the coupler was broken. It definitely took work to get to the part but we did it. Thanks again!
    workslikeacharm's Avatar
    workslikeacharm Posts: 1, Reputation: 2
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    #10

    Sep 14, 2009, 03:33 PM
    Following the instructions here and washer now works. If you need to know how to remove washer cabinet check out this link: http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html#remove
    champion1's Avatar
    champion1 Posts: 6, Reputation: 0
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    #11

    Sep 18, 2009, 12:50 PM
    Here is the best site.. It's a DIY site and the best way to go if your going to repair an appliance by yourself..

    Link
    Mentl's Avatar
    Mentl Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #12

    Feb 5, 2012, 04:33 PM
    Thanks to appleguy, I was able to fix my washer for a grand total of $21.65 instead of calling a service/repair company and paying a couple of hundred.

    Mentl


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