What is the best method for finishing the drywall edges when placing them over the panels of a 3-piece, pre-fab shower surround unit. I know caulk is an option but it's 5/8" greenboard and it would seem that you would need a pretty perfect cut to make this look good seeing as it's the most visible edge and that's a pretty large caulk bead. Not sure how this gets done. I have considered j-bead but you can't mud over that.

Thanks in advance.

Caulk and trim are a carpenter's 2 best friends. In this case, a strip of 1/2'' quarter round painted to match the dry wall or other trim will leave a finished look. If you can't use nails, glue it in place. Another option is to flat tape it. Fill the crack with mud, run tape right to the edge of the shower, and mud over it.

I have what will probably be an easy question for most of you. When you dry wall the walls of the shower do you you put it over the lip of the new shower? Or should the dry wall be put in before the shower? I appreciate any help. Thank You.

Drywall first. Be sure and use the blue waterproof stuff.

In our part of the continent (British Columbia) we install the shower or tub enclosure, drywall to the flange then mud and flat tape. When the painting is done it doesn't hurt to put a bead of caulking around the opening.

When installing the fiberglass shower surround do you screw the flange directly the studs then apply the drywall over the flange?

If at all possible, always screw flange to studs first, then install wall coverings. Water tends to have trouble travelling uphill. Is this thread frayed?

Back to the question by nervous, Labman is correct. The only thing I don't agree with is caulk and trim being a carpenters best friend. I like putty. We call it "Carpenter in a Tub". All kidding aside, Labman has the simplest and cleanest resolution. It will be a clean look for your shower surround.

Do you folks know you are talking to a guy who finished this project 3 years ago? Sometimes pays to check when the post gets started.

Still a fun topic.
What I have done is butt up the factory edge of the drywall to the fiberglass, then the rough edge is usually in a corner where I tape and mud as usuall.
Then add a trim piece/caulk/tape/mud etc... depending on the look the client wants

Man, how embarrassing. I believe I will be checking those dates from now on. You all have a great day. Roland

I own a drywall co and the best way to do this is to cut the drywall back from the edges of the tubso it sits on the studs not over the lip of the tub . Now mix a product called durabond 90 or easysand 90 fill the gap between the tub and the drywall let it harden tape over the durabond with paper drywall tape coat over the tape 2 time sand it prime it paint it and then calk around the tub so no moisture can get behind the drywall

Use 1/2" m.r. drywall (moisture resistant)and run it over the tub flange right up-to the finished shower edge. Then "flat-tape" the joint between the shower and the drywall with standard drywall tape and finish the drywall edge to the shower with 3 coats of drywall compound sand it smooth after the final coat has dried completely.

I have a 25 Videos on basement finishing at The Basement Finishing Store (http://www.basementfinishingvideos.com)

Good luck with the shower project!

Eddie

I don't care how long ago anyone finished the project that started this original thread, I really appreciate it still being out here, because I, too, am now faced with this same issue. We did screw the tub walls directly to the studs, but because this house is somewhat crooked it added more complexity. The top of the surround along the back wall (supposedly 60") is somehow flush with the wallboard coming down from the ceilling, where as the other 2 sides allowed for the wallboard to be slightly over it. This whole ordeal has been a nightmare. I will never replace a tub in an exhisting house ever again. That saying "It's easier to give birth, than resurrect the dead" is so true!!

Depends what kind of surround you have. One type has 3/4" lip that nails over studs than drywall goes over it. If you make nice beveled cut, the seem to caulk is minimal. You won't even notice it. Here, I assume you know how to work with caulk. Milo

I chose the American Standar Clean tub and Clean 3 piece wall surround. I thought the removal of the cast iron tub was bad until I'm to the final stages of making this look nice and sealed up. :-(