Where is the fuel pump and relay for a 1992 honda accord ex?

. Fuel pump is in the gas tank.

. Main relay is located under the dash, left of the steering column (hidden by silver cruise control box, which needs to be removed).

A mechanic said that the fuel pump was under the back seat (and he actually commented that it was great because it was easier because the fuel tank doesn't have to be taken off)... but I needed to know where at under the back seat...

Thanks!

It's located in the gas tank, but access is gained by removing the rear seat and a cover plate on the gas tank.

What's not great is that the fuel pump is likely fine and he'll likely be wasting your money. I have never seen a Honda fuel pump go bad. Mechanics replace them, when they really don't understand how the Honda fuel system operates--it's big money. Go slow!

So do you think the problem may just be the fuel relay? If it is that would be great!

That's possible, but the problem may be much simpler.

. Check all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter. Particularly test the ACG(ALT)(S) fuse, located in the under dash fuse box.

. Clean the main ECM ground, located on the thermostat housing. Look for a 3-wire brass connector.

. Test the ECM (computer). Does the Check Engine Light come on for 2 seconds and then go out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)?

The check engine light has been on since I bought the car 8 months ago.
Could you please give me suggestions as to what I should get at the auto store? I have to use a bus to get to the auto parts store and I really need to get this car moving because my friend to the doctors on Monday. Thank you for helping me, I really appreciate your help!

Mechanics love to sell people on the idea that the fuel pump or main relay is bad, without first diagnosing why the Check Engine Light (CEL) stays on. Usually, it's a waste of money.

If the CEL does not go out (i.e. stays on), most Hondas of this generation will not spark and the fuel pump will not run. Therefore, all efforts should first be directed to correcting that problem.

If the CEL does not come on for 2 seconds and then go out, when the ignition switch is turned to Position II, the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) 15 amp fuse, in the under dash fuse/relay box; ECM (perform the K-Test, below); main relay; or the ignition switch. Perform tests in that order.

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

Ok what I need is the car to run because I need it... so I don't understand if you are saying that I need to go through the steps you just said to get the cel to go off or get the car running or both?
Sorry to be confusing but I am new at this.

Thanks for being patient with me

Yes, you need to go through the steps I outlined. They really are not too difficult.

How long has it been since the car started and ran normally?

The car was running fine the other day when I drove it, then we had a really bad storm and it hasn't been driven in about 2 days. And this morning it sputtered and conies out about 3 times before it completely died. It tries to turn over but doesn't.

1. Are you saying the starter motor cranks the engine but it won't start?
2. Do you suspect the battery is drained?
3. When you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), can you hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run?

It sounds like your CEL has been on for 8 months, because it has thrown one or more codes. It would be good to have someone read those codes for you. The CEL staying on, from previously thrown codes, may be interfering with you using the CEL to diagnose the problem at hand.

1. Yes
2. No the mechanic put the charger on it
3. I don't know, what is it supposed to sound like?

Thanks

I don't know how to get someone to read why my CEL is on because I can't move the car.

Go out and turn the ignition switch to ON. Open the lid to the gas tank and tell me if you can hear the fuel pump motor run for 2 seconds. Have someone else listen, if necessary. Can you do that?

Here's how to check for codes yourself:

Service Check Connector (SCC): Reading OBD-I Codes

When the Check Engine Light (CEL) is on, it will be necessary to locate the 2-pin Service Check Connector (SCC) on OBD-I (pre-1996) Hondas. It is normally located under the dash, approximately 1 inch (2.5cm) from the right kick panel. Take a small screwdriver and carefully pry it from the rubber mount. The other 3-pin connector in the rubber mount is the Data Link Connector (DLC), which should be left alone. Jump the SCC with a paper clip, turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), and count the number of times, if any, the CEL flashes. Reference a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) chart to identify the code being displayed.

You have an old code(s) that have caused the CEL to stay on. Clear the old codes by disconnecting the negative battery cable for 10 seconds and then reconnect it. Then, turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II) and tell me if the CEL comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out. If you can also hear the fuel pump run, during this 2 second interval, then is suspect you have a problem where the Ignition Control Module (ICM) inside the distributor may have failed. It could also be moisture inside the distributor cap, since you mentioned rain. I'm very skeptical the fuel pump has anything to do with your problem.

Don't have someone else to listen and I tried to hear it myself but I didn't hear anything. What does it sound like?

Humm. Crank driver's window down, while you listen.

Your suggestion of the distributor makes more sense to me than the fuel pump... right now I can't hear anything, and my friend said he.can.help me tomorrow. If I go out and try this tomorrow can you still help me?

And

And how hard is the ICM to replace and how sure can you be sure that it is the ICM?

I did roll down the window and I still didn't hear anything
.. what should I be listening for?

If you can't hear the fuel pump run, you need to start with the basics:

. Test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter.

