Howard718
May 26, 2009, 03:50 PM
One of my washing machine shutoff valves is leaking. I would normally fix or repair this myself, but the valves are "encased" in a washing machine hookup box and I don't know how to replace the valve with the box in place and I don't see any way to remove the box. There is no copper pipe above the holes in the box as the valve sits at the very bottom of the box.
Any advise would be helpful
Thanks
Thanks to all who responded. Attached is a rather poor picture of the washing machine shutoff valves. I am quite certain the leak (in the left valve) is actually in the brass casting itself; hence repairs such as replacing a washer, e.g. are not going to do the job. The problem I mentioned is that with the box enclosure surrounding the shutoff valve, I cannot see or determine how to remove the valve and I am learn of just putting a wrench to something I cannot see in it entirety. Again, any help is appreciated.
I tried tightening the packing nut (thanks for the directions) but this did not help. I can visibly see and also feel where the slow drip is coming from - it comes out at the back almost at the bottom of the valve and, as far as I can tell, that is solid brass, nothing to tighten at that location. That is why I suspect the brass casting itself is leaking. I do not feel any moisture around the two nuts. This is why I suspect the entire valve must be replaced rather than repaired. I am sure that I could be wrong about this but am not really sure what my alternatives would be.
See attached picture for the leak location
Thanks
Howard
I probably should have stated this initially,but the leak occurs even with the valve in the closed position. So even when I remove the hose, there is a leak at the back of the brass casing. I had put some super glue there and it had helped for a time, but not any longer.
Given all of this, what is the procedure for replacing the entire valve? Do I need to literally tear out the box to get to the valve or can the valve be removed (I don't see how because I suspect the valve is "sweated" onto copper) without damaging the box? If the box does need to be torn out, are there after market replacement boxes that can be use without messing with sheetrock?
Thanks again for all the comments and ideas
Howard
Any advise would be helpful
Thanks
Thanks to all who responded. Attached is a rather poor picture of the washing machine shutoff valves. I am quite certain the leak (in the left valve) is actually in the brass casting itself; hence repairs such as replacing a washer, e.g. are not going to do the job. The problem I mentioned is that with the box enclosure surrounding the shutoff valve, I cannot see or determine how to remove the valve and I am learn of just putting a wrench to something I cannot see in it entirety. Again, any help is appreciated.
I tried tightening the packing nut (thanks for the directions) but this did not help. I can visibly see and also feel where the slow drip is coming from - it comes out at the back almost at the bottom of the valve and, as far as I can tell, that is solid brass, nothing to tighten at that location. That is why I suspect the brass casting itself is leaking. I do not feel any moisture around the two nuts. This is why I suspect the entire valve must be replaced rather than repaired. I am sure that I could be wrong about this but am not really sure what my alternatives would be.
See attached picture for the leak location
Thanks
Howard
I probably should have stated this initially,but the leak occurs even with the valve in the closed position. So even when I remove the hose, there is a leak at the back of the brass casing. I had put some super glue there and it had helped for a time, but not any longer.
Given all of this, what is the procedure for replacing the entire valve? Do I need to literally tear out the box to get to the valve or can the valve be removed (I don't see how because I suspect the valve is "sweated" onto copper) without damaging the box? If the box does need to be torn out, are there after market replacement boxes that can be use without messing with sheetrock?
Thanks again for all the comments and ideas
Howard