Bath remodel next questions:
Below are two schematics with two new floor plans
I hope they will help me make my questions more clearly understood
(Tub is on outside wall of slab on grand construction – likely a grade beam of concrete along the back wall).

1) In upper left where the shower was – I will move a vanity – I have been advised not to use the shower drain as it has a trap and you cannot use a double trap. – Ok then. So now the idea is to put the drain into the wall and bring it to the existing 2”vent- tap into the vent with sanitary tee. Cap off the old shower drain and fill that hole with concrete.
2) Toilet move (thanks for answers to previous post) in good shape – concrete busted out and existing line exposed – new connection will be a flange to 4” to 90 4”X3” to 22 degree coupling to existing line. That should get me hooked up – uses same vent – no issues there. ( I hope)


3) New shower location ONE: wife threw me a curveball – hence two floor plans
a. Adjacent to tub (her new idea) in the first schematic. I will have to bust out concrete to get a drain in the floor :
b. Can I tie the new shower drain into the existing tub drain
c. Do I tie in above the tub trap ( if possible – enough room)
I. If I tie in above trap do I not put a trap in shower drain? As the tub trap would be a trap for both? Center of new shower location to tub trap is about 3' – 4 '
d. Should shower drain be 2”?
e. Is existing vent ( for removed sink and tub adequate for tub and shower)
f. Is a center drain preferable or is it OK to offset it such that it is close to the existing tub drain ( less concrete to break out)
g. If a and b are not correct I must find one of the other lines to tie into?

4) New shower location TWO:
a. Across from the tub in second schematic. I will have to bust out concrete to get a drain in the floor - tie into toilet (3”) drain with 3X3 hub with 2” long sweep connector
b. Now I must put a trap on shower drain
c. Should shower drain be 2”?
d. Is existing 2” vent OK for both toilet and shower
e. Is a center drain preferable or is it OK to offset it such that it is close to the exposed toilet drain (trench) as there is less concrete to break out
I hope this I not too much to ask and thank you in advance for your answers

Perhap this is too many questions for one post?
If so my appoligue

You're just fine. I have poor eyesight and have a hard time reading prints, We have sharp experts here and I'll shake one out to answer you. Tom

It is a lot of questions, but I can help tomorrow sometime if you confirm that you will be back to review my answer, OK?

Mark

OK you bet that I will and thank you very much
It is a lot of questions, but I can help tomorrow sometime if you confirm that you will be back to review my answer, OK?

Mark

Hi MLBDIY

1) all sounds correct here.

2) also sounds good

3a) Yes, you'll need to break open the floor.

3b) Tub drains are 1.5" and shower drains need to be 2", but if you are lucky that tub drain will be 2" AFTER the PTRAP. If you find 2" then you can definitely connect into that drain for the new shower. If you find only 1.5" after the tub ptrap then you could connect into it, increase it to 2" and pipe up the shower drain... just won't be to code.

3c) No you do NOT cut into into/above the tub ptrap... eliminate this.

3d) Shower drain needs to be 2" and must have its own 2" ptrap located directly under the new shower strainer.

3e) If sink drain is capped off then you can use the sink vent as the shower vent.

3f) If this is a custom shower floor then you decide where it goes... just will be pitching the floor as needed. When you build this custom shower be sure to pop back to consult on proper way to do the job... MANY people screw these up!

3g) see 3b

4a) yes, install a 3"x2" combination wye and pick up the new shower PTRAP. The toilet vent can act as a wet vent for the shower.

4b) yes

4c) yes

4d) yes

4e) same as 3f above... ;)

Back to you...

Mark

I realized I have asked for lots of information and I definitely appreciate the generosity of your time thank you very much. I will post pics as I progress.


Hi MLBDIY

1) all sounds correct here.

2) also sounds good

3a) Yes, you'll need to break open the floor.

3b) Tub drains are 1.5" and shower drains need to be 2", but if you are lucky that tub drain will be 2" AFTER the PTRAP. If you find 2" then you can definitely connect into that drain for the new shower. If you find only 1.5" after the tub ptrap then you could connect into it, increase it to 2" and pipe up the shower drain...just won't be to code.

3c) No you do NOT cut into into/above the tub ptrap...eliminate this.

3d) Shower drain needs to be 2" and must have its own 2" ptrap located directly under the new shower strainer.

3e) If sink drain is capped off then you can use the sink vent as the shower vent.

3f) If this is a custom shower floor then you decide where it goes...just will be pitching the floor as needed. When you build this custom shower be sure to pop back to consult on proper way to do the job...MANY people screw these up!

3g) see 3b

4a) yes, install a 3"x2" combination wye and pick up the new shower PTRAP. The toilet vent can act as a wet vent for the shower.

4b) yes

4c) yes

4d) yes

4e) same as 3f above...;)

Back to you...

Mark

Don't forget to consult with us if you are building a custom shower with custom shower pan... ;)

I definitely will do exactly that.
Thanks again for your help. I am going to try to get a final location for the new shower from the wife in a day or two and begin phase two of slab cutting.

As I will now put a ptrap under the strainer is there any certain amount of “head” I need (or perhaps I should ask how deep should I put the ptrap? - I ask because the pips are shallow as this is the back of the house and clean out is in the front. –

I know I need ¼” drop per 1’ run – I am hoping I have enough room!

You guys are generous with your time/expertise thank you