. Clean the main ECM ground on the thermostat housing, using abrasive cloth or sandpaper.

. Perform the K-Test on the ECM.

. Check for codes, via the Service Check Connector.

I can still help you tomorrow.

Thank you very much! You have been very helpful to me and I think you may have saved me a boatload of money.

I will post tomorrow when I check these things out.

Thanks again!

What have you found out?

I am on call this weekend with my work... so I am wasn't able to do anything... but I will go work on it tomorrow... I will post you when I find out anything... I printed out everything that you suggested and I will be trying everything... thank you so much for helping me.. I will let you know what I find out...

Thanks again!

OK, here's the update...
My friend and I went out and was working on the car, going down the list of to-do's that you suggested... and then he asked me to start it up, and I did,and it started right up... I was shocked! I drove it around for a bit and it conked out a few times and the oil light flickered. So I checked it out and the oil is not short, it is where it is supposed to be, so he said there may be water in my gas, so I put a bottle of anti-freeze for fuel and a bottle of octane booster... it seems to be running a bit better, but my friend said he doesn't think it is the fuel pump...

What do you think??

1. Did you clean the main ECM ground?

2. Does the CEL consistently come on for 2 seconds and then go out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)?

3. What voltage did you read, when you performed the K-Test?

Adding those items to your gas usually doesn't make a difference. Since the car runs for a little while and cuts out, I sense the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil, located inside the distributor, need replacing. These problematic components should be replaced every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. When you replace the ICM, be sure to apply silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM; otherwise, it won't last long.

We had a hard time getting the ECM plug undone.. so we couldn't get to that...

The CEL has always been on, it never has gone out...

I can't get the plug under the dash undone to do the KTest...

And I am guessing since the car has over 275,000 miles on it, the ICM and coil has never been replaced... should I do the aboves tests still or just change those parts? And where do I get the silicone heat transfer compond?

Thanks for your help!

Just replace the ICM and coil. The silicone grease is usually included with the new ICM.

Did you clean the main ECM ground?

Ignition Control Module (ICM or Igniter) and Coil Replacement

Bench testing ICMs and coils is virtually useless. It does not come close to simulating the extreme heat that often causes these components to fail. I recommend replacing these critical and problematic components every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.


1. Disconnect negative battery cable, recording any radio codes first.

2. Remove hex-head machine screws (3), securing distributor cap to housing, using an 8mm nut driver.

3. Move distributor cap and wires off to the side.

4. Remove machine screw securing rotor to shaft, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver. A 1/4-inch drive magnetic bit holder (e.g. Wiha 52650) with a #2 Phillips head bit works really well. It may be necessary to "hit" the starter once or twice, in order to rotate rotor for access to mounting screw.

5. Remove rotor and leak cover.

6. Unfasten ICM wires, remove coil mounting screws (on distributors with a coil inside), and set coil aside. Trick: Removing the coil first, on distributors with a coil inside, improves access to the ICM.

7. Remove both screws securing heat sink to housing, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver.

8. Remove heat sink from distributor and unfasten both screws mounting ICM to heat sink, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver.

9. Clean connections with #240 abrasive cloth or steel wool.

10. Coat the back of the new ICM (or old ICM, if reusing) with a thin, even coat of silicone heat transfer compound. This special silicone grease increases heat transfer to the heat sink. Failure to apply silicone heat transfer compound will cause the ICM to quickly fail. Arctic Silver 5 is recommended by an AMHD member, which is available at Radio Shack.

If the ICM and the heat sink are simply placed together, the small air gaps (insulator) that naturally exist between them will inhibit heat transfer. By filling these gaps, the compound allows a direct path through which heat can travel. Failure to apply this grease is one reason why some Hondas suddenly die. Attention to detail makes a big difference with modern day electronics.

11. Mount ICM to heat sink and reinstall ICM, ICM terminal wires, coil, coil wires, leak cover, rotor, and distributor cap. Ensure female ICM connectors fit snugly--crimp with pliers, if necessary.


Conceptually, the ICM is a large output transistor (switch) controlling current through the primary coil. ICMs replace points and condenser in older vehicles. In the primary coil, current builds to 5 to 12 amps, generating lots of heat (due to inductance). Then, the ECM controls when the ICM "switches off" current to the primary coil, causing amperage to go to zero. When this happens, 12 to 14 volts in the primary coil is "stepped-up" to 30,000 volts in the secondary coil. This process creates a "type" of alternating current required for the coil (step-up transformer) to work. In a properly working ICM, timing is precisely when needed to fire each spark plug.

Bottom Line: ICMs and coils take a beating.

After you replace the ICM and coil, disconnect the negative battery cable for 10 seconds. This should clear any old codes from the ECM. Now, see if the Check Engine Light comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II).

Can you please tell me how to clean the ECM ground? I can't disconnect to to clean it and what do I clean it with??

