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nervous
Apr 10, 2005, 10:13 PM
What is the best method for finishing the drywall edges when placing them over the panels of a 3-piece, pre-fab shower surround unit. I know caulk is an option but it's 5/8" greenboard and it would seem that you would need a pretty perfect cut to make this look good seeing as it's the most visible edge and that's a pretty large caulk bead. Not sure how this gets done. I have considered j-bead but you can't mud over that.

Thanks in advance.

labman
Apr 11, 2005, 08:55 AM
Caulk and trim are a carpenter's 2 best friends. In this case, a strip of 1/2'' quarter round painted to match the dry wall or other trim will leave a finished look. If you can't use nails, glue it in place. Another option is to flat tape it. Fill the crack with mud, run tape right to the edge of the shower, and mud over it.

summer
Jul 23, 2005, 09:43 PM
I have what will probably be an easy question for most of you. When you dry wall the walls of the shower do you you put it over the lip of the new shower? Or should the dry wall be put in before the shower? I appreciate any help. Thank You.

labman
Jul 23, 2005, 10:51 PM
Drywall first. Be sure and use the blue waterproof stuff.

ronaldens
Nov 24, 2005, 08:45 PM
In our part of the continent (British Columbia) we install the shower or tub enclosure, drywall to the flange then mud and flat tape. When the painting is done it doesn't hurt to put a bead of caulking around the opening.

sandraberg
Dec 11, 2008, 09:41 AM
When installing the fiberglass shower surround do you screw the flange directly the studs then apply the drywall over the flange?

shoproland
Dec 11, 2008, 10:08 AM
If at all possible, always screw flange to studs first, then install wall coverings. Water tends to have trouble travelling uphill. Is this thread frayed?

shoproland
Dec 11, 2008, 10:13 AM
Back to the question by nervous, Labman is correct. The only thing I don't agree with is caulk and trim being a carpenters best friend. I like putty. We call it "Carpenter in a Tub". All kidding aside, Labman has the simplest and cleanest resolution. It will be a clean look for your shower surround.

ballengerb1
Dec 11, 2008, 05:27 PM
Do you folks know you are talking to a guy who finished this project 3 years ago? Sometimes pays to check when the post gets started.

kepdawg
Dec 12, 2008, 07:57 AM
Still a fun topic.
What I have done is butt up the factory edge of the drywall to the fiberglass, then the rough edge is usually in a corner where I tape and mud as usuall.
Then add a trim piece/caulk/tape/mud etc... depending on the look the client wants

shoproland
Dec 12, 2008, 06:20 PM
Man, how embarrassing. I believe I will be checking those dates from now on. You all have a great day. Roland

arby808
Jan 18, 2009, 09:35 AM
I own a drywall co and the best way to do this is to cut the drywall back from the edges of the tubso it sits on the studs not over the lip of the tub . Now mix a product called durabond 90 or easysand 90 fill the gap between the tub and the drywall let it harden tape over the durabond with paper drywall tape coat over the tape 2 time sand it prime it paint it and then calk around the tub so no moisture can get behind the drywall

Ed Case
Jul 23, 2011, 09:16 AM
Use 1/2" m.r. drywall (moisture resistant)and run it over the tub flange right up-to the finished shower edge. Then "flat-tape" the joint between the shower and the drywall with standard drywall tape and finish the drywall edge to the shower with 3 coats of drywall compound sand it smooth after the final coat has dried completely.

I have a 25 Videos on basement finishing at The Basement Finishing Store (http://www.basementfinishingvideos.com)

Good luck with the shower project!

Eddie

kirochka13
Mar 27, 2012, 12:02 PM
I don't care how long ago anyone finished the project that started this original thread, I really appreciate it still being out here, because I, too, am now faced with this same issue. We did screw the tub walls directly to the studs, but because this house is somewhat crooked it added more complexity. The top of the surround along the back wall (supposedly 60") is somehow flush with the wallboard coming down from the ceilling, where as the other 2 sides allowed for the wallboard to be slightly over it. This whole ordeal has been a nightmare. I will never replace a tub in an exhisting house ever again. That saying "It's easier to give birth, than resurrect the dead" is so true!!

Milo Dolezal
Mar 27, 2012, 12:24 PM
Depends what kind of surround you have. One type has 3/4" lip that nails over studs than drywall goes over it. If you make nice beveled cut, the seem to caulk is minimal. You won't even notice it. Here, I assume you know how to work with caulk. Milo

kirochka13
Mar 27, 2012, 12:32 PM
I chose the American Standar Clean tub and Clean 3 piece wall surround. I thought the removal of the cast iron tub was bad until I'm to the final stages of making this look nice and sealed up. :-(