Just wondering what the basic steps required for replacing an electric water heater vs. paying Sears to install it.


I've done numerous plumbing fixes around the house, but nothing of this caliber.

Can someone help me in the basic steps and the common "gotchas"?

Some questions I had in mind :

1. Where to dispose old one?
2. How many people need to help? Light enough for one person?
3. What steps involved in the electrical hookup?

Is your existing w/h still working? If so, have everyone in the family get a shower before you start in on it. The "down time" may be greater than anticipated. If you have never attempted this before and you are determined to give it a try, you should be able to find the installation instructions for the unit you are installing online. Look them over to decide if you feel comfortable with this project.

If you get the right size tank you can replace it in about a hr. New gator bite fittings alow you to install with out sodering if you like. Just 3 wires to hook up to the electric. If you have a set of steps to go up you may want a little help other then that it can be done by yourself.

Call your town or municipality about disposal. You will likely need a hand in carrying out the old and placing the new. They can be heavy and bulky.

This turns out to be more of a plumbing job than anything else, so post on some plumbing forums. Shark bite or gator fitting are great unless you want to learn some soft solding. If you have straight copper lines replace the last few feet with flexible lines like these (http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Longevity/water-heater-preventive-maintenance.html), allowing for differences in tank size and placement. Mark down or take pics of how the old one was wired and follow the directions. If the heating elements are compatible between tanks strip them out and save to fix on that cold Christmas morning when you can't get one.

If you have any kids you will be their hero if you cut the box carefully for their fort. :)

The water heater will normally be delivered to your driveway. They will not deliver into the house.

Disposal can be made at the local metal recycling business or you can usually pay your local trash company to schedule a separate pickup with an additionally charge. Usually about $10-$15. If you take it to a scrap yard you might get a little bit of money for it.

Permits may be required.

It takes two people to move it into the house. While moving, you CANNOT lay it down on it's side. It goes without saying that you need two people to move the old one for disposal.

Electric is really simple compared to gas.

The ONLY thing to watch out for is the pipe fittings on top of the heater have a plastic insert (dip tube) that's EASILY damaged by heat. Make the sweat connection some distance away. e.g. Do not install the NPT fitting nad then sweat the pipe to the top of the fitting. Sweat a length of pipe to the NPT fitting and then solder say >4" away. You can cool the fitting if you like too with a cold rag.

NPT fittings can leak. Remember to use teflon tape and tighten about 2 1/2 turns past finger tight.

Wiring is easy as long as the wires reach.

Sometimes the flex lines will not work easily without extensive plumbing. I l.ike using 7/8 refigeration long sweep elbows if there are abrubt turns. The fittings are arranged so that a different height and spacing can easily be accomdated which is basically the purpose of the flex lines. A 7/8 REFRIGERATION FITTING
Is the same as a 3/4 plumbing fitting.