The ICM and the coil will be in tomorrow at noon, so I can install them then... but should I clean the ECM first before I install the parts??

Thanks!

It's a good idea. Remove the 10mm bolt and use abrasive cloth or sandpaper to remove any corrosion from the connector.

Ok maybe I am looking in the wrong spot because I don't see a bolt... it is a plastic box that looks like it unsnaps...

Do u think cleaning the ECM will fix the problem instead of replacing the parts?

Forget, then, about cleaning the main ECM ground. I believe replacing the ICM and coil is what's really important, now, to get it to reliably start and stay running. Afterwards, be sure to disconnect the negative battery cable for 10 seconds, to clear all old codes stored in the ECM.

Better, yet, you really should disconnect the negative battery cable, prior to replacing the ICM and coil. This will prevent an accident, where you short something out.

Read my instructions carefully on how to replace the ICM and coil.

Great! We will be working on that tomorrow! I'llblet you know!
Thanks for all you help!

I've ran into two problems...

I can't get the bolts off the harness to get the coil out... is there are trick to that?

I can't get the rotor off the shaft under the distributor cap to replace the ICM... is there a trick to that? I broke the plastic harness that is underneath the rotor, but I am sure I can glue that back together...

Please help...

Thanks!

The only "trick" is to use a quality #2 Phillips Head Screwdriver. Use a lot of pressure on the screwdriver, if necessary, so you don't bugger up the heads.

To get access to the screw securing the rotor, you may need to have a friend hit the starter once or twice. This will rotate it so you can use your #2 Phillip Head Screwdriver and remove the screw. NO GLUING ALLOWED! If necessary, get a mechanic, or mechanically inclined friend, to help.

I often completely remove the distributor and place it on my workbench, to replace the ICM and coil.

Here's how to remove and install the distributor:

Distributor Replacement

At AskMeHelpDesk.com, over 50% of new aftermarket distributors for Hondas have not worked out of the box. Many of those that initially worked didn't last very long. Therefore, I only recommend genuine Honda distributor housings. It's fine to buy a Honda housing and install an aftermarket Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil, to keep the cost down. Three reasons account for the majority of Honda distributors needing replacement: orange dust, oil inside, or failed sensors.

1. Disconnect negative battery cable, after recording radio code.

2. Remove #2 Phillips head screw, securing 2-P and 8-P connector mount to the side of the distributor, using a precision screwdriver. Access is often improved if the air filter cover is removed first, using an 8mm nut driver. Separate 2-P and 8-P electrical connectors. The trick to separating these connectors is to squeeze the connector's mounting release first and remove from mount. Then, the connector will separate--do not force.

3. Mark distributor housing and bracket, for timing to be close later, using a scribe (or awl) and straight-edge.

4. Remove three hex-head machine screws, securing distributor cap to housing, using an 8mm nut driver.

5. Move distributor cap and wires off to the side.

6. Remove machine screw securing rotor to shaft, using #2 Phillips head screwdriver, and leak cover. It may be necessary to "hit" the starter once or twice, in order to rotate rotor for access to mounting screw.

7. Remove three 12mm bolts securing distributor housing to engine.

8. Remove old distributor, place on table, and remove coil, igniter, and cap seal.

9. Install old igniter, coil, leak cover, cap seal, and rotor in new distributor. Ensure female igniter terminals fit snugly--crimp with pliers, if necessary.

Ok the ICM is under the distributor and the coil is behind the distributor. They are both not in the same place

Normally, you remove the distributor cap, rotor, and leak cover. Then, you'll see the coil and the heat sink, which the ICM is attached to.

Do you have anyone helping you?

If your set-up is different, where the coil is not inside the distributor but off to the side, then it should be even easier. The ICM will still be located inside the distributor, behind the leak cover.

When I checked your 1992 Honda Accord EX, it showed the ICM and coil being inside the distributor. I know many Accords have an external coil, which sounds like your case.

Ok the ICM is under the distributor and the coil is behind the distributor. They are both not in the same place

I'm having problems getting to both the ICM and coil... I do have someone helping me and they are trying to understand how to fix this also... I'll keep trying... thanks!

The ICM should be INSIDE the distributor and the coil then is located away from the distributor. Right?

Once you see the ICM inside the distributor, you'll notice it is mounted to a heat sink on the side of the distributor. Remove the wires going to the old ICM, remove the two screws mounting the heat sink to the side of the distributor, and remove the unit. Then, remove the screws mounting the ICM to the heat sink, apply heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM, and reinstall. Your set-up is actually easier than most.

Yes but we are having problems getting to the ICM and the coil

That's about all I can do.

We changed the coil.. Woooohoooo
.. and tomorrow we Weill try to change the ICM..

Thanks for your help!

Any success?

Honda Accord fuel pump and fuel tank removal - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E5xC957OXSs)