View Full Version : My studor mini valve won't vent.
jwalke11
Dec 3, 2010, 02:14 PM
I have a studor mini vent under my sink that will not let the water drain out - water drains when I remove the vent. I tried to replace it but got the same results. Is there a something you have to do to 'activate' a studor valve? I snaked the line underneath and it is clear. Any suggestions?
ma0641
Dec 3, 2010, 02:28 PM
You don't have to activate a studor vent.. Remove the vent, clean the end and then try to suck air through it from the threaded end. If you get air, the vent is good. Can you post a diagram of the drain system, something doesn't sound right.
massplumber2008
Dec 3, 2010, 04:23 PM
Hi guys...
Yeah, you can try to clean the old studor vent or simply replace it... super cheap and super easy to do... :)
That being said, I've seen similar circumstances as you suggest and the drain line was still clogged even after replacing the vent. Here, with the vent out all was fine (as is your drain), but when even a new vent was installed with the reduced air intake the drain didn't drain properly and the drain had to be snaked again, just a little farther out. My point is to not totally rule out resnaking the drain...could still be an issue.
Cheapest bet would be to replace the studor vent and see if all is fixed. If all is not fixed, be prepared to snake the drain just a little further.
Let us know the result, OK?
Thank you...
Mark
ma0641
Dec 3, 2010, 09:01 PM
I wasn't suggesting cleaning it. I was suggesting cleaning the thread area of sealing compound and putting a negative pressure from the thread end. That will tell you if the valve is stuck
massplumber2008
Dec 4, 2010, 06:25 AM
Jeez Brian, I was actually trying to "glaze" over the fact that you actually told someone to SUCK on an old, dirty studor vent, but since you brought it up I got to tell you, I sure as heck wouldn't put anything up to my mouth from an old drain line... don't care how much you cleaned it... still loaded with all kinds of bacteria and if sucked deep into the lungs could make someone sick... ;) Double yuck!
To test the spring mechanism you should only need to push on the mechanism itself with a screwdriver or if totally enclosed you can grab it with a needlenose pliers...
In my opinion, replacing the unit is still the best and CLEANEST approach here and then they can snake the drain again if needed.. as above.
Mark
speedball1
Dec 4, 2010, 06:41 AM
After testing the AAV and finding it in working order I would began to suspect that back pressure is stopping the drain action. And what causes back pressure?
A partial blockage in the horizontal line in the wall. Remove the trap and send the snake up into the wall, (see image) You will hit a bend about 8 inches in but once past that you'll only have 6 more feet to go. Good luck, Tom