My front loading Whirlpool Duet Washer Model #WFW94HEXW2 stopped working while in a wash cycle with error codes E01 and F06. There were some suds behind the machine. We unplugged and re-plugged. Cleaned out the drain. It will not start. Turns on and click once to lock the door, but doesn't do a second and third click to actually run the machine. Any suggestions?

Search YouTube because they have a step-by-step way to fix some error codes on this trouble-prone machine.

Check the solenoids on the water valves with an ohm meter. They should read about 1-3 kilo-ohms. If the coils are open, the valves should be replaced. Then, hook up a water hose to each one and have a test cord plugged onto one solenoid at the time. With water on the one you are testing plug the cord into 120 volts. You can get the connectors at Radio Shack. Put the hot and neutral, with stake-on connectors, on each side of the solenoid coil. If the valve is good it will open. The pressure water level switch is next. The water level switch has a two black wires going in and one going out to the water valves and one to the timer. It has a hose going to the tub and water pressure pushes on the diaphragm as the water rises and shuts off the water valves when full and transfers power to timer. If no power gets through switch to start the cycle then nothing will happen; likewise, it can also fail by letting water in and opening then not closing the switch to start the cycle. As you face the front of the washer with top off you should see the pressure switch on the right side. On page 4-7 of this manual you will see the pressure switch: One terminal is normally closed and one is normally open, so when pressure builds up it opens the normally closed going to the water valves and closes one to control board. Test it by removing it and mark which wire goes where. You will need a piece of plastic hose to attach to the switch. First, put the meter lead where the black wires plugged onto the switch and see which other terminal you get a reading of about zero on with other lead. (on ohms) If you get no reading anywhere the switch is bad. Blow on hose and you should hear a click and the switch should open the one that was normally closed and close the other one. If it does not do this the switch is bad. Make sure there are no holes or cracks in hose on washer and it is not blocked. If the switch checks out check the door switch which has three wires: black, red and brown. Between the brown (BP3) and black (BP1) you will read resistance and between brown (BP3) and red (BP2) it will be open when door is open and closed when door is closed. On page 6-4 you will see a troubleshooting procedure. Follow it and use the meter.
Another problem common with that lemon of a machine is corroded connections at the circuit board and other connections. You should take off each connector and check for corrosion; and remember: Wires have connections on both ends, and you can also have corrosion on the circuit board that can short out components on the board. This machine has way too many electronic parts near water and from my experience corrosion always results unless the parts are sealed, which they are not on a washing machine.
Here are instructions: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/8010163/Whi...e%20Manual.pdf (This is one I referred to above, unless I erred, but you will find much good information you can use, as long as you buy a good digital multimeter.)
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...0Job%20Aid.pdf
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...ult_Codes.docx
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...e%20Codes.docx
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...e%20Manual.pdf
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...20Handbook.pdf